The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Red & Rough

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I bought this truck in 1992 in Aspen, Colorado. The guy was living up in Starwood, and had owned it since 1971. I got tired of working on it outside, and tried to give it away in 2007. The guy who took it simply parked in a field in Idaho. Never even retitled it. Sadly, he died, and his buddy called me up. I just retrieved it 2 weeks ago.
This is my “next” project when the eclipse is restored. Needs some love and a paint job. These old Sweptline style trucks have nice lines (as do Ford and Chevy of this era). Back when American made automobiles were the the height of Engineering and quality, and gas was leaded and very cheap.
It does have the aluminum 4 barrel intake and carb, and custom dual exhaust. Big throaty sound, very satisfying.
I wish it could have stayed in Idaho a bit longer, but it was take it or leave it situation.
I did already pick up some junkyard 16” rims to replace the 16.5” it came with. Not many 16.5”tire choices now adays. Surprisingly, the tires it has (probably ~ 1998?) are looking fine.
The manual steering has never been tight during my ownership, and driving it for the first time in more than a decade reminded me how well modern cars handle.
Not many plans for it in the near term, and this really wouldn’t be the right place to post about it. Still, I see other folks with photos of their non-dsm rides, so why not!
 
Now that I have my old truck back home, I’m putting it in order to function as a useful tool for me. I’ve missed having it every time I have to think of who I can ask to borrow their pickup. I mean in Wyoming at least it’s kind of expected that you have one.
One of the last chores for this stage was getting the old motor out of the bed. I think the long block weighs 400lbs or so, and I don’t have a hoist. Fortunately where having some landscaping done, and the guy doing the work asked if they could leave their bobcat in our driveway a week early.
“OK”,…..
;)
 

Attachments

  • 96487952-B597-4EB1-A206-1472819DF877.jpeg
    96487952-B597-4EB1-A206-1472819DF877.jpeg
    464.8 KB · Views: 31
  • A128D9CC-4D3A-4427-9CF2-86BF54A06A6F.jpeg
    A128D9CC-4D3A-4427-9CF2-86BF54A06A6F.jpeg
    483.2 KB · Views: 35
There is a replacement 383 in it now. I bought it on ebay from a fellow who had rebuilt it for his old mopar car, but decided to go 440 instead. I likely will rebuild the original one at some point, and put it back where it belongs. If the replacement is actually rebuilt like the seller claimed, it now has only about 60 miles on it.
A hellcat crate motor would be interesting, though they cost about $30k (so almost enough to finish my 1g :hmm:) Plus their peak torque is at 4,xxx rpm (700 lbft +\-!!!). This old 383 was rated at 375 lbft at like 2,800rpm, and that’s completely stock ( although gross, not net, so not including alternator and fan ??).

Maybe when I get there, I’ll post the replacement on DSMT classifieds for one of these ambitious fab swaps. They have a lot of high rpm potential; 4.25 bore x 3.38 stroke ( so big 2.08 intake valves) 1.88 rod ratio (and plentiful stroker 430 kits). Blower options for sure. 🤣
 
More taking things off today. Looks like cam seals may be part of the leaks. Not sure how else oil gets up there. Probably vc gasket, too, as I noticed that the vc cover bolt that goes roughly behind the intake cam gear was mia.
T-belt still looks all dry and clean. Really hoping not to replace stuff that I just replaced recently.
 

Attachments

  • 145A6396-C18B-49A7-993B-14154585C99B.jpeg
    145A6396-C18B-49A7-993B-14154585C99B.jpeg
    538.5 KB · Views: 36
  • 11EB0A8C-7D0E-4219-9921-0CC36C839E6E.jpeg
    11EB0A8C-7D0E-4219-9921-0CC36C839E6E.jpeg
    538.7 KB · Views: 36
The dodge got buried over a week ago, and I was to busy to deal with it. I got it out today, thanks to 4-low. Then I took a victory lap around the block. A mighty roar announcing the achievement.
 

