Rebuild

[ShowStoppa]

Ok, I finally got enough money saved to start my second rebuild. The first one was a complete half ass job. The motor did not even see the machine shop(NOT BUILT BY ME). I am rebuilding because of a bearing in the process of completely spun. I have found metal shavings in my oil dipstick and hear the same knock that i heard 3 years ago. I also changed my oil and literarily .2 miles of driving the oil turned flat black and was contaminated with fuel. Their is Black smoke coming out my exhaust in between shifts, when i hit the throttle at idle and start up.

My car is a 96 Gs-t with 1123 miles on the rebuild. It has Eagle Rods, Wiseco Pistons, ARP Head-studs and running a BIG 16G. NGK Plugs(Copper) and wires. No Air/Fuel Management and a stock fuel pump. Replaced fuel filter and Fuel line(SSB).The block is a 7 bolt and plan on keeping it that way. Not looking to build a track whore. I have only driven my car 1200 miles since i bought it 3 years ago. I do not want a track whore or simple grocery getter. Just something with some kick that will get me to school, work, and anywhere else i please. I honestly do not plan on passing the 400HP mark.

I plan on having the the following parts installed.

ACL Main and Rod Bearings.(After the crank gets inspected by the Machinist)
OEM Water Pump
OEM Oil Pump
Cometic Head Gasket
New Pistons( Topline or Ross Forged Racing Pistons, .20 over)
Felpro upper and lower Gasket Set
Block Hot Tanked
Bored and Honed .20 over
Balance Shaft removal
ARP Main Studs

I have done extensive research on tuners, spoken with local DSM owners and mechanist but would like opinions and suggestions from you guys on my list and what else might i need to do.

After my rebuild is done and motor installed i will have to tackle the Maf issue i am having. When i plug my Maf Sensor the motor bucks violently then stalls out. I have tried 3-4 known working Maf sensors, replaced plugs, wires, filters and Yes checked the timing. What could be the problem?

 

[brandon1239]

I wouldnt use Topline pistons, i heard they were junk. just use the stuff you have now like those wiseco pistons and you should be set. or get some evo 9 pistons, some people have used those around here and have been pretty happy with them. new timing belt too. let us know how it goes.

 

[ShowStoppa]

I wish i could keep my Wiseco pistons but i am going to Bore out the block .20 so i am pretty much force to buy new pistons.

 

[tenn-gsx]

Get pistons from parts dinosaur. Or go with a set from a supporting vendor. There are lots of ways to get a cheap set. Why Are you boring it? If there isnt any damage to the cylinders then just go with a good hone to match whatever pistons you use and leave the bore aloan. A .20 over bore will net you almost 0 power vs stock bore. On top ov that you will be limiting the blocks ability to handle future rebuilds if you bore when you dont need to.

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

As far as the maf issue, It sounds like something in the wireing is not right. Disconnect the maf and check continuity from the harness to the ecm. The pinout is available: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/281763-2g-turbo-ecu-pinout-w-wire-colors.html That would be my first step at this point. Let us know how it goes.

 

[ShowStoppa]

Well i got myself a Multimeter and will check it the wiring harness tomorrow. I decided that i will be dropping my car off at a shop in Tampa.AutoModz. The owner is charging me $1800 for the works. Removal/Install, Machining Head and bottom end with new valve train assembly, Parts and labor. After he removes the pistons i will update and let you guys know how scorched the cylinder walls are. Towing her there this sunday and it should take a 1 1/2 to a week for the car to be running again.

 

[Clutch GSX]

You may want to do some head porting while you're at it if your goal is up to 400HP.

 

[habitatguy187]

You may want to do some head porting while you're at it if your goal is up to 400HP.

Ignore that.

 

[Clutch GSX]

Ignore that.

Just because I do port work doesn't mean he shouldn't consider it...

 

[habitatguy187]

Just because I do port work doesn't mean he shouldn't consider it...

Not saying that's the reason why, it's just unnecessary for 400hp. I've read people say that they had very little gains after having their head ported.

 

[Calan]

Not saying that's the reason why, it's just unnecessary for 400hp. I've read people say that they had very little gains after having their head ported.

Agreed. There are many more productive ways to spend that money.

