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ECMlink RICH AFR Issues

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Michael Wucher

Proven Member
52
11
Apr 19, 2020
Norfolk, Virginia
Recently I've been having issues with my AFR's. I used to have my AEM X series wideband on the rear 02 and stock 02 up front. I noticed that the car smelled really rich on idle and thought maybe the front o2 was burnt out so I decided to move AEM wideband up front and connect it to ecu. On idle I'm reading anywhere from 11-12.5 cruising 10-11.5. Most recently its been giving me this weird issue of just completely flooding out. I'll be driving along and AFR will spike flat 8 and car will lose responsiveness and begin to decell. When I put the clutch in, it will stall. I can throw it back in gear and pop clutch and it will start back up. Once I determined that it wasn't 02 sensor that was causing the issue, I thought maybe my map sensor was the issue (omni 4 bar gm style) it wasn't showing correct boost and was showing higher #'s than I was actually boosting on ecmlink. I ordered an Omni 5 bar map that goes in place of the stock MDP sensor. I put it in today and noticed that Ecmlink doesn't give the option for the omni 5 bar, only the 4 bar (not sure if that's an issue?). I checked my FPR and it's set at 43psi so that shouldn't be an issue. Currently waiting on a tune so I'm trying to get this issue sorted quickly. I'm truly stumped so any feedback / help would be truly appreciated.

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You can’t run the 5 bar with the 4 bar selected, the voltages will be off for the sensor to read correctly. Just buy a replacement 4 bar if that’s what you were running before.

If you plan to run the 5, I believe you can manual enter in the voltages for that sensor to make it read but I am not sure what those are.
 
Change your tune. Its obviously too rich.
Do you do any tuning with ECMlink? If so, just change the global fuel to a more negative number and save changes. Watch the afr gauge, it should move towards stoich and would love the adjustment to have it idle there. Just a comment/suggestion.
 
I hadn't been having these problems until just recently. Pretty sure it was coming from the MAP sensor being faulty. I just installed a 5 bar omni but I'm struggling to try and get it set up
 
I hadn't been having these problems until just recently. Pretty sure it was coming from the MAP sensor being faulty. I just installed a 5 bar omni but I'm struggling to try and get it set up
Is there a reason you want to run the 5 bar over the 4 bar? Are you over 42psi of boost? If not, would be far easier to just grab a 4 bar and use the drop down in Link to set it up. Once that’s done, do what is recommended above and change the tune to get the car to lean out.

There have been people who have a problem getting the 5 bar sensors to read accurately and some have great success. If you don’t need the 5 bar, I would avoid the headaches and grab a 4 bar.
 
@Michael Wucher instead of taking screen shots of your laptop you can attach a log file to your post and we can see every tab to make sure your settings are correct. You paid for ECMLink, you might as well take full advantage of it and post the log so others can help too. Looking at screenshots only gives us a very small picture into what's going on with the car.
 
@Michael Wucher instead of taking screen shots of your laptop you can attach a log file to your post and we can see every tab to make sure your settings are correct. You paid for ECMLink, you might as well take full advantage of it and post the log so others can help too. Looking at screenshots only gives us a very small picture into what's going on with the car.
I'll take a log when I go for a drive later this evening and post it up tonight. Thank you
 
Here are the logs. The first one is when I first started car and it was idling. Second log is driving
@Michael Wucher instead of taking screen shots of your laptop you can attach a log file to your post and we can see every tab to make sure your settings are correct. You paid for ECMLink, you might as well take full advantage of it and post the log so others can help too. Looking at screenshots only gives us a very small picture into what's going on with the car.
 

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Looking at the 2nd driving log, the ECU is pulling a lot of fuel out. What size of injectors are you running and what brand? It looks like the injectors are not scaled correctly, as I see the short term and long term fuel trims pulling fuel. I like to see them within +-5%.
Your global fuel is set to -53.1, as a test, put in -55.1 and watch your WB. It "should" move more lean with that adjustment. If it goes too lean, try -54.1 in the global fuel tab. Take another drive or idle log and lets see what she likes and doesn't like. Just my .02¢, but I'm trying to help.
If you had a vehicle profile filled out, we wouldn't have to guess at what the car has in it, just FYI.
 
Looking at the 2nd driving log, the ECU is pulling a lot of fuel out. What size of injectors are you running and what brand? It looks like the injectors are not scaled correctly, as I see the short term and long term fuel trims pulling fuel. I like to see them within +-5%.
Your global fuel is set to -53.1, as a test, put in -55.1 and watch your WB. It "should" move more lean with that adjustment. If it goes too lean, try -54.1 in the global fuel tab. Take another drive or idle log and lets see what she likes and doesn't like. Just my .02¢, but I'm trying to help.
If you had a vehicle profile filled out, we wouldn't have to guess at what the car has in it, just FYI.
Thank you for the input. I’ll set up my car profile build later this evening. Car is running 950cc FIC injectors. It’s weird because the last 3 days the car had been running super rich AFR and that log that I posted they were kind of normal but at some point it was hitting fuel cuts
 
