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Street Build Project 1g (NBA DSM)

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Yeah considering you can buy 90% of the oem connectors, making it from scratch was a no brainer. I actually cheated a little bit though, so I have an unmolested 1990 harness, then I have my tucked deleted harness from my car. What I did was build the new harness from scratch without the extra loops and length and used new connectors with new wire. If I could replicate the same wire colors, then it would be easy to trouble shoot. To get the precise measurements for the new harness, i used the old tucked harness. I used the unmolested harness to verify wire colors and ecu pin outs. Of course I had to verify fitment in the car , but using measurements from the old tucked harness gave me a good starting point. My next goal is to do the same thing to my fuse box harness and make it into 3 removable sub sections.
Great minds think alike. Unfortunately I got rid of all my harnesses and will be doing half of what you said. Either way, ya done good sir, ya done good. I might steal the idea of subsections though. I did find some nice general fuse boxes at Waytek Wire (online) that you might consider, and they are reasonably priced if you decide not to use the oem fuse box.
 
Great minds think alike. Unfortunately I got rid of all my harnesses and will be doing half of what you said. Either way, ya done good sir, ya done good. I might steal the idea of subsections though. I did find some nice general fuse boxes at Waytek Wire (online) that you might consider, and they are reasonably priced if you decide not to use the oem fuse box.
Yeah considering the oem fuse box is so bulky, I will upgrade to a more updated version. My only drawback will be trying to find connectors. Another option is changing everything over to Deutsch connectors. I will probably start doing some research soon.
 
Update: Greetings fellow tuners, so not much of an update, just fixing small issues here and there and trying to get some tuning done.
I finally got my hood painted and installed, so that’s a plus in my book. Well I did run into some issues. My Jay Racing alternator bracket broke right in half, luckily I was only 5 min away from my house. I read the aluminum brackets had issues, so I upgraded to the steel unit. Also my little one is trying to talk me into building a LR 2.0 LOL.
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Yeah the aluminum one is crap. I've read somewhere that Jay claims it's install error that causes it to break but there isn't anything to screw up. I would only run the steel.
 
Yeah the aluminum one is crap. I've read somewhere that Jay claims it's install error that causes it to break but there isn't anything to screw up. I would only run the steel.
Lol install error, it’s only two bolts. I’m just glad it didn’t happen when I was making pulls. The steel one is so much beefier.
 
my cars and coffee here in colorado is way up in the mountains, its about an hr or so drive which means no sleep the night before LOL one day ill get up that early and check it out....one day LOL
 
Update time

How’s it going my fellow tuners? So this will be a bitter sweet post as the car will be prepped for long term storage until 2023. Here is a list of the updates I have performed prior to the storage. First I had an unfortunate issue with my JMF stock flange tubular manifold, one of the welds cracked after 1500 miles. I was highly upset , so I decided to go T3 and search for a T3 cast manifold . I went with the 112.00 Rev9 manifold. Disclaimer , if you don’t want to spend multiple hours porting, then this is not the manifold for you. Next I purchased Turbo Lab .82 T3 turbine housing for the HX40 and a Precision Turbo 38mm waste-gate. Due to the short profile of the manifold, it caused the turbine housing to hit the block. I then purchased a vibrant 4g63 header flange and used it as a spacer. I used the 3/8 in version but I would recommend the 1/2 in version if you plan on using a turbo blanket.
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Now comes the fabrication part, I am by no means a professional welder, to be honest I have no experience . So a new hot parts kit had to be fabricated, O2 housing, down pipe and dump tube. It took me a month to hone some skills and make something worthy. I burned holes in so much metal, it’s not funny. Multiple attempts , I came up with this. I used a flux core welder, so my welds are dirty.
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So of course, my oil filter housing was now in the way of the O2 housing. I had two options, forward facing housing or a relocation kit. I chose the latter . Now upon research I was not impressed by some of the kits out there. The only one that caught my attention was from Improved Racing. This kit is expensive (270.00) but it allows you to use a bigger filter of you choice and the components are very well made. Even the instructions are very thorough and they even give you a list of different filter part numbers. I relocated the filter to where the windshield washer used to be. I fabricated a simple bracket with some 10 an lines and everything was complete.
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Next on the list, I upgraded a couple of fuel components . I upgraded to the bigger DW2000 fuel pressure regulator and I added an Radium in-line fuel rail damper due to the opening /closing actions of large injectors at idle.
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So I know it’s been a long time, but a lot has happened in the last couple of years. Beginning of 2022 I deployed to Eastern Europe so the car sat for about a year not to mention the day before I left, I lifted the head doing a pull LOL. I looked at my ecmlink log for that day and i developed rich knock.

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So back to the drawing board which is cool. You know what happens with deployment money , more parts. So I decided to revamp some problem areas. I redid my engine and fuse box harness because I love the punishment and nothing is good enough in my eyes. I’m also switching setups, going back to a 2.0 with a 2g cylinder head and evo 3 intake manifold. I had the block and head assembled at Ballos Precision Machine. The block consist of a simple combo, stock crank, manley pistons, eagle rods, and kiggly girdle. The head consist of Maperformance beehive springs & retainers, oversized ferrera intake and exhaust valves , delta cam Hks 264/264 cams. I will get more pics once I unwrap the plastic. More pics and updates to come very soon.

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Glad you're back i have a hx40 in a turbo lab. 82 erl manifold how does it feel on that set up so far. I didn't have 400 for a bep .70. It was just too much.
 
Glad you're back i have a hx40 in a turbo lab. 82 erl manifold how does it feel on that set up so far. I didn't have 400 for a bep .70. It was just too much.
The airflow is there and it pulled very hard past 5500 rpm especially on the stroker. I’m thinking about putting it up for sale because I finally was able to piece together an old school FP HTA 3076 setup. I’m getting older so I think I want more of the street responsiveness. That’s the reason for switching to the 2g cylinder head and evo 3 manifold.
 
The airflow is there and it pulled very hard past 5500 rpm especially on the stroker. I’m thinking about putting it up for sale because I finally was able to piece together an old school FP HTA 3076 setup. I’m getting older so I think I want more of the street responsiveness. That’s the reason for switching to the 2g cylinder head and evo 3 manifold.


That's my favorite turbo ever. On a stroker that would be WICKED. But the old FP 3052/HTA 3076 even on a 2.0L is my dream setup. Spools great, makes wicked power, and the spool up sound is incredible.
 
Does anyone know if the Rvr 4G63 engine block has oil squirters ?
 
Update: so this was supposed to be a quick engine swap and back on the road, but of course everything snowballed. I found a couple spots that had peeling paint, especially around the clutch master cylinder. Mine was leaking so of course the paint was damaged. Oh well engine bay refresh it is, besides I needed to paint the core support.
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Due to my clutch master cylinder leaking again, I wanted to replace it with a Wilwood unit. I appreciate the simple yet effective design and with a few modifications I know I could make it work. Plus rebuild kits are inexpensive and readily available. Also I had detective coating powder-coat it for me.
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Next I sent a load off to Justin at detective coating so in the meantime decided to assemble my engine. This is relative simple street build. I wanted responsiveness, so I chose component that I think could get me there. First I have a FP HTA turbo mated to a JMF stock flange manifold. Block has manley pistons, eagle rods, kiggly girdle, L19 studs rocking a felpro composite gasket. Next is a port and polished 2g cylinder head with Ferrea oversized valves, Maperformance beehive springs and retainers, and Delta Camshafts(HKS 264/264). I also replaced all hardware thanks to Belmetric.
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