Regular arp or L19?

[gsxxer]

I am building a fresh 6 bolt for my 2g and plan on going for 500+ hp, would the regular arp headstuds be fine or should I opt for the L19's? This isn't my first 500 hp car but it's my first boosted one...

 

[99gst_racer]

True, and when you ad detonation you never really know what's going to happen. I suppose it would be more accurate to say over 500awhp things can start to let go.

Any limitation should be assumed that the engine is properly tuned.
Wheel HP isn't accurate either because it's not limited to cylinder pressure and it adds a host of other varibles such as powertrain losses. The most accurate definition of their limitation would be about 60-65 lbs/min on a 9:1 or less CR engine. This is, of course, assuming a proper tune on properly installed studs, and with good surfaces on the head and block.

 

[El Cuervo]

I've been also thinking of getting some new head studs. Mainly h11 or l19s. I'm interest to know about the discontinuing of the heavy duty studs and the supposed revision or new studs that will take their place.

 

[phunny]

Any limitation should be assumed that the engine is properly tuned.
Wheel HP isn't accurate either because it's not limited to cylinder pressure and it adds a host of other varibles such as powertrain losses. The most accurate definition of their limitation would be about 60-65 lbs/min on a 9:1 or less CR engine. This is, of course, assuming a proper tune on properly installed studs, and with good surfaces on the head and block.

There are way too many assumptions to try and list them all. Each car is different so this is only trying to give a rough estimate using some commonly used numbers, IE awhp, lbs/minute and psi on similar sized turbos... So if this were not the case then really no advice should be given as each vehicle is different.

 

[99gst_racer]

I agree that there's no definite right or wrong answer. My only point is that rating their strength by cylinder pressure is far more accurate than by WHP, BHP, PSI, etc...


WHP is useless because a guy could be flowing 75 lbs/min airflow on a crappy tune and a worn out drivetrain and could put down 450 WHP.

PSI is useless because it doesn't indicate cylinder pressure at all. EI: 30 psi on a 16g isn't flowing the same airflow as 30 psi on a GT45r.

Mass flow is a prime factor for determining cylinder pressure and that can be used to determine if the strength of a particular stud is sufficient for a particular application.

 

[SupremeDsm]

Call strictly import motorsports. They was telling me about it.

 

[phunny]

I've been also thinking of getting some new head studs. Mainly h11 or l19s. I'm interest to know about the discontinuing of the heavy duty studs and the supposed revision or new studs that will take their place.

Click on the link I posted and you can read about them.

I agree that there's no definite right or wrong answer. My only point is that rating their strength by cylinder pressure is far more accurate than by WHP, BHP, PSI, etc...


WHP is useless because a guy could be flowing 75 lbs/min airflow on a crappy tune and a worn out drivetrain and would put down 450 WHP.

PSi is useless because it doesn't indicate cylinder pressure at all. EI: 30 psi on a 16g isn't flowing the same airflow as 30 psi on a GT45r.

Mass flow is a prime factor for determining cylinder pressure and that can be used to determine if the strength of a particular stud is sufficient for a particular application.

By mass flow are we talking about lbs/minute? If so, I completely agree. On the other points though, not so much though, at first you said, assuming it has a good tune. And I'm assuming a good drive-train. My point is that everything has to be an assumption on topics like this.

What we are basically trying to figure out in this thread is the maximum tolerances of headstuds. And it pretty much seems that there are wayyyy to many variables to ever determine where the "edge" is on the headstuds. So basically, if you are building a "built car" and don't want to possibly be near the yield strength of the ARP's, go with something better. Nothing is more irritating than every time someone asks what they should purchase and someone recommends a better product people always want to say that it's not needed.

ex.

"I runded dem stock 7-bolt studs on my 104mm turbo without a headgasket, I just used some gorilla glue between da block and head."

 

[hurricanecris24]

Are h11 any better than the l19? Or they just the same

 

[phunny]

Are h11 any better than the l19? Or they just the same

Same thing, L19 are made from H11.

 

[Mrdocprofessor]

L19s be safe

 

[coltboostin]

Hopefully relevant old thread bump. I have made 500+whp (135+ traps speeds() with stock 1G Bolts. The current HoboEvo is making near 1000at the flywheel (160mph trap) with standard ARP2000. It does not push ANYTHING at 40psi. 43psi it will push 4-8oz per pass. 47 psi it will push 20 oz per pass. I **may** be at the point where I can benefit from more clamp load, but since the car is out of fuel and was going lean, it may just need fuel! Either way, people saying an L19 is needed for 500hp is just ridiculous.

I have also seen people blow a MLS apart with L19s at 450whp.

This is all 100% relative to setup and more important the TUNE. The ECU calibration is the single most important factor in what you can make work. Timing, detonation, Cylinder pressure. Keep it all in check and you can go far with a ARP2000 you found in your random bolts box, like me.