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1G Rewiring car completely

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BerettaDan

10+ Year Contributor
45
7
Jun 19, 2009
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
So my car was flooded and completely under water. I have the entire interior striped out and am looking to do full race car wiring and eliminate everything not needed. Just looking for people that have already done this. I want to use a painless style universal chassis harness ,thin out the engine harness and get rid of the factory fuse boxes etc. I watched videos and have been reviewing the manual.
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In this video he makes it very simple. I would like to keep dsmlink so I would have to add that connector. I guess my question is is it really that simple and have any of you guys had luck with the universal chassis harnesses on the market.
 
I want to keep it street legal for the occasional cruise. I want to use something like this.. I want headlights, taillights,flashers, wipers and maybe keep power windows. From the videos I wanted you only need to power a few wires to get the motor running. And I might run the fuel pump and ignition on separate relays and toggle switches. I would like to use the factory column switches for headlight and flashers.
Painless Performance 10102 Classic Customizable Chassis Harness, Key in Dash, 21 Circuits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B3UF0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_METDMR44N96C43HKSCPK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

VOWAGH Universal Extra Long Wires 21 Circuit Wiring Harness Hotrod Fit for GM Chevy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085MFS4PP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0TDJN61QXBQDEEKMR7EB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
rewiring the entire car would be such a pain in the ass.
Any of the connectors that you can't find a replacement for would need to be depinned so you can reuse them.
Then you would have to crimp new ends (and seals on exterior/engine wires) on all the wires.
That would mean you would need to find out all the different kinds of terminals (ends) used for each connector.
You would also need the specific style of terminal crimper.

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There are vendors that will do a full engine harness cheaply for around $450-600. Ohm racing is about $1100ish. I would just pay to have it done right. The last thing you want is a bunch of weird intermittent electrical problems because you didn't crimp something right or used the wrong gauge wire etc.
 
Or you can put whatever you want wherever you want. The only things that will be specific in terms of keeping it street legal are the engine connectors due to the sensors. Everything else can be pinned differently if you check out sites like Digikey, Wirecare, Waytek Wire, and Mouser.

I say this because I am building my harness from scratch, plus you have the benefit of putting things where you want it... but as stated before this process is not for the faint of heart.

Tools to look for: check Wire care for decent crimpers, JRready is a decent sub for DMC which is astronomically expensive...

If you do go this route, find the OEM FSM as a reference for wire sizes, configurations, and locations. I have a a folder on the computer dedicated to just this, a lot of info because wiring right the first time is key.
 
rewiring the entire car would be such a pain in the ass.
Any of the connectors that you can't find a replacement for would need to be depinned so you can reuse them.
Then you would have to crimp new ends (and seals on exterior/engine wires) on all the wires.
That would mean you would need to find out all the different kinds of terminals (ends) used for each connector.
You would also need the specific style of terminal crimper.

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The easy way to do this is cut the OEM connectors off your factory harness and make short jumper harnesses to something like a Deutsch DTM connector. This way you don't have to do any of that mumbo jumbo and you have a more servicable harness should anything happen to it.

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To the OP: I've done this. I would suggest you stay away from painless, only because they use heavy gauge wire meant for hot rods that have hotside switched devices. Also their fuseboxes are bulky and nothing special. You can use Cooper Bussmann sealed fuseboxes, which are awesome.

My advice? Take the time to plan, plan, plan. Most people run into issues when they forget a device or a component and they have to start modifying the harness when it's already half built. There's also no reason you need to use the factory MPI relay or even the factory way of doing things if you don't want. Plenty of smaller, lighter ways to wire the car if you're starting from scratch.
 
Thanks for the advice. I have been carefully going through the chassis harness and eliminating what I don't want. I have ordered relays, universal fuse block and a few other things I will update with pics when I get a chance
 
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