The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

1G Replace rear sway bar links on AWD?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

XC92

Proven Member
1,573
362
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
Once I'm done rebuilding the trans on my '92 Talon TSi AWD manual and take care of clutch and shifter slop issues, I intend to swap out some rear end suspension parts, specifically all 4 ball joints, the sway bar links and the sway bar and control arm bushings (I already rebuilt the strut assemblies recently). When I did this on the front end last year, the sway bar links were shot and I had to cut them off and replace them, with Moogs. I assume that I'll encounter a similar situation in the rear, and even if not it seems like good practice to replace them after 29 years.

Thing is, it doesn't appear that Moog makes them anymore. They're still listed as available from some vendors, like RTM Racing, but I'm guessing that they're old stock. I don't know if that matters though. The alternative (other than not replacing them) is to go with Mevotechs. Are those OK for this application, or should I go with the apparently discontinued Moogs? The Moogs are a bit more expensive, but not prohibitively so, $50 vs. $20.

Any reason not many aftermarket outfits make this particular part? Does it not fail as often as the fronts or other parts?
 
Last edited:
MAS is the only other manufacturer I was able to find at this time with both the bushing and bolt with endlink
MAS SL68025 {#MB584467, MR131733}

Moog only make the bushings now. My experience Moog has gone down in quality over the past 10 years. I would think you would be fine with Mevotechs units. Its slim pickings that might be you only option for a new parts right now.

The only alternative for both is to purchase aftermarket lower control arms with provisions for endlink, but they are a pretty penny.
https://volkmetalcraft.com/product/1g-rear-lower-control-arms/

Any reason not many aftermarket outfits make this particular part? Does it not fail as often as the fronts or other parts?
Companies go where the money is, the front endlinks are used on a bunch of Mitus, turbo and non turbo, FWD and AWD. Only the AWD models use these rear link/ends. So that is a significantly larger market. Nothing will be like OEM quality, but there are a few manufactures that meet that standard.
 
Last edited:
The MEVOTECH MS80812 at RockAuto will work for you. I really need to get some myself.
 
I haven't taken anything apart in the rear yet so for all I know the original ones are still ok. But most likely the ball joint is worn and slack and it's just $9 per so might as well.

I thoroughly cleaned, derusted and painted everything in the rear last year but didn't take anything out because it would have required an alignment and I wanted to put that off till I also did the front and some other stuff. The other stuff's been done so it's time.
 
Yea, I need a alignment as soon as I get the car running correctly. I put all new A arms, tie rod ends and front sway bar links in when I did my transmission swap, so I should go ahead and put those on the rear before I do that myself.
 
When I'm done I'll pretty much have redone the entire suspension. I'm keeping all the control arms and both sway bars as they're fine. Just cleaning up, derusting and paint to make them pretty and last longer. But all the BJ's, bushings, links, inner/outer tie rods, etc., have been or will be replaced. Even some bolts and nuts per the FSM. Of course this requires everything to be taken off and reinstalled, which requires a 4 wheel alignment. I was way overdue for one anyway so this works out. Damn, when I'm done, I'll essentially have a new car!
 
I've got some updated information on these link connectors. I did some more searching and it looks like Moog might still make them, but "officially" they're not for DSMs, at least 1G AWDs.

Here's how I found out.

RTM Racing sells them, but under their own part #, 1K-A906M-SwayBarEndLink-1gARear:


JNZ Tuning also sells them, under Moog's part #, K80877:


Moog itself sells them, under the same product #, but doesn't list DSMs under fitment:


And just to confirm with other vendors, RockAuto also sells them, but also officially not for DSMs:


Also a very well-known online vendor that this site doesn't support or allow posting links to (ask me how I know). And I'm only mentioning this here as further confirmation that this Moog part exists and is presumably still available, not necessarily to encourage folks to shop there.

Pretty much everyone who sells them has them at around $22-$26 per, except RockAuto at $10.40 and that other site for a bit more. Weird though that only the specialty sites "officially" sell them for DSMs, e.g. RTM & JNZ. Not sure why Moog itself doesn't list them under fitment for DSMs.

Well, "official" DSMs at least. It does list them for Stealths (and thus 3000GTs), which are "basically" DSMs too even if officially they're not, or at least part of the DSM "extended family" and which I've always viewed as our DSMs' "big brother". (Note, not trying to revive that old debate.)

However, the OEM part # for this part is MB584467, which is listed on the RockAuto product page under Alternate/OEM Part Number(s), which appears to be further confirmation that this part does in fact fit in 1G DSM AWDs. If anyone knows more or otherwise, feel free to chime in.
 
Last edited:
Beck Arnley beckarnley-101-4519 is an alternate part number for the same part, just their brand. I have found them as reasonable as $13.99 + S/H
 
Comparing the 2 AM parts the Moog looks slightly nicer than the BA. A bit more nut surface to grab onto on the long stud since it's a 2-wrench job, reusable flange nuts instead of nylon locknuts, nicer-looking seal, etc. In practice it probably doesn't matter though, I'm guessing.
 
