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ECMlink Richer than Elon Musk, I think I need help!

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Dan Rittner

5+ Year Contributor
35
4
Jun 4, 2016
Sao Paulo, South_America
Hi Guys,

My car was running perfectly until it didn't.

The setup is very basic: E85, 800CC Injectors, AEM fuel pump, DSMLink, MHi Evo3 DSG, Innovate ECB-1 Wideband with boost and ethanol percentage.
It was running with 23PSI and getting 310whp.
I was flooring at the road and the boost kicked in the car lost power, it started "choking" and then popped and banged (almost like a 2-step). I took it to the shop we replaced the ignition coils, and cables, and found out the fuel pump wasn't in its best days, so we replaced it with a Walbro 450 and also cleaned and equalized the injectors.
The car is running smoothly until the boost kicks in, when it kicks it's clear the car is very rich. My guess is with the new pump there is way more fuel in, and the car chokes. My knowledge of dsmlink is pretty basic, and my turner here in Brazil retired, does anyone can help me, or show me how I can make the car leaner?

Also, turners recommendation that works remotely are welcome.
 
Check for boost leaks, then verify your base fuel pressure and that it increases 1:1 with boost.

On a side note, your choice in the thread title :barf:
 
Send a log and I'll take a look at it.
Thanks ill do it tonight.
Check for boost leaks, then verify your base fuel pressure and that it increases 1:1 with boost.

On a side note, your choice in the thread title :barf:
It seems there isnt leaks. Should increase the fuel pressure or decrease?

About the title, its just a joķe I dont care about him
 
Validating that your fuel pressure rises 1:1 with boost will require you to be able to monitor fuel pressure remotely. That's on my list this year, but to do it safely requires getting a fuel pressure sensor and plumbing it into your line before the AFPR as well as using one of your ECU's 5v sensor inputs.
Unsafely, you could run a mechanical inside your car or snag a gauge under the wiper blade, but looking at the FP gauge AND the boost gauge at the same time whilst driving is dangerous and not recommended.

Are you MAF or SD?
 
Validating that your fuel pressure rises 1:1 with boost will require you to be able to monitor fuel pressure remotely. That's on my list this year, but to do it safely requires getting a fuel pressure sensor and plumbing it into your line before the AFPR as well as using one of your ECU's 5v sensor inputs.
Unsafely, you could run a mechanical inside your car or snag a gauge under the wiper blade, but looking at the FP gauge AND the boost gauge at the same time whilst driving is dangerous and not recommended.

Are you MAF or SD?
Im running on MAF. Does the dsmlink show the fuel pressure when recordong a log?
 
It seems there isnt leaks.
Do a proper boost leak test then you won't have to speculate.

Validating that your fuel pressure rises 1:1 with boost will require you to be able to monitor fuel pressure remotely.
Use ECMlink to turn on the fuel pump with the engine off, then boost leak test. Verify how much air pressure you're adding, then calculate base fuel pressure + BLT pressure. So if base FP for a 2g is 43.5psi, and you BLT at 20psi, you should see 63.5psi of FP.
 
Im running on MAF. Does the dsmlink show the fuel pressure when recordong a log?
Not without adding a sensor to the mix, potentially using a 1/4" NPT takeoff somewhere on your feed line up to the AFPR, and then having that sensor record the value to ECMlink using one of the 5v sensor inputs that work with the sensor. There's more on a 2g ecu, as you would have, with that really fun baro one that likely will need some soldering work.

Use ECMlink to turn on the fuel pump with the engine off, then boost leak test. Verify how much air pressure you're adding, then calculate base fuel pressure + BLT pressure. So if base FP for a 2g is 43.5psi, and you BLT at 20psi, you should see 63.5psi of FP.

but that's speculation, not verification. To verify, as you said "then verify your base fuel pressure and that it increases 1:1 with boost.", you'd need to actually see and/or record those values. You can't do that just by mathing it
 
Fuel pump change should not change fuel pressure if the fuel pressure regulator is working correctly. That being said i see you put a 450 in, but as i recall only the awd need's the syphon mod done to bring fuel pressure down i don't recall the fwd needing it. You should be able to connect with link turn on fuel pump and look at a fuel pressure gauge and confirm what fuel pressure is. You can post a log and i can also take a look.
 
Still better than guessing or running a fuel line into the cabin.
That is guessing, though, guessing if your afor is actually working. Taking your base pressure and just adding your boost pressure doesn't tell you if your afpr is operating correctly.
If your afpr isn't rising at 1:1 you wouldn't know unless you can physically read the pressure via a sensor or gauge. The latter being most dangerous whilst driving.
And, agreed, you should never run fuel into the cabin.
 
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