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Spyder repair/replace list for 20+ yr dsm

Jays99Spyder

Proven Member
165
57
Feb 22, 2020
Waukegan, Illinois
I´m currently trying to bring my dsm back to life and taking a step back on my mod list. The car is over 20 years old and at this point when I do get her running again I would like her to stay that way. To be honest at this point in my life I will take reliability over performance, so that being said, this is my question. Is there a list of parts that should be replace on tuners? For example I want to place all hoses, so maybe a list of all hoses and sizes(do they make replacement hose kits?). I plan on doing the fuel filter and maybe using braided hoses for the fuel system also. I know I am missing a lot so if someone could help me out with this or point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it.
 

Mello

15+ Year Contributor
1,457
605
Jul 4, 2003
Albuquerque, New_Mexico
I'm kind of in the middle of this same project. My throw out bearing failed last March (almost a year now) & it was a oily, greasy mess while dropping the tranny. Everything rubber or plastic was all deteriorated so I decided to "bite the bullet" and am now finishing up taking everything I could access without pulling the engine, disassemble, clean, inspected, & rebuild. So far this is all CV joint, propeller shaft, the entire power steering rack & hoses, tie rods inner & outer (I did the suspession busings a few years back), tranny & transfer case seals, engine seals rear & front, valve stem seals & valve cover, oil pan, redoing a lot of the wire looming especially those near high heat sources; then move onto the cooling system.

My suggestion is basically if it not metal & is sealing, rubber or plastic, replace.
 
Last edited:

Jays99Spyder

Proven Member
165
57
Feb 22, 2020
Waukegan, Illinois
I'm kind of in the middle of this same project. My throw out bearing failed last March (almost a year now) & it was a oily, greasy mess while dropping the tranny. Everything rubber or plastic was all deteriorated so I decided to "bite the bullet" and am now finishing up taking everything I could access without pulling the engine, disassemble, clean, inspected, & rebuild. So far this is all CV joint, propeller shaft, the entire power steering rack & hoses, tie rods inner & outer (I did the suspession busings a few years back), tranny & transfer case seals, engine seals rear & front, valve stem seals & valve cover, oil pan, redoing a lot of the wire looming especially those near high heat sources; then move onto the cooling system.

My suggestion is basically if it not metal & is sealing, rubber or plastic, replace.
I could not agree more and you have me thinking about stuff I wasn´t before. It´s not a good feeling when your going for a cruse then something breaks and you have to get it towed home.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,189
2,760
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
I don't know any "kits". These used to be some but it was more of a dress up kit. Most hoses that aren't small vac lines are molded and proprietary so you just order accordingly. Rad hoses, heater hoses, turbo coolant etc. If memory serves there are 10 coolant hoses?
Gaskets and seals are as needed but definitely if you have a major component apart address those areas. For instance doing a trans drop change the rear main and at least inspect suspension, cv axles etc. at that time.
 

iugrad92turbo

Supporting Member
12,913
838
May 22, 2007
Kalamazoo, Michigan
Lots of things for our cars i learned to piece together from what ever sources you can. General mainteance as with most vehicles, go through everything in doubt like i do. I always start from scratch with a car new to you, ive touched every nut and bolt on my vehicle under the car and literally took it down to a shell. And replaced everything i could from bushings throughout the entire car.
 

Jays99Spyder

Proven Member
165
57
Feb 22, 2020
Waukegan, Illinois
Best advice I have is take your time (patience), take things one at a time, do it right, & no short cuts or skimping allowed.
Patience for sure. I cheaped out on headstuds on the first build and it cost me. Granted I didn't know any better at the time but I definitely learned one thing, if you have to do something do it right the first time and don't cut corners.
 

Jays99Spyder

Proven Member
165
57
Feb 22, 2020
Waukegan, Illinois
I think I'm going to make a list and tackle one thing at a time. I'm thinking this will help me in two ways.. One, it will allow me to focus one one thing at a time so I don't get overwhelmed and I can take my time to do it right. Two, help me keep track of what I have done and need to do. Thank you everyone for your input, now I just have to fine the will to work on her after a long depressing year, cold weather and no help. Definitely need a garage buddy LOL:D
 

Jays99Spyder

Proven Member
165
57
Feb 22, 2020
Waukegan, Illinois
I don't know any "kits". These used to be some but it was more of a dress up kit. Most hoses that aren't small vac lines are molded and proprietary so you just order accordingly. Rad hoses, heater hoses, turbo coolant etc. If memory serves there are 10 coolant hoses?
Gaskets and seals are as needed but definitely if you have a major component apart address those areas. For instance doing a trans drop change the rear main and at least inspect suspension, cv axles etc. at that time.
I'm going to clean the cooling system when I get her running then replace all the hoses. Do you think the Amazon eBay silicone kits I've seen will be fine or try to find somewhere with the oem ones.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,189
2,760
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
I'm going to clean the cooling system when I get her running then replace all the hoses. Do you think the Amazon eBay silicone kits I've seen will be fine or try to find somewhere with the oem ones.
Unless you're going for a certain look I buy name brand stuff but not necessarily OE stuff.
 

JeffGS-T97

Supporting Member
1,030
745
Mar 22, 2019
Muncie, Indiana
There are a few threads about those silicone hose kit. Most seem positive. Some people mention the clamps are garbage though. I think the brand is G Plus.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/h...alled-a-silicone-hose-kit-from-amazon.520507/
I tried the G-plus radiator main upper and lower hoses to save some money when i first got the car and they were too long. Put some money back and got mishimoto hoses instead. When i ran the car hard i noticed that the lower hose had a small drip. To me any leak anywhere is unacceptable. For vaccum hose refresh I went with Vibrant. I also really like their fuel hoses quite a bit.
 