 

[jestoy7]

Sounds like a good build. If you have to buy pistons, I'd go with EVO pistons for a little bump in compression and use OEM piston rings on those.

 

[ShowStoppa]

In the process of looking for some Evo Pistons. I will make my final decision on the pistons after the block is disassembled and looked over. I am not going to port the head. I too have heard from various people that there is little gain from porting the head.

 

[Clutch GSX]

In the process of looking for some Evo Pistons. I will make my final decision on the pistons after the block is disassembled and looked over. I am not going to port the head. I too have heard from various people that there is little gain from porting the head.

With a 2G head I would disagree but obviously it's up to you. If your guides or valve seats are worn or damaged in any way you will run much more reliably and efficiently if those are fixed. I always get at least minor porting and a valve job done when I rebuild any engine. Just as I get the cylinders bored and decks milled. I certainly wouldn't get a full race port but removing the casting lines, doing a VJ and smoothing the bowl can only help flow and efficiency which equals power and reliablity. A flow test will prove the gains. Is it worth the $600? It's up to you, but it will perform better.

 

[ShowStoppa]

The rebuild includes new valves, springs, retainers, and decking. The entire head is getting worked over. The only original parts that will be on my head are the cams and cam gears.

I owned the car for nearly three years and only driven her for 1k miles!! For the first time i will be able to drive my car when it is nearly 100% Reliable. I am going for a mild build with my current motor and down the road i will be picking up a 6 Bolt and slowly building it piece by piece.

 

[ShowStoppa]

Just got back from dropping the car off at the shop. When i arrived my confidence in the shop owner skyrocketed when i saw how many DSM's he had parked around the shop. I counted 13 in total. I wish i had my camera to take a pic and show you guys. When i return to pick up my car i will try to take some pics if the cars are still there plus post the build pics.

 

[ShowStoppa]

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[ShowStoppa]

Well it looks like i will need the following items replaced. What do you guys think about the prices? They do include the labor.

Rebuild 4G63 engine. $1800

Crank Sensor & Cam Sensor Both for $130

Clutch Kit Premium-ACT 2100 $400

Resurface Flywheel $50

Mount Intercooler this includes j pipe, clamps, joints, bolts, and mounting it properly to car. $300

Axle Busted. This includes removal and installing $100 ‘

Rewrap complete wiring harness, protects from shorts, cuts and heat. $100

Engine / Transmission Mounts 4 total 3 aren’t in the best shape four full urethane mounts $250

Diagnose Mass air flow Issue ecu wiring Ect. $50 No sure what parts might be needed?

Replace various hoses clamps small to large, heater core, all except main radiator. $75

$3255 total

 

[JusMX141]

Sounds to me like.....

i will have to tackle the Maf issue i am having. When i plug my Maf Sensor the motor bucks violently then stalls out. I have tried 3-4 known working Maf sensors, replaced plugs, wires, filters and Yes checked the timing.

....caused the problem of.....

I also changed my oil and literarily .2 miles of driving the oil turned flat black and was contaminated with fuel. Their is Black smoke coming out my exhaust in between shifts, when i hit the throttle at idle and start up.

....which ruined the oil's film strength and caused....

I am rebuilding because of a bearing in the process of completely spun. I have found metal shavings in my oil dipstick and hear the same knock that i heard 3 years ago.

It's a vicious circle.

 

[ShowStoppa]

So the motor is finally done. Fully balanced. Balance shaft elimination kit. Installed the FMIC and ACT 2100. Replaced every part that was not working correctly then it's comes time to fire her up.

At the first crank she wouldn't turn over. Everything was tested with a working part. Coil pack/Maf/ Sensor everything. It cranked over then It started to misfire, held a really rough idle for 1 minute then it jumped timing. When the timing jumped the head went to shit. bent 7 valves, a pin on the camshaft so we replace it with another head. After everything possible was double, triple checked the culprit was found.

2 Years ago i posted some questions about the wiring harness. Well it turns out i need another one. The one that currently powers the car was swapped with a shorted out harness. Today we will be placing a known working harness and attempt to fire it up once more.

Well it's worse than a harness. It was the Brand New OEM oil pump. The for some reason it seized which caused the timing to jump.