The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support Rix Racing

1G Rear balance shaft bearing came loose

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ok, glad you are aware and that it won't be a problem. I will be in a similar boat as you with oil pressure with the BSE in my build, except my NT block doesn't have oil squirters so I will have to keep an eye on oil pressure as well. I pre-emptively ported my 1990 oil filter housing as much as I felt comfortable with... I'm hoping that my oil pressure stays reasonable. Good luck!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Thanks man. Yeah I have it ported now and will open it a bit more too. I’ll probably shape it like yours. Not sure if you’re aware but the 90 ofh increases pressure to begin with. I had 2 1.5mm crush washers on the nut and pressure was great. You can always adjust the pressure. Need more, shim the spring. Need less, shim the nut. I do this with the timing cover off so it’s easy to access.

Once it is installed with the stub shaft, gear cover and oil in it, it shouldn't move like that.
Right. Just didn’t know if it’s suppose to be that way without being assembled.
 
Thanks man. Yeah I have it ported now and will open it a bit more too. I’ll probably shape it like yours. Not sure if you’re aware but the 90 ofh increases pressure to begin with. I had 2 1.5mm crush washers on the nut and pressure was great. You can always adjust the pressure. Need more, shim the spring. Need less, shim the nut. I do this with the timing cover off so it’s easy to access.
JNZ tuning also sells an OEM "low pressure" spring, should you decide that you need it...

 
JNZ tuning also sells an OEM "low pressure" spring, should you decide that you need it...

Oh I didn’t know that. I actually removed a mm on my spring by grinding it down a little on both sides.
 
JNZ tuning also sells an OEM "low pressure" spring, should you decide that you need it...

Yeah that spring is from other cars. That would basically have the same effect as shimming.
 
Yeah that spring is from other cars. That would basically have the same effect as shimming.
Yup. If you grinded down the spring 1mm and shimmed, then you’d basically have the same result as the shorter spring, which I measured to be about 2.8mm shorter than the regular one.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Yup. If you grinded down the spring 1mm and shimmed, then you’d basically have the same result as the shorter spring, which I measured to be about 2.8mm shorter than the regular one.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
In my case, one washer lowered approximately 10 psi on high side pressure. I have added 2 more washers.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/quick-oil-pressure-question.532564/post-153788814
 
For the balance shaft tensioner bolt hole, do you leave it or run a shorter bolt?
I've left the tensioner in place (with no belt) before, but in this build I decided to run a shorter bolt with some RTV on it. Should be fine either way.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I've left the tensioner in place (with no belt) before, but in this build I decided to run a shorter bolt with some RTV on it. Should be fine either way.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Think I’ll run a short bolt too with a copper crush washer (to not score it) and loctite.
 
If you don't put a bolt back in that hole, you will be chasing a oil leak. It is right between the 2 oil passages and WILL leak if you don't plug it. Simple RTV works fine so I suppose a crush washer and thread locker would work....but I would put some sealer on it.
My 1st DSM, the "Army Mechanics" didn't put anything back in that hole and I chased that oil leak for a month, but I didn't know diddly squat about DSM's then.
 
If you don't put a bolt back in that hole, you will be chasing a oil leak. It is right between the 2 oil passages and WILL leak if you don't plug it. Simple RTV works fine so I suppose a crush washer and thread locker would work....but I would put some sealer on it.
My 1st DSM, the "Army Mechanics" didn't put anything back in that hole and I chased that oil leak for a month, but I didn't know diddly squat about DSM's then.
Good to know!

If you don't put a bolt back in that hole, you will be chasing a oil leak. It is right between the 2 oil passages and WILL leak if you don't plug it. Simple RTV works fine so I suppose a crush washer and thread locker would work....but I would put some sealer on it.
My 1st DSM, the "Army Mechanics" didn't put anything back in that hole and I chased that oil leak for a month, but I didn't know diddly squat about DSM's then.
Marty, no oil passage for the bs tensioner bolt hole.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Wrong bolt holes. The tensioner pulley hole is the one you need to address. Your pic shows the two hydraulic tensioner bolt holes.
Just lined up the front case. It’s the correct hole. Engine is horizontal in the previous pic.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Just want to make sure I inspect everything in the oil system. So that bearing is feed by the balance shaft directly from the oil pump/pick up. Is that correct? So as long as those are ok, I should have a problem.

Also, anyone have one of these with balance shaft and squirters?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Just lined up the front case. It’s the correct hole. Engine is horizontal in the previous pic.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
The one marked with the BLUE arrow is the one you need a bolt in Tony.
 
The one marked with the BLUE arrow is the one you need a bolt in Tony.
Right but it’s not an oil galley. I’m guessing the bolt needs to be installed for the front case to seal against the block.
 
Yes. When the oil pressure comes up, that bolt is right between the 2 main oil passages and holds the gasket tight, otherwise you get the leak there and it was hard for me to pinpoint.
 
Thought about this too and wanted to show you while you were in there. I have one somewhere, to replace the balance sprocket on the crank.

 
Thought about this too and wanted to show you while you were in there. I have one somewhere, to replace the balance sprocket on the crank.

Damn it! Should have picked one up. Parts should be delivered today, so I'll probably just roll with the stock sprocket. Thanks for sharing that!

In the BSE kit, why do they include the bearing for rear balance shaft. There's no port in the block. I only ordered the stub shaft and cover for front balance shaft.
 
Did they just send you the complete bearing set? I got one that way.
 
Did they just send you the complete bearing set? I got one that way.
No I just flipped the two bearings for the front BS and left out the rear BS bearing for obvious reasons. When I looked at the kit, it came with 3 bearings. I only ordered the stub shaft & plug.
 
So you got FREE BS bearings? Put them on the shelf for later!
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top