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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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CREEP said:
Should I bother with the 140 compression though, would you?

Liek I said drive it and see how strong it runs. 135 is service point so it's not quite there. Honestly for a good shell with mods alone a 1g awd is worth 3500 you can buy another stock shortblock for 600 and throw everything on it and be set with at worse a 5k car and that's only if you don't do the work yourself or have a hook up. good shell + awd + mods > $5k
 
Slippi84 said:
Liek I said drive it and see how strong it runs. 135 is service point so it's not quite there. Honestly for a good shell with mods alone a 1g awd is worth 3500 you can buy another stock shortblock for 600 and throw everything on it and be set with at worse a 5k car and that's only if you don't do the work yourself or have a hook up. good shell + awd + mods > $5k

Car's front wheel drive. Thanks for the input though everyone.
 
Just found out the car I want has a problem with 5th gear. I'm trying to decide if I should go through with it or not. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Here's the deal...
97 AWD TSI, black, grey interior, 115k miles, car looks amazing, lowered, aftermarket intercooler, short throw, full exhaust, intake work, EVO turbo, and a few other odds and ends, seller just told me the car pops out of 5th gear once in a while, I got him down to $5800 from $6500...is it worth it?

I do love the car and it's exactly what I'm looking for, but I'm not sure if the repair will be worth paying $5800 for the car. A friend told me Shep Racing could rebuild the trans to "race spec" for $800, can anyone back this up? If not does anyone know what it would cost to do? I want to rebuild it a little better than stock and I might as well put in a new clutch when I pull the trans.
 
TRE also offers a budget build that will be more than enough for most people. It should run you around 800-900 depending on what else needs to be replaced. I'd say talk him down more; a transmission removal/replacement on our cars is not cheap or fun. Not to mention the cost of a clutch and flywheel resurface.

I can't tell you a good negociating price, but make sure everything else is ok before you start investing alot of money into somebody else's car.
 
Yea I'm trying to get him down more, but it doesn't look like it's going to happen. He said $5800 is rock bottom. I can actually pull the trans and put it back in at work, so I'm not worried about that, I just need it rebuilt by someone else. I'm also trying to figure out what clutch would be good for it.

I'm not going to go balls out with the car, but I'd like mid 13's out of it and for it to be a reliable daily. Any reasonably cheap clutches that are actually good?

Also, keep the opinions coming on buying the car or not.
 
I'm not going to go balls out with the car, but I'd like mid 13's out of it and for it to be a reliable daily. Any reasonably cheap clutches that are actually good?

How does the saying go?

Cheap, Fast, Reliable - Pick Two

In regards to the clutch, I have a ACT2600 and I like it. I dont think a ACT 2100 would be strong enough in a AWD.
 
I'll definately keep that clutch in mind, thanks for the input!

And lets say "technically" I'm only paying $5300 for the car because I'm making $500 profit on the truck I'm selling:D , so again, is it worth the trouble or should I keep looking?
 
Get it and don't look back. Now as for that transmission, you could always just pull the end case off the transmission and look at the 5th gear itself. It just might give you an indication. You wouldn't even have to drop the tranny.

Or you could call up Shep and talk to him. He could tell you what's up and what to look for and what he could do for you.
 
I agree with them sounds like a good deal. I would recomend going with at least a stage 2 tranny from shep since the car has so much done to it already. That will save you money in the ling run. also I would recomend getting a spider diff since launching will kill your stock one. SBR has some good clutches. My friend has I think the 3500 and thats holding 300+ horespower with out a problem and he gives that clutch a good beating. also act 2600 is good too.
 
Hi everyone,
I am currently looking at buying a black 1997 Eclipse GSX, the car has 120,000 origanal miles, its a 5-speed, 18" rims, projector headlights, shaved door handles, and a Injen intake. The used car dealer wants 6,400 for the car. I just got a personal loan for 5,000. I am going to go and try to talk him down. But my question is do you think this vehicle has to many miles on it?....I dont know DSM's and how long they last, but that is alot of miles and it scares me. I was just wondering if any of you had some info for me on a 97 GSX that was most likley abused with 120K?...Thank you for reading......
 
I would worry more about how the car was drove than millage, if the dealer will let you, run a compression check, this will tell you alot. good uniform compression = good rings/pistons.
but the down side is the posibility of crankwalk with the factory 7 bolt motor. usually happens at 120,000-and above. so it's a gamble. if you are unaware of crankwalk do a search, it is everywhere.

Jamie Sanders
1996 GSX, almost every mod possible
 
Yeah i am concered about the miles also, I do have a compression tester. what is good compression on these motors?
 
My car has 180k on it right now, stock everything, needs a clutch at the moment and a rebuild. But when I bought the car at 170k, it drove fine, no problems at all. test drive the car , it should be solid and not stumble.

I bought the car from a really old man though, he was in his 60's, and he pretty much babied the car.

Ask for service documents, etc etc. $6400 isn't that bad, but its definitely not a good deal. Try doing $5800. I bought my car for $5400 w/ 169k miles on it. Also you need to ask yourself the question of whether or not your going to do the 6bolt swap or do an engine rebuild, because if your not, I'd look into a lower mileage GSX.

I bought my car with so many miles on it, and now when its starting to show its true mileage when I'm driving it, I'm starting to regret buying such a high mileage car.
 
I will plan on doing a stroker kit, only because for 2 grand it will replace the pistons and crank, but this wont be for maybe 10-15K miles when i pay off the loan on the car....
 
Dont worry about crank walk, it most likely would have done it by now. Its way overrated. My mechanic gives lifetime warranty against crank walk because of how overrated it is. Also check the turbo for shaft play and make sure thats ok. If should have zero in and out play, but if it does use that to talk him down and make it sound like it would be a grand to replace the turbo.
 
Checking the shaft play on a turbo on the intake side won't really help much. My t25 right now has no shaft play at 180k on the intake side, but I know for a fact that it needs a rebuild.
 
Best thing you can do is take some pics, post them up here and just take the thing for a test drive yourself. Test out all the buttons see if everything seems to be workin and make a good decision for yourself.
 
got a guy buying a 1g in decent shape from me. has a brand new rebuilt head but a blown block. Could be rebuilt. What do you think it's worth in this condition? I'm not sure what to charge him.
 
A little more info on the car might be a good place to start. Is it a Turbo, AWD, or a N/T. I bought my first 1g dsm with a blown motor and paid $500 it was a 1990 laser rs turbo. The body and interior were immaculate. My second was a 90 laser n/t that ran for $300 I used it for a donner car after my first got hit. I hope this helps a little.
 
yes how is the body, is everything else in good shape. Is it AWD, FWD or 5spd. Make it a good deal then if your not sure on what to charge him. Dont take him to the cleaners, as your not sure what else the car is going to need.
 
I paid $200 for my 90 TSI with 160,000 miles and a bad transmission. It had the usual rust in the usual places but was in decent shape.
 
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