Questions for Justin...

[Spanky_DSM]

TEC Tdo5h 18g? Hows their quality?


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/454374-what-turbo-tdo5h.html#post153169627

 

[pagosa dsm]

hi Justin
I hope you can help me with this problem with my hx 35. I have a hx 35 8 blade with . 55 bep housing. I am experiencing compressor surge at 3000rpm and at 10 psi. I live at 7500 ft and travel down to 6500ft to Durango. I would drive up to Wolf Creek pass at 11,000 ft.
I have stock cams, 2nd gen maf, afc, 550 inj. In your threads it is common to have this problem with the .55 housing. Can you recomend a solution for my problem.
thanks Rick

hi Justin
I changed the cams to HKS 272s. I have this same problem. Do you have any sugestions. I checked the ign. timing , it is at factory specs
Thanks Rick

 

[JusMX141]

I just rebuild a 16g fallowing your tutorial. When I turn the turbine it would have a little drag/binding feel, but once I turn pass it, it spins smooth until it gets back to that section again.

Could it be that it may have a bent shaft?

Possible bent shaft, deformed thrust plate and/or collar, bent sealing ring, pinched sealing ring groove, worn sealing area on the center housing....it could be a pile of different issues. This is one of the reasons I don't always urge folks to upgrade turbos themselves unless the turbo was a working unit before it was disassembled....if it was blown, it's best to have a professional inspect the shaft, sealing ring bore and groove, and journals for wear before assembly.

Ok that makes sense. However when I purchased the car I gave the car a thorough inspection and when I spun the turbine it spun for almost 5-6 secs. Now (15-20k later) it spins for maybe a 2 secs at the most. Hense the reason Ive pulled it off for inspection.

It's probably fine. Without warm oil and without being mounted to the car, a journal bearing turbo will seem to have drag. Now if it stops immediately after letting go of the shaft, you have issues.

TEC Tdo5h 18g? Hows their quality?

TEC is a rebuilder- they don't build new turbos. You have a MHI 18G, basically....so as long as it's tight, didn't come from a car with a blown engine, and the turbine isn't dripping with oil, you're safe to use it.

 

[dj-t]

Possible bent shaft, deformed thrust plate and/or collar, bent sealing ring, pinched sealing ring groove, worn sealing area on the center housing....it could be a pile of different issues. This is one of the reasons I don't always urge folks to upgrade turbos themselves unless the turbo was a working unit before it was disassembled....if it was blown, it's best to have a professional inspect the shaft, sealing ring bore and groove, and journals for wear before assembly.

Everything is new except for the center housing. I reassemble it a few times to make sure everything look right. But still the same results. Mind sharing what to look for or steps when inspect the center housing for abnormal wear?

 

[whe3ls]

Another question for you justin. if I can't remove the 3/8 plug from the oil filter housing, can I use the port for the dummy light on the non turbo ofh?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Weld a bolt in to the stripped hole and pull it out, i did worked great.

 

[JusMX141]

hi Justin
I changed the cams to HKS 272s. I have this same problem. Do you have any sugestions. I checked the ign. timing , it is at factory specs
Thanks Rick

Not sure- I have zero experience with how turbos react to high altitudes as it never goes above 2500-3000ft around here. My suggestion came from my experience with others having surge issues using 50+ lb/min turbos on stock cams. However, I'm still confused as to how a surge-ported HX35 is surging.

Everything is new except for the center housing. I reassemble it a few times to make sure everything look right. But still the same results. Mind sharing what to look for or steps when inspect the center housing for abnormal wear?

What parts kit are you using? Sometimes if there's a wider thrust collar in the kit it will rub the center housing just below where the oil feed for the thrust plate is.

Another question for you justin. if I can't remove the 3/8 plug from the oil filter housing, can I use the port for the dummy light on the non turbo ofh?

Use lots of heat on the housing around the plug and a breaker bar on the allen socket. I've yet to come across a plug that wouldn't come loose.

If all else fails or if the plug is stripped, you can use the 1/8" port for the pressure switch.

 

[Devilsfutbol17]

Justin,
I am replacing my 13g with a 14b and I wondering which 14b I should use.

The one on the left has a little bit of shaft play, while the one on the right has no play. But the one on the right looks really odd on the turbine side.

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Is there something wrong with the turbo on the right?

Here is the corresponding o2 housing to the turbo on the right.

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[JusMX141]

Use the one on the left which shows no evidence of oil leakage....buy a rebuild kit for the one on the right, rebuild it yourself, and keep it as a spare for when the one on the left with more shaft play eventually fails.

 

[Devilsfutbol17]

Thank you.

 

[NHerron]

Justin what do you think about this? Pretty detailed video in the link

Just sorta wondering if it's a good idea and how one would incorporate the idea into a DSM.

Performance Diesel Inc - Big Boss Turbo

Thanks for looking

 

[JusMX141]

Looks interesting, but I don't think it would really apply to a gasoline performance application. Price seems fairly competitive in comparison to the price of a new Holset or Garrett VGT unit.

 

[H@xtGSX]

You theoretically wouldn't have to goof around with making the VGT work without ECU control... But you can get an HE351 with VGT for dirt cheap, usually because the electronic controls failed, and rig it up to a wastegate actuator for a fairly effective VGT for less than $750... At $2400, those seem pricey for a fixed vane turbine housing.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

What size npt fitting should I weld into my J-pipe for my evo III 16g? I was looking at 1/8 NPT weld in bungs with a 1/8 nipple fitting but that seems too big for the nipple on the wastegate actuator.

