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push in the clutch pedal the rpm's drop way down and the car dies

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jujubean

Probationary Member
13
0
Mar 7, 2009
puyallup, Washington
i recently bought a 93 eclipse 2.0 dohc, most of the minor stuff i figured out but there is one thing that stumps me, when the car is cold and i push in the clutch pedal the rpm's drop way down and the car dies. the rpm's drop way down when it is warm too but it does not die. :banghead: also it idles at a low rpm until the engine is warm and then the rpms's go up almost like it is backwards.

any ideas???
 
^^ What he said.
Plus...I can already see it coming ("but it's not a 7-bolt 4g63"), but check for crank end play. Doesn't matter that you have a N/T, any motor can get premature thrust bearing failure.
When my Spyder CW'd it did this a couple of days before I heared the tick of doom. I'd go to push the clutch in and the rpm's would drop like crazy, sometimes causing the motor to die. The end play was so far out of whack, everything was too sloppy in there.

Also, I wonder if having the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts torqued too tight/loose could cause this? Just a thought. Any idea when the clutch was last replaced?

And get the tune-up done :thumb:
 
well if you read the guidelines on the forum you should know that a tune up and proper maintenance before doing anything else is the best money spend.

but if you want to try seafoam to clean the inside of your engine first it would be a good place to start.
 
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My '93 is a 7-bolt. I seem to read that C-walk was a problem with later(2g) engines that came from a different factory, but it is a 7-bolt. The ISC has no idea what the clutch is doing, and usually pushing in the clutch should let the engine pick-up a couple of RPM (especially with cold trans oil), not the other way around.
It sounds bad, but you should definately check for crankwalk. Unless a throw-out bearing could cause that much friction, I don't see how it could be anything else. A TOB that bad would sound like a blender full of i-phones, too, I'd think.
 
Try these things: replace, inspect, clean

Oil Change
Trans fluid
Compression Test
Re time. Crank, Cams, Dizzy. Oil pump.
Plugs
Air Filter
Vacuum leaks.
Vacuum clogs.
i don't know if they are called the same but check what we Honda guys call the IACV(Idle Air Control Valve).. it could be leaking or damaged or malfunctioning.

any absurd or unusual noises at low, high rpms, idle, or under throttle or deceleration?
 
no dizzys on 4g63 LOL... only coil--zys
 
i noticed that the oil pressure slowly drops after sitting at an idle so i know the oil pump needs to be replaced, and the alternator is slowly but surely going. the first thing i did was give it a tune up and put seafoam in the tank. i am going to test the iac motor/valve, i just hope that is not the problem, after the last one i bought for one of the starions i had($500) it was only available through the dealer. no funny noises and it shifts thru gears great.thanks for all your help guys i really appreciate it

P.S. i am a sis not a bro ;)
 
i guess i am not up on all the lingo what do you mean when you ask if it is a 7 bolt?
 
yep jsut climbed under there and checked it's a 7 bolt, that would explain why some of the parts i bought at work for it were wrong
 
i have a 97 talon that dies when i push the clutch in at anytime while driving and it dies when i rev it up. cloud that be from c-walk or the 8lb flywheel?
 
Rather than push the clutch in, pull the car out of gear by unloading the trans. Let off the gas slowly and there should be a point where you are still on the gas, but there is no load on the transmission (not accelerating, not slowing down) and you should be able to easily pull the shifter into neutral.

If the engine still dies when doing this, then you can eliminate a clutch issue as the problem.

If the problem does NOT happen when you do this, but continues to happen when you press the clutch, you have an issue with your clutch or crank.
 
ok. but when i rev it up it dies too. ive put all new sensors ect the crank and cam and a new computer to try and fix it. the kid i got the car from put a stage 4 clutch in it right befor i got it.
 
This one might be out in left field, but check under the dash for any wires that the clutch pedal arm might have rubbed the insulation off of, which could result in a short.

I had an issue in mine with this, there were 2 harnesses that had multiple wires with the insulation stripped clean off them from years of the clutch pedal arm rubbing on them.
 
ya but that wouldnt have anything to do with reving it up and it dies
 
keep us posted on how your progressing with this problem seems as though i just encountered this same dilemma.
 
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I had this problem earlier with my car when i tried changing the diverter valve to a blow off (cheap way) just unhooked the hose that dumped the air back into the intake and plugged up the pipe on the intake. When the car got warm and i went into boost, it sounded awesome but if i went into neutral or pushed the clutch in the car would die or get really close. So first, do you have a BOV or a diverter, if you have a BOV i suggest recirculating the air back into the intake and your idle should sit just fine. This is also assuming your engine has not been tuned and is still stock. Let me know how it goes!:thumb:
 
To the OP, when you push in the clutch, are you in gear sitting at a stand still?

Reason why, say your in 1st and not moving, you push in the clutch and it dies, it could be a improperly adjusted clutch, thus making the clutch "drag" and when it drags you lose rpm and dies. If that sound close, try again and sit in one spot not moving and rev the engine while in 1st and clutch pushed in, if you start to move or creep forward your cluct is dragging, and you need to adjust it.

Hope that helps?
 
SO lets say you're in neutral, not moving, not touching the clutch at all.

You rev the car up and let it fall, does it die?

If so, I dont think it's a clutch issue at all. I would bet it is in the idle control of the engine, or a vac leak.
 
you have to recirculate the bov. the air coming out of it is compensated for by the ecu , whether you have it re circ'd or not, the ecu is adding fuel and is not getting enough air. and that is why you are stalling. if it is crank walk , have someone watch the crank pully while you are stepping on the clutch. if it is moving in and out, there you have it.
 
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