[RESOLVED] multiple cylinder misfire

[srtkiller]

I am getting a multiple cylinder misfire code and I can't figure out what's going on. I replaced the plugs and wires also checked the coils it is getting a very strong spark to the wires. Also when I plugged it in the code reader it shows the timing was bouncing between 4 degrees and all the way up to 19 degrees. The idle is very rough and my wideband bounces from very rich to lean. I have also done a boost leak test. I really need some help I can't figure this out. Thanks

 

[srtkiller]

Not if he uses ECU+. You do not need the translator with that program.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I was talking about with Dsmlink. Notice I said "wait for V3 of Dsmlink".

 

[Artago]

I was talking about with Dsmlink. Notice I said "wait for V3 of Dsmlink".

I'd love to wait for DSMlink V3 but I honestly believe the second coming of Jesus will come before V3 releases.


I'm in no rush so I'll wait for now. I also looked into ECU+ but I'm not convinced yet. I have a EPROM so I think I'll just stick with the old tried and tested DSMlink.

 

[Artago]

Well it looks like a spoke too soon. I just threw the P0300 code today. It was fine for like 4 days and then I started my car up after work and it sounded like it was firing on 3 cylinders and immediately threw the P0300. I'll monitor it for a while and post back. If it keeps coming back then I'll try a MAF swap.

Tom

 

[srtkiller]

I would bet it is the maf. Last night after some spirited driving the honeycomb in mine came loose again and it started running like garbage. I pulled over and and put it back in place and all was fine again. Not saying that it's the honeycomb in your but it very well could be the maf on it's way out.

 

[Artago]

I would bet it is the maf. Last night after some spirited driving the honeycomb in mine came loose again and it started running like garbage. I pulled over and and put it back in place and all was fine again. Not saying that it's the honeycomb in your but it very well could be the maf on it's way out.

Yeah I think so too. I looked into getting a stock MAF replacement somewhere and the best deal I could find is like $250 for a REMAN unit from Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto . So I figure for that kind of money I might as well throw in a little extra and get the MAFT / GM MAF kit from Welcome To Extreme PSI . It's a little more but I get a blow through setup that flows better and as a added bonus I don't have to worry about pre-MAF boost leaks.

Here is what I was thinking of getting.
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - MAF Translator Kit: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99
The kit with a 3.5" MAF is $ 325.95. Does anyone know why the 3.5" MAF is cheaper then the 3.0" version? Is there any advantage to the 3.0"? Or should I just get the 3.5" because it's cheaper and larger?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[thorlief4g63]

The 3.5 will be better if you have 2.5 inch intercooler pipes or bigger. I added a 3.5 after a 3 and I noticed a power difference, much more air can flow.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I added a 3.5 after a 3 and I noticed a power difference, much more air can flow.

Its all in your head. The only way you would feel a difference is if you were overrunning the 3" maf. Your not adding much more flow capability with the 3.5" over the 3". You are just making it where the maf can read more airflow which means you can push more lb/min with your setup.

 

[Artago]

Its all in your head. The only way you would feel a difference is if you were overrunning the 3" maf. Your not adding much more flow capability with the 3.5" over the 3". You are just making it where the maf can read more airflow which means you can push more lb/min with your setup.

Ok I get that the 3.5 isn't much better (air flow wise) than the 3.0 .. but the 3.5 is cheaper. So I was going to buy it because it saves me a few bucks. All I want to know is if there is any DISADVANTAGE to getting the 3.5 vs the 3.0.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[1992awdlaser]

Ok I get that the 3.5 isn't much better (air flow wise) than the 3.0 .. but the 3.5 is cheaper. So I was going to buy it because it saves me a few bucks. All I want to know is if there is any DISADVANTAGE to getting the 3.5 vs the 3.0.

Thanks,

Tom

No there won't be any disadvantage.

 

[ranger2339]

I would like to know that same question? Also why is the 3.5" cheaper?

 

[1992awdlaser]

Read my post before yours about the answer. I have no idea why the 3.5" is cheaper you will have to contact the manufacture for that information.

 

[Artago]

No there won't be any disadvantage.

Thanks.

That's what I wanted to know.

Tom

 

[tonydl]

I used NGK BPR6ES plugs and I gapped them at .28. It kind of started out of nowhere one morning I started the car and it was running like crap it was very rich. When I got home I did a boost leak test and found two small leaks I fixed them and checked again everything was perfect. It was still not perfect and it was about time for a spark plug change and oil change so I used the seafoam then changed the plugs and oil and the car ran perfect. Then one day I was on my way to parts store (go figure) and I got into the throttle pretty hard and then when I got to a stop light all of this started just came back out of nowhere. When I got home I did another boost leak test and everything is just fine. The car has a very rough idle and is pretty hesitant under light throttle it almost feels like there is a flat spot in the signal from the tps but I am not getting a code for it and it is not showing a voltage drop. Also when you say cas do you mean cam or crank angle,

Hey there new to the group,but i have had this issue before as well,but mine did end up being one of my spark plug wires,it arked out and burned a small hole through the wall of my plugs...but i am suffering from this notorious code also i have noticed after clearing my code with a cheapy scaner it ends up coming back on around the 700 rpm range so idk i have little to work with and have dumped way to much money into my 97 spyder gst for it to still be a pain !good luck and im following!

 

[tonydl]

I just though since nobody else has posted a resolve to this problem I would be kind enough to. I finally gave in and took it to the Mitsubishi dealer by my work and I got a call back about a two hours later. The front honeycomb in the maf somehow came loose fell into the filter then when I got on the gas again it got sucked back into the sensor and lodged itself in there crooked so it was not reading properly. So the tech who also owns a very nice dsm put the honeycomb back in as a temporary fix and now the car runs perfect although it is temporary I guess it's just time for a gm maf setup I call it a good excuse.

I think this is great because how strange right heck yeah though and im reading this late but oh well haha.

 

[ShadyDoins]

Well if you decide to go with a gm maf, v3 came out about 12 years ago so your good on the tuning issue...