MattHDSM

Proven Member
99
56
Oct 20, 2018
Ottawa, ON_Canada
I'm going to clean the cooling system when I get her running then replace all the hoses. Do you think the Amazon eBay silicone kits I've seen will be fine or try to find somewhere with the oem ones.
I'm using an eBay silicone hose kit and it fit quite well and covered all coolant lines, was an 11 piece kit. I will say I am chasing after a mystery coolant leak, but I'm pretty sure it isn't from the hoses.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,189
2,760
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
I tried the G-plus radiator main upper and lower hoses to save some money when i first got the car and they were too long. Put some money back and got mishimoto hoses instead. When i ran the car hard i noticed that the lower hose had a small drip. To me any leak anywhere is unacceptable. For vaccum hose refresh I went with Vibrant. I also really like their fuel hoses quite a bit.
Just about every radiator hose I've ever purchased for any car is too long. They are trimmed to fit.
 

Dreams Realized

Proven Member
358
160
Jul 23, 2018
Seattle, Washington
I found a gasket kit on I believe extreme PSI when I was doing my head and timing belt that included every gasket in the engine bay including the paper oil gaskets. That was incredibly helpful.

If you are replacing vacuum lines use the RRE Larsons kit as reference. They don't sell the kit anymore. I color coordinated my EGR lines in case I have to track down a vacuum leak in the future.

RTM racing has alot of various repair kits but if you don't want to go stainless just click on their description drop down and use the "parts included" to build your own kit. I just replaced my fuel filter to fuel rail with their kit and it seems more solid than the stock banjo bolt setup.

But other than that I agree with everyone else just go from area to area and don't skimp. I replaced every part as I went knowing that it's easier to do everything while it's torn apart than to have to redo something you already did because you were being cheap or lazy.
 

Mauispyder

Proven Member
483
81
Jan 20, 2015
Kula, Hawaii
OHM racing (was a DSM tuner sponsor at one point) made a really nice silicone hose set. Only one of the heater hoses needed to be trimmed to fit. Lasted 7 years now and going strong. I’d replace the radiator at 20 years, the top is plastic and tough for sure but why take a chance. Denso makes an OEM replacement for 1-200 bucks. You know this already, but replace your timing components and don’t cheap out like me and not replace the cam and front main seals. Koni shocks are great. Replace the ball joints and possibly the cv joints. Every time you tear down to a motor or transmission mount, replace it.
 

Blinkyblinx9

Proven Member
50
13
Jan 22, 2019
Clinton, Iowa
"A list of parts that should be replaced on tuners" Literally anything and everything can poop out on a 20+ year old car. There are very few factory parts that anyone can for sure guarantee wont fail at this age. Plastic cracks, rubber rots, metal oxidizes, and no seal is impenetrable. If reliability is what you want then go over every crack and crevice with a fine tooth comb and start making lists because really every part is suspect until you see it for yourself.
 

AWD-Tony

Supporting Member
6,671
3,548
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
It really depends what you’re doing and how far you’re willing to go. For example, if you’re doing a clutch, replace the rear main seal. If you’re changing the timing belt, change all the seals and crank sensor (2g). If you’re removing the turbo, replace the crush washers. Thing could bet out of control as it did for me LOL
 

Blinkyblinx9

Proven Member
50
13
Jan 22, 2019
Clinton, Iowa
It really depends what you’re doing and how far you’re willing to go. For example, if you’re doing a clutch, replace the rear main seal. If you’re changing the timing belt, change all the seals and crank sensor (2g). If you’re removing the turbo, replace the crush washers. Thing could bet out of control as it did for me LOL
Dude, I totally feel that. One month on stands due to weeks waiting for the refund of incorrect parts and I had replaced or refinished every suspension component, brakes, bearings, a CV shaft, and the rear subframe. I figured if I'm doing one thing I might as well do it all before I regret it. It adds up so fast.
 

Jays99Spyder

Proven Member
165
57
Feb 22, 2020
Waukegan, Illinois
When I put the 6 bolt in there I replace timing belt, tensioner, MLS head gasket, arp head studs, new seals and gaskets on the water pump but that was 6 years ago. The suspension was replace around that time too but with it sitting so long that will be on the list again too. All the hose are still original so that is definitely on my list. Based on the feedback that I got about the Amazon hoses I think I'm going to use that but just replace the clamps. As for everything else I will start tackling them one at a time until everything is replaced. Thanks everyone for the feedback and keeping my head on the right track with priorities with this car. Its easy to get destracted on performance but what fun would performance be if your sitting on the side of the road.
 

Jays99Spyder

Proven Member
165
57
Feb 22, 2020
Waukegan, Illinois
OHM racing (was a DSM tuner sponsor at one point) made a really nice silicone hose set. Only one of the heater hoses needed to be trimmed to fit. Lasted 7 years now and going strong. I’d replace the radiator at 20 years, the top is plastic and tough for sure but why take a chance. Denso makes an OEM replacement for 1-200 bucks. You know this already, but replace your timing components and don’t cheap out like me and not replace the cam and front main seals. Koni shocks are great. Replace the ball joints and possibly the cv joints. Every time you tear down to a motor or transmission mount, replace it.
I didn't think about the radiator at first so when I flush the coolant I will replace the hoses and the radiator. Probably pull apart the pump and just replace those gaskets to make sure everything is A-OK. Ball joints and seavees are only around six years or so but I will inspect them. For sure I want to get coilovers so she can stop sitting on the stock shocks with lowering springs but hopefully I can find a decent pair without spending a arm and a leg.
 
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