The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

Pull the head without re-doing timing?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DsMWookie

15+ Year Contributor
360
0
May 3, 2004
Birmingham, Alabama
I've done this before on Honda's and I saw it done on a 1g a long time ago where you zip tie the cam gears and timing belts together and just put tension on the Tbelt . Then unbolt the head and slide it off to change the head gasket. I really don't want to nor have the ability to do the T belt right now in my drive way. So I really would like to just pull the head and keep the belt on so I can change the head gasket. I know to check the marks after this but have any of you done it personally?
 
dude, if you have the ability to pull the head in the drive way you can redo the timing belt. I too was a little worried about doing it. My friend walked me through it. An hour later all new belts. If you're going to go through the hassle of changing the HG its the perfect time to do the belts. You could zip tie the cam gears together so they wouldn't turn, but how much faith do you put ina couple of plastic zip-ties?? To hold on vaccum lines sure...........but not hold timing.
 
Would be a good time to do the waterpump. Since you'll have the timing belt off.

-T
 
The motor is rebuilt please read whole post new T belt new EVERYTHING.......I can do the Tblet but I would rather just keep it timed and to the side. I am having an issue with my o ringed head and my factory head gasket.
 
Sorry didnt realize I hadn't specified the motor has 0 miles on it hasn't even been cranked. The head is brand new and perfectly straight (so is the block). All seals water pump everything is brand new. As the question asked who has done this personally if at all?
 
You seem to understand how it's done, so just proceed carefully and try it. If you manage to goof it up, just re-time it. It's only a bother because you've not done it. Re-check the timing before firing it up is all.
 
I didn't zip tie anything. I just attached my engine hoist to the head and pulled at an angle. In other words, the transmission side came up about 3/4" and the timing belt side came up about 1/4", just enough to squeeze the old HG out and put in a new one. Some will say that will stretch the timing belt, but with the tensioner in there, and it only coming up about 1/4" i don't think it will be a problem. Obviously, do it at your own risk
 
I followed the RRE zip-tie method when recently replacing my camshafts, so dont' think it much of a stretch to use the same technique for removing the head. Just make sure to keep upward tension on the cam gears, and re-check timing once the head has been re-installed (prior to starting the engine).

Worst case, if timing is off, you'll have to re/re the timing belt :dsm:
 
Ya I could I really wanna take the whole head off so I can inspect it being that theirs 0 miles I need to inspect the block and the head and check for flatness. The motor/headgasket was leaking with 0 miles.
 
I would absolutely not tilt the head and slide in a new gasket even if you didn't have arps. First off , it would be difficult as the dowel pins that locate the head would interfere and second, it would be inadvisable since it would be very unlikely that the head would seal correctly with the new gasket. There are things like RA and gasket residue on both the head and block surfaces to consider. Don't take chances with something so important.

Having said that, DSM90AWD is correct, you will be able to change the head without re-timing the engine if you zip tie the cam gars to the belt, and keep constant upward pressure on the timing belt with the hydraulic tensioner compressed using the special Mitsubishi tool. And be sure to recheck the timing as has been previously recommended. Your main concern is that the timing belt will slip a tooth on the crank gear or oil pump gear when the tension is releasted as the cam gears are pulled from the cams.

You're using a composite gasket with an o-ringed block? Why not a MLS gasket?
 
I have done mine and numerous other's like this.. The same principle applies when doing a cam swap. Zip ties and the tensioner tool and your good to go.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top