Attachments

  • C176BC90-E28F-4748-9ACD-516A7E91D334.jpeg
    C176BC90-E28F-4748-9ACD-516A7E91D334.jpeg
    493.8 KB · Views: 27
  • 2F752CA1-3B75-47E7-B62A-30611AC498B8.jpeg
    2F752CA1-3B75-47E7-B62A-30611AC498B8.jpeg
    759 KB · Views: 28
  • 657DB345-DB7C-4438-9A33-F9C7E6289EA5.jpeg
    657DB345-DB7C-4438-9A33-F9C7E6289EA5.jpeg
    748.8 KB · Views: 28
Found a matching set of door and ignition locks on ebay. Super easy to install, and now everything on one key. These doors, and most if the sheet metal, came from a 1969 d100 that I picked up in Minturn Colorado one day around 1995. Same stock color.

Anyway, I can’t even remember back to when I could lock the doors.
Lots of rather minor items to go through on the Dodge, and now that the Eclipse is running pretty well (oil staying inside the engine!!), I can get the truck fixed up. A full paint job on it feels daunting.

IMG_0453.jpeg


IMG_0458.jpeg
 
I had a 80% success today with replacing Warn hubs. Each side had one broken bolt in the wheel housing. The pass. side came out pretty well. Used a left-hand 1/4” bit, and it ended up backing out while drilling. There was only like the last 1.5 threads of the old bolt in there. I used a brass fitting as a drill guide, to keep centered on the bolt.
After that the hub went right on.
The driver’s side was a different deal. I was making on progress with the drill, but then it stopped cutting. I tried a right-hand 1/4” and a 5/16, and a 1/8, but I couldn’t get much bite at all. I even went and bought new bits (left and right handed) but they wouldn’t cut. I believe I may have found where someone broke an extractor in there. I need to get some well-made cobalt bits and see if I can punch through whatever is laughing at my attempts.
I bolted the new hub on anyway. It’s been driving with only 5 bolts for at least 30 years.

IMG_0491.jpeg


IMG_0490.jpeg


IMG_0493.jpeg


IMG_0494.jpeg


IMG_0495.jpeg
 
Got a cobalt drill bit at Ace. It’s Milwaukee brand. Tried for 1/2 hour and didn’t get anywhere on removing whatever is broken off in the wheel hub that the locking hub bolts into. I’ve read that there are two different common hardnesses of cobalt steel used for drill bits, and this may be the lesser one.

I’ve ordered some bits for a dremmel that might grind it out. One set of carbide burrs, and one set of diamond burrs. The one good thing about this situation is that there is plenty of room to work, since it’s on the end of the axle. I’ll post an update after the next round of this battle.
 
I had a 80% success today with replacing Warn hubs. Each side had one broken bolt in the wheel housing. The pass. side came out pretty well. Used a left-hand 1/4” bit, and it ended up backing out while drilling. There was only like the last 1.5 threads of the old bolt in there. I used a brass fitting as a drill guide, to keep centered on the bolt.
After that the hub went right on.
The driver’s side was a different deal. I was making on progress with the drill, but then it stopped cutting. I tried a right-hand 1/4” and a 5/16, and a 1/8, but I couldn’t get much bite at all. I even went and bought new bits (left and right handed) but they wouldn’t cut. I believe I may have found where someone broke an extractor in there. I need to get some well-made cobalt bits and see if I can punch through whatever is laughing at my attempts.
I bolted the new hub on anyway. It’s been driving with only 5 bolts for at least 30 years.

View attachment 704691

View attachment 704692

View attachment 704693

View attachment 704694

View attachment 704695
Good old left hand threads on old Mopar passenger (er driver’s) sides. - Theoretical engineers. Apparently I had it backwards (hah):

 
Last edited:
Yes, I still have the lefty wheel studs on the rear drivers side. All the ones on the front axle are normal right-hand. Someone must have done it before the truck found me. I don’t believe the locking hubs ever had left and right hand threads, though. Just the wheels.

I am still working on that one stuck bolt. The carbide burr has been the best at slowly shaving steel out, and it did eject a sort of pyramid shaped piece that I assume was the tip of an extractor of some sort. I’ve had very limited time to work on it. I’ll probably find more time right as winter sets it.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top