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rabenne's street car

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Deposit paid to MF. 11 week lead. t3 hot parts kit with wg dump to atmosphere.

Also ordered a Tial 44mm MVR wastegate to go on it, new couplers, and made of list of other crap I still need.

1) stainless studs (ARPs are crazy. probably ssstuds.com)
2) intake pipe - ideally a used FP w/ or w/o recircb (X)
3) new exhaust gaskets (X)
4) redo exhaust after MF downpipe to line it all up
5) injectors - 1650cc FIC from 1000cc (X)
6) fuel pump - walbro 450 from 255 (X, 535)
7) fuel tank to filter upgrade - 1/2" aluminum tube to 8an hoses from 6an, stock feed as new return
8) rear diff rebuild - new bearings/seals before it gets a new level of abuse.
 
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exhaust gaskets - ordered
v-band to hose adapter (compressor discharge adapter)- ordered
2.5" 90 deg coupler (for VRSF kit)- ordered
4" coupler straight - ordered
4" clamps - ordered

still got a few things left on the list. trying to source a used FP intake pipe, but it seems only hacked up pipes are for sale right now.

The injectors are going to be painful to buy - but I will likely sell my FIC 1000CC hi Z to recoup some of the expense.

Getting pretty excited!
 
Yes, yes it is. But I have 11 weeks to pull this stuff together before the manifold arrives. Feels like a long time, but I also have to finish the 2g head I am building and get that bolted on as well. Plus I am past due for sending the steering rack to EMW to get the quaife manual gearing installed. I guess its a good time to stick the RM sway bar on when that is all going back together.

There is a decent sized pile of parts in my living room and kitchen waiting to go on this car... I will give better updates when the project starts gaining momentum again.
 
There is a decent sized pile of parts in my living room and kitchen waiting to go on this car
Literally, this is my life sometimes LOL. I like to place my new parts on the kitchen table that way I have to stare at them as I eat breakfast as a reminder to install them. Sometimes they end up on the couch, the counter etc etc. But eventually they end up on the car!
 
I need to figure out if it will actually work. I haven't tried taking any measurements yet... but if nothing else, a bit of cutting and welding on one of those may simplify things. I will have to add a fitting to the bottom for the PCV setup anyway.

I had a guy on here offer to sell me a FP intake for a reasonable price, but they had the PCV port welded on the top of the pipe, and it was powder coated wrinkle gray. Def not perfect, but a viable option for $50. Probably could just run the pipe backwards to put the fitting on the bottom...
 
Easily done. Just need to tap it. I have an extra IM and stole a fitting off of it. Pretty sure you’re on SD so you don’t have to worry about leaks

image.jpg
 
What turbo Will? Do you need a 4" intake for it or a smaller DSM turbo?
For my Holset I used these.....
$13.09 for the 45* coupler https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-45-Degree-ELBOW-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-INTAKE-SILICONE-COUPLER-HOSE-T-CLAMP/262463176923?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

$25.00 for the 45* Pipe https://www.ebay.com/itm/102mm-4-inch-45-Degree-Aluminum-Turbo-Intercooler-Pipe-Piping-Tubing-Hose/263869835853?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


Then put a Spectre air filter on the end and you are done. I made mine too.
$38.09 total, less the filter.
 
@1990TSIAWDTALON

The HX40. I am not sure 3mm wall thickness gets me enough threads to feel confident. I run a -10 hose from the catch can to the intake pipe, so I will likely weld a small rectangular plate to the bottom and drill and tap that (worked great with steel on my dejon pipe).

I'm not against the idea of using a 45 coupler and 45 pipe...
I will probably end up waiting until I have the turbo bolted up before I make a final decision for the intake pipe.
 
Just didn't want you to "waste" money if you could piece together what you needed instead of buying a "kit". :thumb:
I have a STM intake on my Red Talon and the Blue 92's I made. They both look identical FWIW.
I am not running a catch can tho.
 
I am def not paying someone for a kit at this point! I already purchased the 4" coupler and clamps. I have a 4" filter on-hand, so it shouldn't hurt too bad.

I spent $1,6XX.XX on the manifold (edit: hot parts kit) so I am not that worried about the cost, I just don't see paying FP $100 for a bare tube.
 
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found what seems to be a very reasonable source of stainless steel exhaust studs. A company called belmetric has the sizes I need to piece together a kit (m8 & m10) with SS studs, copper flange nuts, and extra thick, hardened washers for $35 shipped. That even included spares of everything.

Just thought I would share because its $14 cheaper than SSStuds.com



EDIT: I decided to do some research before placing my order and it seems that A2 stainless loses its ability to protect from corrosion with repeated exposures to something like 1600F. The 300 series stainless steels are better at protecting from corrosion at extreme temperatures.

So I got on ssstuds.com and went thru his Q&A. He uses 347 stainless so I will end up buying from him instead. I could keep trying to source them cheaper, but ssstuds is well proven, so why bother trying to save a few bucks.
 
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32831559294.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dumLKkF

found this cheapo 4" z-bend pipe on aliexpress for under $30. It is 4" longer which means more tube to hack if necessary, but at 1.8mm thick vs 3.0mm thick on the one from amazon, it may be a bit trickier to weld. on the other hand - weight savings LOL On its way now!
1.8 vs 3mm alloy is not a huge difference in weight, its barely noticeable. It should weld just fine if its nice material thats the main concern over thickness
 
@ec17pse , I know the weight is negligible, that was a joke!!

I assume both of the cheapo aluminum pipes will be garbage material. I have heard alumaloy rods work better on that crap that just about anything. Have you messed with that kind of thing before? Other recommendations for not burning thru trying weld a thick 10an bung onto the pipe?
 
@ec17pse , I know the weight is negligible, that was a joke!!

I assume both of the cheapo aluminum pipes will be garbage material. I have heard alumaloy rods work better on that crap that just about anything. Have you messed with that kind of thing before? Other recommendations for not burning thru trying weld a thick 10an bung onto the pipe?
I missed the weight part of the joke LOL

If you got a thick bung then can either turn it down to be a smaller base or weld onto the bung then flick the arc onto the pipe that way you wont blow a hole through it
 
I have heard alumaloy rods
I personally think that is a scam. I see those ads all over social media, but I don't trust it a bit.

You can try it if you want to, I'd actually like to see if it works. But it just seems too good to be true.
 
It worked pretty well for the IAT bung on my thin pipes for VRSF FMIC. It goes on ugly but it cleaned up nice with a die grinder. (ill try to add a pic later)

Still curious if there is a better way. I don't have a tig welder so my options are pretty limited anyway.
 
Sol,
if you search them on amazon they are averaging 4 stars with over 100 purchases. I think you are being silly. They work fine if you are using them within their limitations. Its not welding, its more like soldering with a fairly strong solder.
 
Sol,
if you search them on amazon they are averaging 4 stars with over 100 purchases. I think you are being silly. They work fine if you are using them within their limitations. Its not welding, its more like soldering with a fairly strong solder.
It's just the material that I have an issue with. They say "stronger than welds". I don't believe that something you can melt with a lighter is stronger that something you would weld with a tig. I don't believe that it would even be close.

I'm not sure if you have Instagram or not, but I get those ads for this material daily, and every time they come out with a new video of "welding" some random crap together. All of the comments on those videos say that it is a scam LOL.

Hey man, if you think you can make it work then go for it. All I'm saying is that this is a product from China that is meant to help people cut corners. I'm curious to see how it turns out. Post some pics or maybe a video if you do it. ;)
 
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