Recommended primers for rust-proofing and painting auto parts?

[XC92]

As part of my overall restoration project on my '92 Talon TSi AWD, I've been removing, cleaning, derusting, priming and painting various structural and mechanical parts, both to get rid of rust which over time can destroy these parts, and to make the car look nicer (anyone who spends any amount of time working under their cars would likely agree with this).

I'm talking about control arms, center and cross members, engine mounts, battery tray, brackets, etc. Some are more "important" than others, but they all serve a necessary purpose and benefit from being cleaned and derusted and just simply looking nice and as close to stock as possible.

To clean them I've been using various products like Purple Power, Super Clean (my favorite), Dawn, brake cleaner, alcohol, etc., and to derust I'm been using a combination of hammers, scrapers, files, manual wire brushes, brush wheels, abrasive wheels, grinding bits, rotary tool with grinding bits, sand paper and chemical methods.

Once they're as clean and rust-free as I could get them (there's always a tiny bit of rust that's hard to get out in crevices and such, and flash rust if I don't prime right away), I've then applied several coats of primer and then several coats of paint, all rattle can and almost all Rustoleum.

I'm happy with the paint I've been using, mostly either flat or semi-gloss black for parts, plus flat and semi-gloss white for under the car and the wheel wells (my Talon is white).

It's the primer that I still can't make up my mind about. I've used various types, from Self-Etching to Clean Metal to Rusty Metal to Rust Reformer.

All seem to get the job done, but I'm wondering which is preferably for this sort of painting of these sorts of parts, that are very clean and mostly rust-free, and which by the nature of the rust removal process are already mechanically etched and need no further prep.

Does it matter, or are they all basically going to be equivalent for my needs? Do some dry faster, take paint better, or result in a nicer finish? Are some better at covering up shallow rust pits or being sanded to remove drip lines? Any other considerations, say in terms of rust-proofing?

 

[XC92]

Eh, never mind. For most such uses they're probably all the same so long as I got rid of nearly all the rust and cleaned it properly, and I'm overthinking it. These are parts you don't see most of the time, not body panels and such. I ended up getting the self-etching primer, which I've read gives better paint adhesion than regular primer on clean rust-free metal.

 

[Mech Addict]

So I’ve tried to do a similar process, though my car lived in FLA, so not as severe, by the sound of it. The part I wonder most about is the fringe between the factory paint that is still holding ok vs. the bare metal where I’ve removed rust and loose, flaking paint. Do different products work better at both covering the bare Metal and not comprising the old paint, or like you said, is this overthinking it. Those who really go all out use media blasting and powder coat, but I’m not that concerned. Maybe for wheels, if mine were steel.
I’ve used some they sell out here in the the wild west at what we call a home/ranch store. It’s called “tractor” paint. Usually just matte or gloss black, depending on what & where.

 

[XC92]

I've heard of tractor paint. I'm guessing that it's tough and not necessarily something you want to put on a classic car restoration, but gets the job done. This whole process my main concern was getting all that dirt, grime and rust off, and preventing new rust. Making things pretty was a secondary concern, especially with rarely seen parts and the underbody.

But still, if you're going to do something, might as well go all the way--within reason. I'm less concerned about painting over mixed surfaces as I generally get everything off, dirt, rust, rubberized coatings, so it's all a uniform and rough sur face. I just want the paint to stick and rust to not come back. My car's underside looked pretty nasty when I started.

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[Jk's97DSM]

You’re too far into it to change now but Steel-it is great stuff.

 

[XC92]

Thanks. One of the reasons I stuck with Rustoleum is that there are too damn many options out there, which is a GOOD thing, if you have the time, patience and ability to sift through it all and pick what works best for your situation, needs and budget, which I didn't at the time.

I can always revisit this someday and either strip it all down and recoat, or paint over after proper prep. But at the time I really needed a relatively quick and inexpensive way to treat everything after I removed all that rust so it didn't come back for a while and looked decent.

I think I did ok for a first attempt, under the circumstances, but there's always room for improvement.

 

[vanilla gorilla]

The best primer for rust prevention and adhesion is epoxy. Self-etch and wash primers were and still are an option but epoxy has pretty well replaced them. I see youre using rattle cans. Thats fine, but if you want real protection and longevity you need to be using 2k products. (2 part products, meaning a seperate hardener/activator is required). If you dont have means to spray products from a gun, Eastwood has some epoxy primers that are 2k but in rattle can. They also have 2k clears in rattle can. So you have options.
The best thing to use on suspension and frames is powdercoating obviously. Outside of that I would do an epoxy primer then follow that with a single stage (2k) automotive paint.
Also, the correct way to prep rusty parts is to get ALL the rust off first. Those spray on rust converters and por-15 and all that stuff is snake oil. Rust will come back if not removed.
All coming from a person with years in automotive refinishing. Thank you.

 

[XC92]

Thanks. First pass I'm doing it with rattle can primer and paint, and then at some point I might revisit it all and do it "right". The key was to get off literally decades of rust that would eventually have destroyed much of the car, with some parts very hard or impossible to replace. I think I got nearly all of it off, except for hard to get to parts. Between that and canned primer and paint, I think I bought myself at least a few years, and then I can decide what to do. It certainly looks vastly better than before, as you can see above. But I'll keep your advice in mind.

 

[vanilla gorilla]

Thanks. First pass I'm doing it with rattle can primer and paint, and then at some point I might revisit it all and do it "right". The key was to get off literally decades of rust that would eventually have destroyed much of the car, with some parts very hard or impossible to replace. I think I got nearly all of it off, except for hard to get to parts. Between that and canned primer and paint, I think I bought myself at least a few years, and then I can decide what to do. It certainly looks vastly better than before, as you can see above. But I'll keep your advice in mind.

Its a major improvement! Im suprised you got it cleaned up so well!

 

[XC92]

Its a major improvement! Im suprised you got it cleaned up so well!

Massive elbow grease and using basically every tool I had at hand. Next time though I'm buying an angle grinder and wheels. Using a drill and impact driver with attachments did some short-term damage to the nerves of my hands and wrists, that's hopefully not permanent.