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Quick build questions, JayRacing alt relocation, other semi cool ish

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drivemusicnow

15+ Year Contributor
1,444
30
Nov 15, 2004
Germany, Europe
First off, let me preface some of the pictures. I am putting a whole lot of new parts on so I figured it would be smart to mock everything up on the engine stand before I got it all in cramped quarters.. Plus it's a hell of a lot easier to bolt everything together in a big garage with lots of light, figuring out all the bolts that i've forgotten, all the stuff that isnt quite "bolt on" and such and then un bolt, throw engine in car, and re-bolt.. then it is to deal with it all in the engine bay. Oh yeah, and If you see anything stupid, please tell me. I don't want to forget something dumb. (I'm going to fix the oil feed line to the turbo with a 90* elbow.)


Because the JayRacing.com alteranator relocation thread is in the vendor announcements, I'll post the pictures here. (cool product, awesome vendor, quality design.) I forgot to take pictures before I put it on because I was a little excited to get it. anywho, on to the pictures.

The second to last picture (002) shows the alt kit from a few feet away while the First one (003) shows it a little closer. You can see how (i think it's the resistor) doesn't fit with the rod end tensioner placed where it is. Not really a problem as that's easily moveable.

The next picture(009) shows the belt configuration.

Picture 010 then shows the motor mount that needs to be filed down. Really there is enough clearance as it is (tight, but still clear) but I'll file the mount down 1/16th" because the directions say so.

Picture 011 shows the Evo3 oil filter housing that I'm running It shows how you can run your turbo oil feed line, your idiot light sensor, your external oil cooler, and I have both the stock and an aftermarket oil pressure gauge sender all off the oil filter housing.

The last picture (005) is self explanitory.

This is a 2.3 stroker motor running JE pistons and Eagle H beam rods. Stock head for now, but this will probably change once I graduate. FP Green turbo bolted to the SBR exhaust manifold (I don't recommend it, but i'm sure it will work) Tial 38mm external wastegate that I will be running some tubing to the side of the car for now. I have the O2 eliminator 3 inch downpipe from VRS (i'm fabbing up the rest of it), and you can sort of see the EGT and wideband o2 sensors that I threw in there. I'll be fabbing up some heat shields and such to protect the PS and keep as much heat as possible in the exhaust. I think that about covers everything you see in the pic.
 

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Looks like a very nice build!:thumb:
Where in chicago are you located? I'd love to see this thing in person if you don't mind.

Only thing I noticed, is that tensioner pulley supposed to be like that? When I did my timing and from all the threads I've read, pinholes are supposed to be at 6 and 4 o'clock.
 
I'm actually a poseur and say chicago, even though I live way the hell out in Crystal Lake. LOL. I used to live in Evanston and still spend alot of time in the city, but the car and engine are out in CL. Anyone is more than welcome to stop by and take a look. Just send me a PM.

I didn't pay attention to where the pin holes were, I just made it so that the tensioner was extended the proper amount. Mine is extended 4mm which is in spec. I think the Greddy timing belt is a little tighter than a stocker which may explain this. (it was free) I'm not sure if this is correct, but I don't seem to remember the TSB saying anything about the hole location.
 
Looks awesome, i've been debating that for a while now.

It's cool to see some chicago people on, i'll be down there in like august to go to the illinois institute or art. Then uti. I'd like to meet the crews there real quick.
 
looks good, i hope you are putting on the timing cover...
 
Yeah, before I put it into the car the exhaust tract is coming all back off, as well as the alternator. I'm bolting the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate on as well as the trans and starter and going to drop all of that in together. It's tight, but it works. Then I'll bolt up the exhaust tract and through the timing cover on and such. I HATE dealing with bolting the trans and engine together after one is already in the car.

I've still got a page long list of little ish to take care of, including all the fabrication, wiring, and installing some replacement parts like throttle cable, ebrake cable etc.

Oh, and If anyone likes beer or wiring... Let me know. I'll be happy to provide the beer for the amount of wiring I have to do =-P
 
I thought the pulley holes were supposed to be at the exact same level and facing down ( maybe up). You also need to make sure the tensioner is pushed all the way up, there is a little bit of play in how it can sit.

You better read the manual and make sure.
 
I'm almost positive the pulley holes don't mean squat. The TSB does not mention them as how you set the tensioner. It may be that is how some people do it, I don't know, but if you look at the TSB, you're supposed to make it (adjust the pulley) such that the tensioner rod only extends 3.8 to 4.5 mm outside of the tensioner body.This is true in my case (~4mm) and therefore I'm happy with it. The holes are there in order for a special tool (jayracing sells it) so that you can apply the correct torque to the pulley before you bolt it in place. This "should" allow you to get it right the first time rather than having to compress and check the tensioner a couple times before you have an acceptable measurement.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

Oh, and I'll drink anything... I think some Tito's vodka would be awesome... minus the fact that you'd probably end up with some interesting wiring.
 
Soo I can't find my car's laptop (which sucks) that has my CD manuals on it.

I have no idea what these two bolt holes are for. They seem like they might be for the crank position sensor on the later model 7 bolts, but I'm not quite sure. ANy help?
 

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I just replaced my crank position sensor, you circled the wrong holes, it's actually these holes which the CPS bolt onto.
 

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If they are not for the timing cover then they are not to be worried about.
 
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