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2G Pump Gas 91 Oct Turbo Decisions... HY35, FP Green, Red!??

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1slowhatch

Proven Member
172
2
Mar 5, 2014
Reno, Nevada
I've got a B16g now.. 96 Talon TSI stock auto. I just did a 3" turbo back exhaust, VRSF style front mount, DSMlink on the way, 1150 injectors, 255 HP Walbro. Stock 7 bolt except for valve springs, fresh head rebuilt, and head studs.

I have to run 91 octane fuel.. I can get E85, but only 1 pump locally. What turbo should I look at for good pump gas performance? Based on several recommendations, I picked up a T3 HY35.. After lots of research, I'm not sure I want to go to a T3 manifold. The car is a daily driver now with all accessories. The stock radiator and fans work well, I like the downpipe, etc.

So... I'm considering selling the Holset stuff and just buying a new Forced Performance turbo while they're on sale. I've considered the 68HTA, but not sure it's enough turbo for my goal (400+ whp). Does the stock Mits flange limit your pump gas performance? I'm not overly concerned with spool time, as I do have a small wet nitrous kit installed to get it on the converter. I think the FP red (Old or new) will possibly be too much for the stock converter. Has anyone run any of these turbos on 91 octane? FP HTA Green?
 
A bigger a/r hotside will result in better pump gas performance compared to a smaller turbine housing by reducing backpressure. A smaller a/r turbine will increase the gas velocity to the turbine wheel which provides more power and higher boost levels at lower rpms. A smaller turbine will also not breathe as well at high rpms which tends to limit peak engine power. A larger turbine does the opposite which the main things being that there is less backpressure and it increases the turbine wheels effective flow capacity resulting in better power at higher rpms. So, with that being said, yes, the stock Mitsu flange does limit your pump gas performance, because of it's size and flow which results in more backpressure compared to a T3 setup.
 
How fast are you trying to go? What is your plan on a convertor?

The looser the hot side the more power it will make on limited octane. I think I'd be considering a hx35 in a .7 bep t3 housing

I'd like to the make most hp the stock 7 bolt short block can handle. I would think a full weight auto awd 2g should easily go 11s with 400 awhp.

I want to retain the stock converter for drivability/cost reasons. I do have nitrous, which should more than make up for the converter. I can get 10 psi on a cool night footbraking it with no nitrous or tuning. A 35 shot will build 20 +psi in a second or so.
 
If your using nitrous I would go with a T3 hands down. .7 bep HX35, on a nice small diameter short runner will do what you want.

You figure the 9cm housing or turbine wheel is too restrictive for good 91 oct #'s? What is it.. around .65 A/R? EDIT: Looks like it's actually quite a bit smaller than that.

Keep the holset and get meth injection.

I've considered that.. but I think I will probably stay Mits flange if I decide to run anything other than straight 91 octane (E85 or water/meth). It will make install much easier, and I know the FP stuff will make all kinds of power with octane help.
 
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The HY will probably do what you want. All my experiences with it are max boost, and yes the hot side is a bit restrictive, but that's trying make 600whp with it.

Do you have a manifold in mind? There should be some pictures of my seutp in my posts. I ran the factory internal gate, and it did a great job of holding 20psi when I first started. I think you could certainly make an 02 housing that would mate to your existing DP.
 
The HY will probably do what you want. All my experiences with it are max boost, and yes the hot side is a bit restrictive, but that's trying make 600whp with it.

Do you have a manifold in mind? There should be some pictures of my seutp in my posts. I ran the factory internal gate, and it did a great job of holding 20psi when I first started. I think you could certainly make an 02 housing that would mate to your existing DP.

I don't know. It looks like I might still be able to get a new T3 Turbonetics cast manifold. If not, probably the ebay special (when they are back in stock) cast manifold. I can do an external gate, as I already have a 38mm Tial gate that will bolt right up. How bad are the feed and drain lines to figure out? Will I be able to keep the stock fans/radiator?
 
Yes I kept stock fans on my 1g. The oil feed and drain is fairly easy. I made mine, .75" barb welded to a steel flange, then a short piece of -12 pushlock onto a -12 pushlock 90*, with a -12 male welded to the pan. it's clean, effective, and much easier to work on than the stupid 2 bolt flange dsm crap.

Oil feed is simple as well, -4 off the OFH straight to the turbo.
 
The HY will probably do what you want. All my experiences with it are max boost, and yes the hot side is a bit restrictive, but that's trying make 600whp with it.

Do you have a manifold in mind? There should be some pictures of my seutp in my posts. I ran the factory internal gate, and it did a great job of holding 20psi when I first started. I think you could certainly make an 02 housing that would mate to your existing DP.

What kind of airflow were you seeing at 20 psi?
 
No idea, that was 2011. I'm assuming it was mid 40's I was on E85 and FIC 750's. They were maxed out 100% idc, and 13:1 AFR at about 20psi. That was with a small CX racing FMIC, stock head 1g intake and reground hks272s.

I think it hit 20psi at about 4000 in 3rd on a stick shift, and pulled great to 8500. I'm honestly thinking about putting it on my beater gallant to see what i can get out of it on 87oct.
 
HP is for high pressure which they make specially for forced induction applications.
 
Ohhhh gotcha.

Well aren't I the asshole :ohdamn:
 

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Red is too big, 68HTA is a little small, FP Green would be just right. I've had everything under the sun, the Green has been my favorite. Great pump gas turbo.
 
A bigger a/r hotside will result in better pump gas performance compared to a smaller turbine housing by reducing backpressure. A smaller a/r turbine will increase the gas velocity to the turbine wheel which provides more power and higher boost levels at lower rpms. A smaller turbine will also not breathe as well at high rpms which tends to limit peak engine power. A larger turbine does the opposite which the main things being that there is less backpressure and it increases the turbine wheels effective flow capacity resulting in better power at higher rpms. So, with that being said, yes, the stock Mitsu flange does limit your pump gas performance, because of it's size and flow which results in more backpressure compared to a T3 setup.


sorry for asking,isn't bigger a/r on hotside will also make more turbo lag? thanks
 
Red is too big, 68HTA is a little small, FP Green would be just right. I've had everything under the sun, the Green has been my favorite. Great pump gas turbo.

I went ahead and decided on the Holset HY35 route. So far lots of fabricating.. Slowly getting there.

I can certainly understand the appeal of the bolt on FP turbos. Sooo much easier to install. How much power have you mad on a green and pump gas? (we only have get 91 octane here).
 

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I haven't dyno'd it with the Green yet or even brought it to my tuner, low 400's on pump seems to be a good number and right where I'd like to be at. After some clean up of small things this winter, I'm planning on getting it tuned for pump and E85 with the switchable maps this spring. It'd be nice to go back and forth without pulling out a laptop.
 
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