XC92
Proven Member
- 1,573
- 358
- Jul 22, 2020
-
Queens,
New_York
So I got my stacks reassembled with new parts and did the solder method yesterday, but many of the measured values seemed way off. Then I realized that I might have done it wrong.
What I did was first install all new or removed bottom (closest to clutch/engine/bellhousing) races into the case sections using a bearing and race installer kit and small hammer, to get them fully, firmly and permanently installed since they don't have shims under them and won't need to be removed again (at least until the next rebuild hopefully many many years from now).
Then I inserted all the solder pieces of the appropriate length and thicknesses and bent to match each race's curvature, secured with grease (I used silicone brake grease because it's what I had handy, I hope that's ok), placed each respective top race over them, and then fully installed them the same as I did with the unshimmed bottom races, with the appropriately-sized bearing/race kit plate and hammer, so they were firmly seated as far as they'd go.
I think that this is where I erred, since I basically smashed those solder pieces as much as they can be smashed, giving thickness readings that had nothing to do with actual preloads or zero values for the gear stacks, diffs and output shaft.
Should I redo it all, this time inserting each top race just enough so they don't fall out when I assemble the case pieces, and let the stacks, shaft and diffs compress them to the proper thickness as the case is bolted to 29 ft-lb?
Also, a different but related question.
Once I got the right thickness values and correct shims and it's time to assemble the trans, I understand that you need to put a drop of green Loctite 290 on the 3 poppet plugs. Why 290 instead of blue, and can I substitute green Permatex 29000 instead?
What I did was first install all new or removed bottom (closest to clutch/engine/bellhousing) races into the case sections using a bearing and race installer kit and small hammer, to get them fully, firmly and permanently installed since they don't have shims under them and won't need to be removed again (at least until the next rebuild hopefully many many years from now).
Then I inserted all the solder pieces of the appropriate length and thicknesses and bent to match each race's curvature, secured with grease (I used silicone brake grease because it's what I had handy, I hope that's ok), placed each respective top race over them, and then fully installed them the same as I did with the unshimmed bottom races, with the appropriately-sized bearing/race kit plate and hammer, so they were firmly seated as far as they'd go.
I think that this is where I erred, since I basically smashed those solder pieces as much as they can be smashed, giving thickness readings that had nothing to do with actual preloads or zero values for the gear stacks, diffs and output shaft.
Should I redo it all, this time inserting each top race just enough so they don't fall out when I assemble the case pieces, and let the stacks, shaft and diffs compress them to the proper thickness as the case is bolted to 29 ft-lb?
Also, a different but related question.
Once I got the right thickness values and correct shims and it's time to assemble the trans, I understand that you need to put a drop of green Loctite 290 on the 3 poppet plugs. Why 290 instead of blue, and can I substitute green Permatex 29000 instead?