Looking at the 2nd driving log, the ECU is pulling a lot of fuel out. What size of injectors are you running and what brand? It looks like the injectors are not scaled correctly, as I see the short term and long term fuel trims pulling fuel. I like to see them within +-5%.
Your global fuel is set to -53.1, as a test, put in -55.1 and watch your WB. It "should" move more lean with that adjustment. If it goes too lean, try -54.1 in the global fuel tab. Take another drive or idle log and lets see what she likes and doesn't like. Just my .02¢, but I'm trying to help.
If you had a vehicle profile filled out, we wouldn't have to guess at what the car has in it, just FYI.
Here, are some more logs. First one is IDLE, I was adjusting ISC so its a bit long. Not sure why but when I hit the throttle, it hesitates and then revs up. You can notice this by scrolling through and looking at TPS & AEM X WB. Any help correcting this issue would be greatly appreciated, as its very annoying. I also tried your recommended global fuel settings. Second log is a quick drive up the road, same issues. Car goes lean at a certain TPS point
 

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  • log.2022.05.26-03.elg
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  • log.2022.05.26-02.elg
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Increasing "tip in" values helps. It acts kind of like an accelerator pump on a carb as it tries to richen up the mix when you mash the gas. Sometimes tho its because the tune just isn't correct.
Is your O2 sensor calibrated or are you on a stock one?
Sorry, forgot you said AEM. As long as it is calibrated correctly, then I should notice it in a log, I just wasn't looking for that issue. I'll look later on the computer.
 
Increasing "tip in" values helps. It acts kind of like an accelerator pump on a carb as it tries to richen up the mix when you mash the gas. Sometimes tho its because the tune just isn't correct.
Is your O2 sensor calibrated or are you on a stock one?
Sorry, forgot you said AEM. As long as it is calibrated correctly, then I should notice it in a log, I just wasn't looking for that issue. I'll look later on the computer.
ill have to try this tomorrow. Thanks!!
 
I don't think it's a tip-in issue from looking at tps delta.
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I would verify the switch point for NBO2 is correct. Then look into possible a sticking/stuck injector(s). It looks like it's not holding a steady idle either. Needs a tune :)
 
I am looking at the 2nd idle log, the most recent, and you need to change a value in your MaxTiming table. It is screwing around with the way the car is bouncing around. Also, is there a reason you need to idle so high?
The ONE box that has 10* in it needs to be changed, IMO, to smooth out the idle timing. Change it to 15 or 16*. Does anyone else see issues? I looked at the VE table and boy, it sure looks like the global scaling is off to me, but if its running and you like it, leave it alone.
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I don't think it's a tip-in issue from looking at tps delta.
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I would verify the switch point for NBO2 is correct. Then look into possible a sticking/stuck injector(s). It looks like it's not holding a steady idle either. Needs a tune :)
Is NB02 sim needed? Im using the default settings for it
 
I am looking at the 2nd idle log, the most recent, and you need to change a value in your MaxTiming table. It is screwing around with the way the car is bouncing around. Also, is there a reason you need to idle so high?
The ONE box that has 10* in it needs to be changed, IMO, to smooth out the idle timing. Change it to 15 or 16*. Does anyone else see issues? I looked at the VE table and boy, it sure looks like the global scaling is off to me, but if its running and you like it, leave it alone.
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I have idle set to around 1100 I believe. I set it that high because it doesn't like to idle very well at lower rpms. Now that I have put in a new ISC motor, I might try and lower idle
 
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Using NBO2 uses the output signal (0-1v) from your wideband to control fuel in closedloop operation (14.7). It’s important to have the correct switch point so you can achieve proper afr. Look up the correct switch point for the wideband you’re using. Basically you’re using the wb to do this instead of the stock front O2 sensor. You can use either or. I personally like using the stock front o2 in case the wb sensor goes bad which does happen.
 
Using NBO2 uses the output signal (0-1v) from your wideband to control fuel in closedloop operation (14.7). It’s important to have the correct switch point so you can achieve proper afr. Look up the correct switch point for the wideband you’re using. Basically you’re using the wb to do this instead of the stock front O2 sensor. You can use either or. I personally like using the stock front o2 in case the wb sensor goes bad which does happen.
So would this be the switch point, or close to it? Looking at the table for 3V. Might need to be a bit higher than that but I could play with it

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So would this be the switch point, or close to it? Looking at the table for 3V. Might need to be a bit higher than that but I could play with it

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You should be fine where it's at now, 3.16v. @Michael Wucher is your map sensor reading correctly now? If it's having issues idling, that means there's something wrong. This needs to be fixed before tuning. I see the throttle% and tps needs adjusted. Lets start here. TPS should be .63 at 0% and 5V at WOT. Then lower the idle cells in VE table to bring airflowperrev to .25ish

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You should be fine where it's at now, 3.16v. @Michael Wucher is your map sensor reading correctly now? If it's having issues idling, that means there's something wrong. This needs to be fixed before tuning. I see the throttle% and tps needs adjusted. Lets start here. TPS should be .63 at 0% and 5V at WOT. Then lower the idle cells in VE table to bring airflowperrev to .25ish

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Map sensor is reading good! Ill have to play with the tps tomorrow and getting that set up. Ill reply back with the progress. Thank you!
 
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