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Remove stripped ARP head stud nut

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I still strongly believe you couldve used an easy out and AT LEAST saved the stud.

This is why I chose not to use the easy out. I tried using it on a stud that broke off from the radiator bracket. It kept stripping the insides of it. Now, if I had put some donkey on the arp with a 24" 1/2" drive pry bar and couldn't break it (instead I stripped that phuker), what makes you think that drilling it, hammering in that small ass easy out (which is about the size of a 1/4 drive), then finding some way to extend what ever lever I was going to use to back it out... I could find something that would allow for greater torque than that of the pry bar??? C'mon, coulda woulda shoulda, that's why I stated if anyone has ever run into this problem, as this was my first. Drilling it worked, I'll just go buy somemore arps, and have some extra laying around :confused: Shit..... :ohdamn: LOL

Thanks again tuners,

KJ

What wrong with your rocker/lash adjuster!?!?! :confused: Collapsed?

Nope, bent a valve so that rocker was loose. And when I retightened the hydro-tensioner to take the belt off, the cams rotated from the tension of one of the valve spring probably making it pop into that position and staying that way. Oh well, I will have spare rockers which are under 30k in use :thumb:

KJ
 
Not an easy out that goes into a drilled hole, but a 12mm nut remover, my fault for not being clear. It goes around the stud and has hardened teeth that bite into the metal when turned counter clockwise. I've pulled stuck shafts out of things with these. They will bite into anything. I would have stopped thinking about reusing the studs if it took a breaker bar and cheater to get the nuts off.
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That's exactly what I was suggesting. I don't think the op understood or wanted to spend more/do it the hard way...
 
I thought you were talking about that too. But I don't know if there's room around the nut for one. They are thicker than a 12-point 1/2" 14mm socket. If one could get aroudn it would definately have come off easy. I've used those on many a flywheel-to-crank bolt :)
 
I thought you were talking about that too. But I don't know if there's room around the nut for one. They are thicker than a 12-point 1/2" 14mm socket. If one could get aroudn it would definately have come off easy. I've used those on many a flywheel-to-crank bolt :)

I've used them a lot on 2g's. People try a 6-point socket and it strips the factory head bolts.
 
Irwin makes those extractors and boy oh boy are they nice. best 40 bucks you can spend
 
Not an easy out that goes into a drilled hole, but a 12mm nut remover, my fault for not being clear. It goes around the stud and has hardened teeth that bite into the metal when turned counter clockwise. I've pulled stuck shafts out of things with these. They will bite into anything. I would have stopped thinking about reusing the studs if it took a breaker bar and cheater to get the nuts off.
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Ahhhhh... ok, I didn't know you meant those. Damn, i'm still going to pick some up anyways! Thanks for the pics, now I know what they look like.

:thumb:

KJ

I thought you were talking about that too. But I don't know if there's room around the nut for one. They are thicker than a 12-point 1/2" 14mm socket. If one could get aroudn it would definately have come off easy. I've used those on many a flywheel-to-crank bolt :)

That's what I was thinking when I first saw the pics of those...

KJ

Vice grips? LOLOLOLOLOL

Please don't make fun of those trying to help you when you rounded a 12point nut.

I didn't think I made fun of him, but if that is the case... my apologies my brotha!! :thumb:

KJ
 
I think you did it the right way.

To those who suggested easy outs: I've broken a couple easy outs with a small ratchet, far from the torque it takes to remove a head stud that still has the torqued-down nut on it. Easy outs are a joke IMO.

Thanks bro...

KJ
 
I will never use another easy out as long as I live. When I was pulling my EVO III 16g, I snapped off one of the manifold to turbo bolts flush with the housing. After about 30 drill bits, I was able to get enough of a hole in the stud to get the easy out in there. 10 seconds later, the end snapped off in the bolt. I took it to a machine shop and they laughed at me.

I found some old guy that was able to melt out the bolt and clean up the threads. Either way, they are junk.
 
I can't stand them either. I prefer to, if posible. To set a nut on the stud and fill it with some wire weld and just back it out with that new nut welded on.
 
New wiseman has spoken. We all bow to the superior intellect :p . . . That's a good idea. Never liked arc welding around valvetrain parts though. Yet a nice mig welder would do the trick.
 
Superior intellect? Or experience from breaking a lot of stuff?
 
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