The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Street Build Project Onyx (500whp or bust)

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rlbrown1987

10+ Year Contributor
34
2
Feb 9, 2012
Atlanta, Georgia
So for awhile I've been working on a 92 tsi awd that bought for 1500.
I'm still working on fixing some of the things the previous owner had done and I will say it has come a long way.
It's currently on fic 550cc injectors. Wally 255 fuel pump rewired. Small 16g turbo, link v2, and Vrsf fmic.
Plans are to build the head, go with 1250cc injectors, and Borg Warner s300 turbo. I also plan on updating to v3 and going speed density but first like I said still replacing thing that previous owner mucked up.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160607_205826.jpg
    IMG_20160607_205826.jpg
    374 KB · Views: 92
  • IMG_20160727_120855.jpg
    IMG_20160727_120855.jpg
    273 KB · Views: 111
  • IMG_20161021_201944.jpg
    IMG_20161021_201944.jpg
    448.8 KB · Views: 101
  • IMG_20161113_083744.jpg
    IMG_20161113_083744.jpg
    439.3 KB · Views: 101
What are you going to do in the bottom end and the head? BIG injectors, lots of boost and hardware to hold it all together are just the start to 500whp. :)
 
Block wise I wanna keep it stock, I have a spare block that's being built with Manley turbo tuff rods, weisco 9.0:1 pistons with a .20 bore. And eagle crankshaft just in case I fall short of 500 on a stock block with arp studs. As far as the head goes im going to run Gsc 274 cams, 1mm oversized valves on both exhaust and intake side, and Kiggly beehive springs.
 
Any specific reason for going with the Eagle crank? I have one in my motor but I've heard from others I probably shouldn't have gone that route. Reviews seem to be mixed, but it's held up fine for me.
 
I'm running an Eagle crank with Manley H beam plus rods and Manley ceramic coated pistons. Supertech valvetrain with std size valves. ARP everything with L19's. All is working out just fine for me so far. I turn it 8500 all day. Makes a guestimate of 580-619 in link. Feels very strong! Thats just bench racin but the seat of the pants dyno says its respectable.
1650's on E85
HX40@36lbs
 
Great plan, S300SX with the 80mm wheel and 1.00-1.05AR would do it on pump gas. A really efficient 4" intercooler is a must in my opinion so if you have an ebay core ditch that for an ETS with sufficient flow for your future built engine. A large unrestrictive intake pipe and exhaust system with a well flowing top mount divided T4 manifold with 38-44mm wastegates as well.

For fuel you could use a newer oem fuel pump or walbro 190 as a lift pump into a surge tank with two walbro 255's or twin 255's/ single walbro 450 in-tank and a high quality fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter. If the fuel pump rewire is suspect or unknown I would go through it again and even supplement 8 gauge wire fused from the battery to a 75 amp relay instead of the typical 10 gauge, 20/30 relays you see.

With an efficient fuel,induction,exhaust,cylinder head this turbo can meet your goals on 24-26lbs of boost. Stock main and rod bolts, stock pistons and rods etc... I would at minimum pull the engine and measure/inspect the internals this would give you a chance to replace all of the gaskets and properly clean,deburr, level gasket surfaces/ tap,chase threads etc... eheck your cylinder bores and see where your piston to wall clearance and bearing clearances are at etc... New piston rings with larger clearane than stock and a fresh hone which you can do yourself etc... The standard ARP head bolts would be good enought to meet your goals with a composite head gasket.

If you could swing a different intake manifold/throttle body it would help those cams do their work too.

Many people have made that power with A LOT less than what I am talking about but its 2016 and its no fun going to the dyno and running out of fuel or having restrictions limiting power output or springing leaks from random hoses and gaskets
 
Puuurrfect! You can do some awesome stuff with a bone stock 4g63 now, so many high quality parts available, as long as your support system is mega tough you can make some jam! There are aftermarket options out their for rod bolts,main bolts etc... but it doesnt neccessarily mean that you NEED them for what you are doing, there are fancy high quality tri metal bearings etc... but that is not neccessary for every application and money can be put elsewhere to make a car really fun to drive.

Doing this with minimum machine work assuming all bearing clearances are within acceptable limits and the block deck is within acceptable limits for flatness you can file rings and hone the cylinders yourself just enought to break the glaze on the walls thats it. I would clean scrub and clean everything with warm water and dawn then wipe it all down with wd-40, and make sure the block deck is absolutely clean. cool project
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top