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Repairing knock sensor wiring

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thebrownman1

5+ Year Contributor
59
60
Feb 17, 2015
Medicine Hat, AB_Canada
Bros,

I'm currently in the midst of a maintenance and upgrade blitz. One of my tasks is to replace the knock sensor because I was getting a ton of phantom knock and I want to fix it instead of trucking the ecu in link.

So I didn't realize this when I was installing the engine because I'm still somewhat of a noob but the previous owner destroyed the connector on the harness and hard wired it in all willy nilly.

The under the brown insulation on the engine harness are a white wire that has another braided wire around it. It's really half assed so I want to fix it right. How do I go about this? Should I just pull more of the braided wire out, solder and heat shrink it to black on the pigtail?

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It's a shielded cable with the signal carried on the inner wire and the outer braid is grounded.
Try locating some shielded microphone cable and use that.
 
Is there a technique to soldering the braided line? It gets pretty frayed after its cut.

Follow up question. If the braid is a ground, would grounding it to the firewall be just as effective?
 
If the braid is tinned copper you can solder it but if it's aluminum crimping is pretty much the only option. Looks like they soldered it before.
 
Your car will love you for paying attention to her! Glad to see Steve helping you make an informed decision. I deem that sensor an engine saver myself.
 
Your car will love you for paying attention to her! Glad to see Steve helping you make an informed decision. I deem that sensor an engine saver myself.
Thanks! I'm currently getting help rebuilding my transmission from a friend that lives nearby so I figured I would tackle a long list of to-dos while its down. Having the transmission out of they makes access so much easier. It's also getting 1000cc injectors and an FP68.

I re soldered the connection following a tutorial on YouTube and put some head shrink around it. Hopefully this alleviates my issues.
 
I think it turned out fine although I wont be able to test until it's back together. Steve suggested using microphone wire since this shielded so followed this one:
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