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2G Relatively easy engine mount solution for 6 bolts

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v8s_are_slow

20+ Year Contributor
2,823
266
Sep 30, 2002
Panama City, Florida
So I did the 5 speed to auto swap and learned a LOT along the way. One thing I learned is that if you're using the Kiggly adapter plate to install a transmission in a 2g with a 6 bolt, it put's about 3/4" between the engine and transmission. And it's a HUGE pain trying to get the engine mounts to line up. Buddy helped me get it in and we used a pry bar and gave it everything I had to push the mount over with the prybar while he put the bolt in. And I really didn't like the thought of having to pull it back out and do that over again for a future date. Not to mention, I have a hood exit exhaust and it shifted my pipe over. Did I really wanna hack my exhaust just to make it fit? So there just had to be an easier way. I know there's someone out there that sells a modified mount but I just couldn't see myself paying someone else to do something I could possibly do for free.

Here, you can see just how off my exhaust was after the install at the top of the hood.
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This is probably easier if you have stock mounts but I have Prothane mounts so all I did was take a 3/4" wood drill bit or whatever you call it and drilled an extra hole to the outside portion of the mount that goes on top of the transmission. I mean after all, that's about how much is being moved over due to the plate, so I wanted to move the mounts over that much as well. Here's what I used to drill the hole.
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This is where I drilled it.
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I knocked out the sleeve and hammered it into the new hole. The sleeve is a bit larger than 3/4" so once it's in there, it's not going anywhere. But this is how it looks after installing.
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Now that's not all. The rear mount takes some work as well and this is where you might need someone with a welder or muffler shop if you don't have one yourself, but at the least, you just have to drill through the 7 (I think) spot welds that hold the top and bottom together. This is what it looks like before starting and it's easy to see where the spot welds are. Just drill through them.
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After you're done it'll look something like this.
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Since you'll be welding it, you'll wanna grind off any paint and get it cleaned up really good.
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From there, all you do is move the top portion over about 3/4" and drill one new hole so that the mounting bolts line up. You'll wanna weld the halves back together and I also put welds where all the spot welds were at. I just have a $100 Harbor Freight flux core welder and it got the job done. It doesn't have to be pretty cause no one will be able to see it. But you'll wanna make sure it's a good weld and will hold. Then paint it so rust doesn't set in.
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And that's it. The timing belt side mount doesn't get moved, the front mount went in easily, and it was a breeze to put the bolts back in the mounts without ANY fighting at all. Couldn't believe how much easier it went in. Keep in mind that the passenger axle gets shifted over as well but so far that seems to be just fine, and my exhaust lines back up without any hacking at all. Hope this helps some of y'all. What a difference 3\4" made to my exhaust.
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And looking under the hood, you'd never know what was ever done to make it all work.
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What if you have billet mounts like I do? I would almost rather find a way to use the 1g auto in the car if I had to do that, but it would probably be a lot of messing around also.
 
You would probably have to modify those two mounts or give up on those and swap to Prothane or stock without just forking out the extra cash for a custom mount.
 
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