The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

rebuild seals for a 14b?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

91-gsx

15+ Year Contributor
932
11
Mar 31, 2005
San Jose, California
i am currently rebuilding mine and this is the kit off of ebay that i bought.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMP...33742QQitemZ8047356128QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

there is this kit i just found on ebay,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Genu...33742QQitemZ8048452000QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
but your lucky i know what is in the kit because for this kit they claim it is a genuine mitsubishi rebuild kit, but it has all the same parts as the kit i bought above which is cheaper. and yes it comes with oil seals and the compressor seal that you were looking for.

hope this helps, and for your information, rebuilding a 14b is not hard(thought it was), so you might as well rebuild and port that thing for performance while you are at it if you have not already done so.
later
 
I was wanting to know if you can get all of the seals for a 14b? Mine is leaking air between the compresser and the center section when leak testing. Might be a crack? I am not sure. I don't want to spend half of a new turbo trying to fix this one but, if I can get the seal taht would be good.
 
Yes, you can buy a rebuild kit for it. I just picked one up on the internet for like 80. Had a full kit with everything you need to replace. Shop around for the best prices. I found a company on Ebay that was reputable turbo dealer. Sorry I cant remember the name offf hand though.
 
I put in the new seal that was leaking and all is well there but, it leaks a tad into the oil feed and return fittings when pressure testing on a bench. There is very little shaft play. I just don't want to take the shaft apart because then it has to be high speed ballanced and have new bearings. The car has never burned oil or anything and the turbo has no problems otherwise. It leaks so little that you can put your fingers over the oil feed and return and barly feel the air at 50psi so, I think it will be fine. What do you think?
 
What psi are you planning to run? And if you're willing to, there's a few places that will balance a turbo for you for around 50 bucks. So if you pull it apart you still might be able to fix it all up real nice for pretty cheap.
 
I am going to run 8psi daily and 14psi at the track but, I want it to be relieable. If I have to put any more money into this turbo I might as well just upgrade to a 16g when this one dies.
 
14psi on a 14b on the track? You're kidding right? You can handle 14psi reliably on stock fuel systems for street use. Push more man, if you're rebuilding the 14b you might as well get moneys worth and just run 14psi DD and maybe 18psi at the track(with the proper fuel mods).
 
Well this has a n/t bottom end with stock 9 to 1 pistons so I was told I could run 19 at the track but, with c16, I don't want to push it because I have an awd for good track numbers. This is just my DD and I still plan on running c16 at 14psi.
 
I'd read up a little on it man, with that fuel you could run a lot, even on 9:1. Just run a logger and make some passes with different boost levels. But i still say 14 seems alright for DD. Are you going to be DD-ing with c16?
 
no daily I am running 91 pump which is the highest we can get here. I really don't know how much boost the n/t pistons can handle. I have the complete turbo setup though on it with the knock sencor and all. I think the n/t pistons are just less resistant to detonation so if detonation ocured it would possibly brake the ring glands which I don't want happening.
 
staticbrainwash said:
Run 17 then, or I'd say at least 15 street and 17-18 track. Espically on c16.

Just for reference the mods on my DD are 2gmass with (screw flesh, outer honey comes removed) 3" intake pipe, 2.5" uicp, 2.5" turbo back, no cat, ported 14b, ported exhaust man, cyclone intake ported, walbro 190, safc2, mmcd logger.
 
Add 550's to that maybe just to be safe and tune her up for a little safer boost. Just MAKE SURE you log. I'm no expert on n/t pistons, so just play it safe maybe.

Why r u running an n/t bottom end? And with AWD? I assume you pulled the block at some point.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top