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Recommendations to low lag Hx40

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TAMA_player

15+ Year Contributor
141
13
Jan 27, 2007
Aguascalientes, Central_America
Asking for a little help to avoid waste of time and money here (I have a new baby so money is not to spare :p)

I just found a very good deal on a HX40 and i want some inputs on how make it work for my car.

My goals for the turbo is about 38~42 lbs/min flow
The lowest lag possible on a HX40 (im not looking for HP here so sacrifice peak HP for lower lag is very welcome)

I will make this change because i get tired of turbos dying pretty soon (just 21psi at 7124 ft altitude), so wanted a more low octane gas friendly turbo, and also a turbo that can flow and last. Mostly a turbo that can last long!



So a bep .55 will be the best choice or maybe a divided manifold? or something else? I can get a divided manifold more easily btw....

I really looked at old post, but seems old the post are looking for maximum flow and trying to sacrifice the less spool time. So seems they are a very different approach..

I appreciate any help :)
 
Is it a 12 or 14cm housing? Those are for the hx35? I had a 14cm bored out for a hx40. Ideally I would have put on a 16cm which would be a straight bolt on if I remember right.
No more info was given to me, but I suppose it is a 12cm turbine housing.
It will help for spool right?
 
Well I just may be going to a custom t3 set up might as well do twin scroll at this point and Call it done . Call it done and keep my bep stuff for back up.
 
So finally it arrives, THere she is:
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She have a strange green like coating on the compressor housing. And seems like new. Like it was never installed? Also my friend (the seller) said it was not from a truck.
THe good thing is that she are like new :) it have a 17cm2 housing.

By the consensus seems a divided manifold is the way to go. But, that 17cm is the housing i need? or what housing i need for low lag?
 
So finally it arrives, THere she is:
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She have a strange green like coating on the compressor housing. And seems like new. Like it was never installed? Also my friend (the seller) said it was not from a truck.
THe good thing is that she are like new :) it have a 17cm2 housing.

By the consensus seems a divided manifold is the way to go. But, that 17cm is the housing i need? or what housing i need for low lag?
Does that 17cm housing have a t4 flange? I personally would do 16 cm or 14cm t3. 14 or 12cm for even quicker spool. I think the 16 cm hosing is the best housing for a hx40. Then the 14cm minimum
 
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Does that 17cm housing have a t4 flange? I personally would do 16 cm or 14cm t3. 14 or 12cm for even quicker spool. I think the 16 cm hosing is the best housing for a hx40. Then the 14cm minimum
Yes that 17cm is a T4. T4 is the stock housing right? I mean there is T3 in HX40s?
 
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If low-lag and 42 lb/min at the lowest boost possible is a serious goal, I'd suggest the 58mm 8-blade HX40 compressor on a HX35 turbine in the .55 a/r DSM-flanged Bullseye housing. You don't need any more turbine flow than what that will provide you to get to such a goal, and at that point the turbo should maintain excellent reliability. Beyond that point you'll run into a knock wall depending what type of fuel you're using, and there's no sense in spending a pile of money on a bulky twin-scroll manifold and two wastegates when the DSM-flanged setup will do what you need it to do.
 
If low-lag and 42 lb/min at the lowest boost possible is a serious goal, I'd suggest the 58mm 8-blade HX40 compressor on a HX35 turbine in the .55 a/r DSM-flanged Bullseye housing. You don't need any more turbine flow than what that will provide you to get to such a goal, and at that point the turbo should maintain excellent reliability. Beyond that point you'll run into a knock wall depending what type of fuel you're using, and there's no sense in spending a pile of money on a bulky twin-scroll manifold and two wastegates when the DSM-flanged setup will do what you need it to do.
The goal here is to use a HX40, obtain the lowest lag possible, and at least get 42lb/min. If i can get the lowest lag and can get more than 42lb/min of flow shure i will take it! Boost level is not important.
So the constant here is the 58mm 8 blade HX40. What i can change is turbine housings and manifolds. I have no experience with other turbos than 16g's.

Im just about to go to machine the flanges (engine, T4, and Oil drain). But this response hold me back. I don't know what to do.
 
For the cost and ease of install? Yes!

You want to spend a lot of money and do a lot of fabrication and have slightly better spool and responsiveness? get the T/S setup.
 
Well, i will go for a BEP bolt on housing or a divided 12cm housing, what happens first.

In the meantime i inspected the turbo, and its water cooled? I thought Chinese turbos wasn't water cooled. At first i was sure it was Chinese, but after inspection im not so sure. Looking at this Holset PDF. My turbo have all the characteristics of an original turbo. Except the plate, that oddingly have a Garrett part number? haha.
Maybe the Chinese copies goes further in excellence?

What do you think, fake, estrange genuine? or maybe it was rebuild with some random parts?

Link to Holset PDF:
http://www.myholsetturbo.com/images/holsetcounterfeitprevention.pdf

Pics of the turbo:
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I think you are right Kyle, that a few models may have had water cooling also, but yes most are oil cooled only. Hell my son got a Flebay turbo a few years back and the water cooling part of the CHRA had a crack so he just ran it with oil and it was still going strong until the car got stolen and ran into a tree.
Jus will clear this up with his expertise!!
 
My genuine hx40 did not habe water cooling lines. Oil cooled only. Thats weird. But i can't sah for sure all hx35/40 are oil cooled only. But i assume thr majority is. @JusMX141 what you think?
If it came from a natural gas-powered bus, compressor, or generator then it will have coolant ports on the bearing housing. Doesn't mean you have to use them, however.
 
If it came from a natural gas-powered bus, compressor, or generator then it will have coolant ports on the bearing housing. Doesn't mean you have to use them, however.

The seller says it doesnt came from a truck. But also he doesnt espicify where it come from.

What do you think? is genuine or fake?
 
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