All in what you prefer. I was hunting for the most economical ones. Moog has been a brand name for suspension parts since I sold parts in 1978ish so I do trust them. BA is also a brand name but I don't expect OEM quality, (but close).
 
Well the Moogs are a few bucks cheaper on RA, so more reason to get it. And back in '78 I couldn't drive yet and riding my first road bike, and Moog was an organ maker. ;)
 
The "good ole days" :thumb:
 
I also flew RC planes back then, way before drones became a thing. Or tried to. Never quite got the hang of it so I moved onto other things. But maintaining my bikes definitely prepped me for fixing my cars. Same attention to detail and respect for tools and precision.
 
I never got my RC plane off the ground without wrecking it. I DID fly it but had another man get it up in the air. It was fun......then it ran out of gas :oops:
I handed the remote over to the man (I was only about 16 at the time) and he put her in a steep dive (oh no) and then leveled her out and landed her about 6 feet away and was upset that it didn't just roll right up to him. Later that day, I saw him plow his plane straight into the ground because he couldn't tell if it was rightside up or upside down and he picked the wrong one.
Never forget that!
 
I got my moog from advanced auto a year ago, i did it wheni replaced my rear end stuff with new stuff, or bushings sway bark links
 
I did something a little different. I made a bracket to the trailing arm and attached the sway bar link to the trailing arm. I made the link from 2 3/8 hiem joint with a small center sleeve to adjust the needed length
 
Here is another easy option. These are from a 1994 Nissan Sentra (Front links).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You just bench grind the Sentra one to the OEM height as pictured.'' OEM on the left/ Sentra on the right.
 
Just a note:

The Moog, Whiteline, Febest, MEVOTECH etc. rear links all differ from the actual OEM unit. With a stock sway bar, this doesn't seem to cause any ill effect, however, with a larger, aftermarket bar, it can cause the bar to hit the rear trailing arm.

Look at the difference between the OEM (left) and the Moog, etc. (right). ***PLEASE NOTE THAT THE PICTURES ARE **NOT** TO SCALE*** The center line of joint to the bottom of the "nut" that holds it above the lower control arm is much higher on the aftermarket units:

I'll often use the aftermarket ones on cars with stock swaybars, but I almost always use the OEM ones with larger, aftermarket bars.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Pretty much everything's stock on the car including both sway bars and will almost certainly stay that way so this isn't a concern. I'm more concerned about quality. If I ever sell the car and they want to upgrade the sway bar, they'll have to figure out what to do.
 
Pretty much everything's stock on the car including both sway bars and will almost certainly stay that way so this isn't a concern. I'm more concerned about quality. If I ever sell the car and they want to upgrade the sway bar, they'll have to figure out what to do.
At that point, just go with an aftermarket set.

They don't last nearly as long as the OEM units, but you can also replace them twice for around the same cost as OEM.
 
I'm replacing the rear ball joints, which officially can't be replaced so there's no OEM version and you have to replace the entire control arms (which I'm not going to do), with Moogs, so I figured might as well go with Moog on the links too. It's what I did on the fronts last year and it seems to have worked out ok for my situation.

Oh, and I just realized who you are! :) Been juggling a bunch of things and didn't pay attention. Thanks for the quick response on that parts list and looks like I'm going to have to wait on some things from Japan.
 
I'm replacing the rear ball joints, which officially can't be replaced so there's no OEM version and you have to replace the entire control arms (which I'm not going to do), with Moogs, so I figured might as well go with Moog on the links too. It's what I did on the fronts last year and it seems to have worked out ok for my situation.

Oh, and I just realized who you are! :) Been juggling a bunch of things and didn't pay attention. Thanks for the quick response on that parts list and looks like I'm going to have to wait on some things from Japan.
No ball joints on these cars can be "officially" replaced. The closest we came to that was being able to get the Sigma front ball joints back in the 90's. Those are long gone.

That said, all three ball joints are the same--Front, Rear Upper, Rear Lower: https://jnztuning.com/product/moog-ball-joint-1g-dsm/ (see description at bottom as to where they fit)
 
Well, I used a "deluxe" ball joint press kit from Advance Auto as a loaner to replace the fronts last year with Moogs, and it went pretty smoothly. This is what I was intending to do on the rears, with the exact same BJs. Not enough miles put on the car since I did this but it felt and handled fine afterwards.
 
Your original post mentioned Mevotech. I purchased their (front) lower control arms for my car, and they weren't even the right dimensions. Perhaps this is one of those "peculiar to 1990" things, but the replacement control arms only half-way made it into the rear mounting straps. It would have perhaps seemed OK for some home mechanics to run them this way, but to me it looked like suicide. I restored my old factory parts, primer/paint/new rubber, and re-used them. I used the dust boots off the mevotechs to save time from re-ordering others, and junked the remainder of those brand new parts (~$60 ea.!!). So that's my mevotech story. Perhaps a fluke, maybe everyone else is totally happy with them. That's all I'll say.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top