The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support ExtremePSI

rebuilt stage 2 transmission, wore out in 500 miles

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South_Carolina
to start off this is not any question in general, more of opinions from anyone who has any knowledge of these transmissions. anyways, long story short i've bought almost all new stuff for this build and had had my engine head and AWD trans sent off for a rebuild, which now I wish i would have just junked this trans to begin with.

i had it shipped off to dogbox racing, which closed just some months after finishing the rebuild.supposivley, he gave me good strong parts for a stage 2 rebuild for a stage 1 price. his prices were already slightly lower then others at the time too so I went ahead not thinking hed close soon and leave me without a warranty.

I had several problems all after i got the trans/engine assembley instealled starting with a chipped back case that I couldnt just fill with jb weld. called for a new case replacement and that just stoped the oil from dripping while sitting cold.

once i got to driving the car I noticed there was some dripping after everything was warm and sat overnight, but nothing when cold. kept checking fluid levels over and over and it was deffinatley the trans not the TCASE, which the dealership supposivley replaced shortly before me buying the car. didnt look like anything was coming from anywhere accept the passenger CV cup seal which is the most pain to get to. Ive still gone to it and replaced the seal 3 times with OEM axle seals and now the trans is back to leaking while cold from this seal so loosing severe in drive most likely.

with that said, I know it was leaking so before each drive i would ensure everything is right level and not drive to hard or far. whenever i did fill some back in it never took but a cupple ounces of oil or so. alot of times it was a waste of time to take the fill plug off, this of course with the oil cooled off or it would pour out anyways.... but going just passed 515 miles since first drive, transmission has had 3-4 oil changes with basic 80W90 gear oil for yellow metals and now besides more oil leakage my 1st gear is totally worn out for some reason and only grinds when you attempt to engage, 2nd gear works somewhat to take off but Im pulling the transmission soon.

anyone have any clues what most likely caused my first gear to chew up so soon? i dont see why i should have so many problems with the trans when i had it rebuilt honeslty. I can bring up the receit of the internals he supposivley put in for stage 2, i only remember spyder 4 upgrade and a welded center differential which was supposed to add strength for itself.
 
Damn bro, thats horrible luck. Sounds like something that would happen to me.. all I own is auto DSM's so I dont know very much about our manual transmissions. Did u replace the clutch when u put the new trans in? Thats about all I can think of that would wear your gears/synchro's out in the trans.
 
rebuilt / new oem clutch from a local clutch rebuilder

new fidanza flywheel that came with the car, not sure if its a lightweight or not but also new bolts loctied in, everything torqued down good in a good order.

plus on top of using 80w90 which is on thickerside of 'ideal' ive had some lucas oil stabilzer in the trasnmission just to see at one point if itd help at all with the dripping but a complete backfire -- in addition to no help with the leak it caused the trans to have an oil drag affect. keeping the timing/engine engaged with the transmission deffinatley in neutral postion.

although lucas says its fine to use the oil stabilizer as a stop leak for manual trans, alaways knew stop leak products were pure BS anyways
 
Clutch was most likely not fully disengaging. #1 cause of our transmission failures.

^ Yes.

Also, if you did not replace the rest of the shifting components remaining in your car with brand new parts. Then that is why it failed as well. Shep requires you to do that or your warranty is void.
 
well with that said I guess you could only be talking about the shift linkage cables themselves? along with the slave cylinder? the slave was replaced and bled a few times with a new braided line as well. nothing appeared to be wrong with the cables at all, i just took note of the locations and put em on later. Not sure how the cluch wouldnt of been fully disengaging, would it be hard to tell while driving? honestly there wasnt really anything 'rough' about the trans, just leaked and now 1st gears suddenly chewed up.
 
Sometimes it can be hard to tell. There could be many things that can come into play from your step height from the flywheel to the slave/ pivot ball/ fork/TOB. Everything has to be properly adjusted.

Here is Jacks video on how to adjust the clutch.

Here is what Jacks transmissions requires for you to do to check for issues.

•With the vehicle running, disengage the e-brake so it can roll.
•Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
•Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit the rev limiter. You MUST DO THIS!! If you do not, then there is no point in performing this test.
•Shift the car into 1st gear.
•Rev the engine up, while the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, until you feel the car start to move forward.

If the vehicle moves forward below the rev limiter, your clutch is dragging

Your clutch disengagement should not have to do with your shifter linkage.

This is only a suggestion based of what usually happens to our transmissions. How do you know the gear is physically chewed up? If it is not drivable and needs to be repaired regardless the only way is to take it apart and inspect.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top