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Rod bearings/main bearings recommendation?

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I like calico coating's ACL bearings. Remember if youre reusing a crank that has been ground you need thicker bearings.
 
For lightly loaded engines Aluminum bearings are better because they conform better to irregularities in the crankshaft or metal particles in the oil. And they cost less.
In heavily loaded engines (like my stroker 4G63) tri-metal bearings are better because they will withstand higher loads. And they are worth the higher price; I use ACL race bearings.

See Crankshafts and Bearings - Keeping the Relationship Strong: Engine Builder for more.
 
OEM BEARINGS!!! oh yeah one more time OEM bearings!!! :D.. nah its personal pref everyone had diff opinions :)
ACL are over rated and way too expensive.. all in all your crank shouldnt be touching your bearings LOL or your in deep S@#T. TRI METAL OR WHAT EVER!!! there are people running stock bottom ends with 150k+++miles with 400hp+ mitsu knew what they were doing trust me.:sneaky: also most of the time your clearances will be dead on if your line bore is on point (not egged) also rods/journals

BUT!!! for your build i would use OEM with the stock rods and 2g pistons also go a tiny TAD looser with your clearances if possible the factors spec is a little tight IMO
 
Will OEM bearings be good for high hp numbers? I know that they are good seeing they are OEM but are there any real benefits to running anything else?
 
LOL ACL probably manufactures Mitsu's oem bearings ^_^ Mitsubishi doesn't produce bearings .
 
I'm not building race motor persay, but I do have an HX40 to throw on and it is getting built up. My mechanic said he is going to put in OEM bearings and said he can use ACL but perfers not to use them. He mentioned that all of the motors he's built, they all used OEM and that's including Mitsu, Honda and Toyota. He aswell said Clevite is garbage and can't quite recall what he said about King.

So any real info on the OEM bearings besides being OEM. Material? HP/torque rating? etc.
 
I have used acl, king, clevite, even generic engine tech bearings in a pinch, and none of them failed. The machining of the crank, rods, and main bores is the most important part of bearings not failing.
 
So if everything is in spec with eachother, there really isn't any issue running any kind of bearing since everything rides on a film of oil? Will OEM perform the same as the tri metal with asorbing foreign material? OEM is "built to last" so it should withstand some slight abnormalities correct?
 
OEM is built to last but OEM doesn't come with 500whp and an HX40 :p .

A harder trimetal bearing is the wider one to use for heavy loading, since weaker material will deform.
 
Yes thread revival LOL. So you don't think that the OEM will last with 500hp or more potentially? What's the reasoning since what was stated above is that all bearings do the same thing of allowing a thin film of oil to be traped between the bearing and crank.
 
Yes thread revival LOL. So you don't think that the OEM will last with 500hp or more potentially? What's the reasoning since what was stated above is that all bearings do the same thing of allowing a thin film of oil to be traped between the bearing and crank.

The pressure you see on the oil gauge is the not the pressure of the film that is keeping your crankshaft supported on a film of oil the pressure of this film can deform your bearing.

Understand that a little better now?
 
So what you are saying is that if I plan to run some high numbers, I wouldn't want the tri metal as it's too soft? Don't the harder bearings cause a lot of wear though?
 
So what you are saying is that if I plan to run some high numbers, I wouldn't want the tri metal as it's too soft?


Don't the harder bearings cause a lot of wear though?

Non-Sense!



Bearings are suppose to retain their shape as best as possible at various operating loads and temperatures.
 
I know that you know what you are talking about and trying to get through, but for me it' like :banghead:. So I shouldn't use the OEM or would I be fine with them? I guess that's what I'm trying to understand. He said he's always used OEM for all his builds and they all put down some good numbers. He's currently rebuilding a new EVO and is going to use OEM in that as well.
 
I know that you know what you are talking about and trying to get through, but for me it' like :banghead:. So I shouldn't use the OEM or would I be fine with them? I guess that's what I'm trying to understand. He said he's always used OEM for all his builds and they all put down some good numbers. He's currently rebuilding a new EVO and is going to use OEM in that as well.



They aren't going to make more power they will last longer under heavy loads there is a big cost difference and a purpose for them using them is up to you.
 
I know bearings don't make power, but using the OEM will be fine and will last?
 
You're driving a street car right? OEM bearings will be fine for you for the most part.
 
Yes, DD with E316G for now. HX40 prob by March. Everything is in my mod list if that will help.
 
ACL tri-metal here. No problems.
 
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