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Street Build Project 1g (NBA DSM)

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Since the weather is changing I tried to get in a little more cruise tuning so I took it to a Cars in Coffee event. I was surprised how many people actually enjoyed the talon, but of course there is a little bad news. Once I returned home, I noticed my timing cover, and drivers axle had a thick film of motor oil and a small puddle forming. So something in the oil pump area is leaking.
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So I have been trying to dial in my cruise tuning. Took the car to Justin @ Detective Coating since he done all the powder coating work. He took me on a ride in his 700 hp Cadillac CTS-V.
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So since it was a nice holiday weekend, I decided to drive the car to Lynchburg which is a 2 1/2 hr drive one way, with the wife following me of course. If I had any issues, they would definitely show up on this trip, which they did on the way back. I tried to get on boost and the car started breaking up. Also I need to find a local 1gA hood in good condition.
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Good evening I’m back with a much needed update. So there has been some changes to the build these last few months. First thing was wiring. I was having issues with my hi amp radiator fans causing my car to stall when they came on. I decided to rewire them to dual relays, in the midst of that I decided to just rewire my entire fuse , relay block.
Well while I was in there I decided to rebuild my entire engine harness from scratch. My goal was to not reuse anything and to replicate the Oem wire colors. I had a spare unmolested 1990 harness, that I used to cross reference wire colors. I used striped gxl wire and I had to use two different sources to get the proper wire gauges. For connectors I use ohm-racing, Sheridan, and Deutsch connectors. For the connectors I couldn’t source, I just swapped them over to Deutsch connectors.
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So in the meantime , I was browsing my local salvage yard website and noticed they had just gotten a 1991 mighty max. I looked at my spare 6-bolt in the corner and I started thinking stroker, stroker, stroker. I jumped in the talon and went straight there to check it out. Nothing had been touched so I had the yard pull the crank. A week later I had a mint crank for a mere $100.00 with military discount. Let’s build a 2.3 stroker.

I went with manley pistons, eagle rods , acl bearings, kiggly girdle, arp main and head studs, all new oem gaskets and hardware, new oem timing components, oem evo 9 Kevlar timing belt. I had Ballos Precision do all my machine work. To be expected I ran into some clearance issues with the block. I blocked off my oil squirters because they were making contact and I had to grind an area where the number 3 rod was hitting. I sourced a virgin head and went with a simple rebuild to include melling valves, manley valve springs, kiggly hla, engine tec 3g lifters. I reused my Tomei 261 cams and Fidanza cam gears.
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Once the stoker long block was completed, I pulled the 2.0 and started the task of swapping components over. My valve cover was cracked and seeping oil, so I had Justin at detective coating powder coat another one and weld in my orb bungs for the radium engineering fittings. He also powder coated oil pan, water pump pulleys, tial wastegate and bov , etc. Next I ported my bep housing wastegate hole to 38mm and smim to accommodate the S90 74mm throttle body. E85 is local to me now so what better time to add an ethanol sensor. I trued all my exhaust surfaces and prepped to throw this thing back in.
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Finally time to throw this thing back in, during that time my cv boot ripped. Also since I’m going e85 in the future I upgraded from the aeromotive 340 to the walbro 535 “hellcat” fuel pump. After the engine was finalized, I installed a new 3000gt vr-4 slave cylinder. Last on my list was this dreaded bumper. I always seem to fight this thing every time I want to remove it. I picked up some quick release bumper latches off a Facebook group. They turned out ok. So this is where the car stands as of today. I plan to do my first start tomorrow or Wednesday.View attachment 632435View attachment 632436View attachment 632437View attachment 632438View attachment 632439View attachment 632440View attachment 632441View attachment 632442View attachment 632443View attachment 632444View attachment 632445View attachment 632446View attachment 632447View attachment 632448
 
Man, what a beauty. I've thought about redoing my extra harness but it seems like it would take forever and god forbid I screw it up it will take forever to diagnose. I think I may buy an ohm-racing harness. Having the quick-release bumper is a must-have. Every serous DSM needs that. It's so annoying removing the bumper in it's stock configuration.
 
So, I’m beyond pissed and hurt. Went to do the first start and rocker arm was knocked off the lifter. Now I have zero compression in the #1 cylinder. It looks like the valve keeper got hung up in the valve. I swear I’m about to put 50 rounds in this thing. Lifter and rocker arm also got damaged.View attachment 632540
 
Yeah, I’m in my feelings right now, but this is the Dsm game. I have the option of swapping heads, so I will probably go that route. I’m just racking my brain on how this actually happened .
 
After getting out my feelings and composing myself, I removed the head to access the damage. Cylinder 1 intake valve was stuck in the valve guide, it seems the valve keeper moved up the valve. The valve very lightly nicked my #1 cylinder, I’m still trying to figure how that happened. So I have two options, send this head back to the machine shop to repair the valve or swapped to the built head. I chose the latter since this head has less than a 1000 miles. I scooped up a felpro composite head gasket proceeded to swap components.
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I’m using the oem evo 9 Kevlar belt. Yeah I knew if I didn’t fix it at that moment , the car probably would have sat another 6 months.
 
Man, what a beauty. I've thought about redoing my extra harness but it seems like it would take forever and god forbid I screw it up it will take forever to diagnose. I think I may buy an ohm-racing harness. Having the quick-release bumper is a must-have. Every serous DSM needs that. It's so annoying removing the bumper in it's stock configuration.
Yeah I totally understand, I always looked at my harness as a liability. I pretty much used my extra harness as a template and went wire by wire. The only thing I altered was the wire gauge size. I only used 18, 16, 14, 12 gauge.
 
Yeah I totally understand, I always looked at my harness as a liability. I pretty much used my extra harness as a template and went wire by wire. The only thing I altered was the wire gauge size. I only used 18, 16, 14, 12 gauge.
Or, you always make one from scratch and fix all the unnecessary loops and long travels the OEM wiring creates. Either way, you did well considering the age and the quality of spare harnesses the DSM community has on now classic cars.
 
Or, you always make one from scratch and fix all the unnecessary loops and long travels the OEM wiring creates. Either way, you did well considering the age and the quality of spare harnesses the DSM community has on now classic cars.
Yeah considering you can buy 90% of the oem connectors, making it from scratch was a no brainer. I actually cheated a little bit though, so I have an unmolested 1990 harness, then I have my tucked deleted harness from my car. What I did was build the new harness from scratch without the extra loops and length and used new connectors with new wire. If I could replicate the same wire colors, then it would be easy to trouble shoot. To get the precise measurements for the new harness, i used the old tucked harness. I used the unmolested harness to verify wire colors and ecu pin outs. Of course I had to verify fitment in the car , but using measurements from the old tucked harness gave me a good starting point. My next goal is to do the same thing to my fuse box harness and make it into 3 removable sub sections.
 
holy cow, i spent the last hour or so reading through this post and ive never seen a cleaner build, bay, wire job/tuck. this thing is beautiful!!!
 
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