Should I get a 1/8 bung with a 1/16 nipple for the hose that connects to the wastegate nipple?

It's so hard to tell the sizes online but this is supposedly a 1/8 and that looks WAY too big for the nipple on the stock actuator for the 16g:

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On the flip side, this seems more appropriate and is labled as a 1/16 but I just don't have anything to compare the picture to:
1/8 to 1/16 nipple fitting

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[NHerron]

This
1/8" NPT Female Threaded Weld Bung Stainless | eBay

plus this
90º Elbow Brass Barb Fitting 3/16" Hose x 1/8" NPT | eBay

Equals this
Evo3 16G J pipe to WG setup



1/8" referes to the ID of the threaded portion, this system is known as pipe thread. So a 1/8" NPT x 3/16" nipple would be perfect for you're setup. Silicone hoses are the bees knees

 

[dj-t]

What parts kit are you using? Sometimes if there's a wider thrust collar in the kit it will rub the center housing just below where the oil feed for the thrust plate is.

I used the kamak rebuild kit tdo5/tdo6 Super back.

 

[YZFR1]

Does anyone know what kind of compressor outlet elbow is on this turbo? Thanks

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[JayB12]

It is probably something ebay in a kit for the for the stock SMIC. Almost the same as the stock 1g pipe minus a nipple for the boost source.

 

[JusMX141]

What size npt fitting should I weld into my J-pipe for my evo III 16g?

I try to keep it the same size as the nipple on the gate so there are no restrictions in the system, nor do you need to use any type of reducer to connect the hose. Most external gates are a 1/4" hose barb, so I'd say 1/4" would be your best bet.

I used the kamak rebuild kit tdo5/tdo6 Super back.

Their wider thrust collar is likely rubbing the center housing and causing your drag issue. You can either swap to a thinner OEM-style collar, or mod the center housing a bit so it doesn't rub.

Does anyone know what kind of compressor outlet elbow is on this turbo? Thanks

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I've seen a couple this style which came in an eBay FMIC kit....though I'm sure it's a copy of someone's design.

 

[dj-t]

There wider thrust collar is likely rubbing the center housing and causing your drag issue. You can either swap to a thinner OEM-style collar, or mod the center housing a bit so it doesn't rub.

Reinstalled the OEM thrust collar and no more drag. Thank you so much for your time and help.

 

[Marc91GSX]

Justin, I am looking for some advice here. I want a turbo that it is completely bolt on, spools fast as possible and makes the most possible power. What would you recommend?


On a more serious note, my goals are pretty close to that but I already have an actual plan. I have a Buschur 3" dp, evo 3 O2 (ported), and an FP cast manifold. I unfortunately no longer have my Evo 3 and am looking for a little more hit than that anyways. My plan is to use the Kawaski Billet wheel that you posted in this thread, the Kinugawa 3" anti-surge compressor housing, and that is where I become stuck. I don't want to buy a 16g just to put all of this stuff on there and I know for a fact that I want more power than I had from the E3 in street trim. Can I put these parts on to one of my 14b turbos and what turbine housing/wheel would you recommend I go with?

 

[JusMX141]

On a more serious note, my goals are pretty close to that but I already have an actual plan. I have a Buschur 3" dp, evo 3 O2 (ported), and an FP cast manifold. I unfortunately no longer have my Evo 3 and am looking for a little more hit than that anyways. My plan is to use the Kawaski Billet wheel that you posted in this thread, the Kinugawa 3" anti-surge compressor housing, and that is where I become stuck. I don't want to buy a 16g just to put all of this stuff on there and I know for a fact that I want more power than I had from the E3 in street trim.

If you're strictly going for max-performance, you don't want the anti-surge cover. The surge porting robs compressor efficiency in exchange for surge protection. In a situation where the car's a daily driver and you don't know if the turbo's going to surge or not, it's a tough call....but you'd hate to spend the money for a billet wheel and surge-ported cover to have it perform like a cast 20G in a non-ported cover.

Can I put these parts on to one of my 14b turbos

Not without machining the center housing....this information is literally all over this site.

and what turbine housing/wheel would you recommend I go with?

Depends on your goal. Comes down to spool, total airflow production, and type of tuning/fuel being used.

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

What size turbine wheel is this? Its an 11 blade with a 35r compressor. Cant really get the accurate measurement since its not the usual 12 blade

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[H@xtGSX]

That is a T3 77 Trim wheel. Coupled with a 35r, it is a high rpm street/normal drag turbo on a 4g63.

 

[Marc91GSX]

If you're strictly going for max-performance, you don't want the anti-surge cover. The surge porting robs compressor efficiency in exchange for surge protection. In a situation where the car's a daily driver and you don't know if the turbo's going to surge or not, it's a tough call....but you'd hate to spend the money for a billet wheel and surge-ported cover to have it perform like a cast 20G in a non-ported cover.


Not without machining the center housing....this information is literally all over this site.


Depends on your goal. Comes down to spool, total airflow production, and type of tuning/fuel being used.

Yeah, I didn't fully understand what was meant by the machining and was thinking that getting the compressor housing would eliminate the need. That was my bad.

As for my goals, I would like to see more than 45 lb/min with spool around the same as an Evo 3. I would also like to do it for less than the cost of the FP turbo with similar specs. Will the standard turbine wheel in a ported 7cm^2 housing work for that flow? I'm pretty sure I read on here that 44 was the max for a 20g wheel but that Billets flow a little more hence my goals.