The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support Rix Racing

Products the DSM crowd would like to see made

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

The Beatrush drive shaft bushings (carrier bearing) for the Evo 8-9 can be used for the DSM's. They will drop right in and are made from aluminum.

Link to the bushings
Pure Tuning

Do those come with shims? The factory actually shimmed each carrier bearing seperately to get the right angles on the driveshaft. Each car is not the same and there are multiple replacement washers, in different thicknesses, that you can order from Mitsu.
 
We need some steel or aluminum motor mounts. Not inserts but actual real complete motor mounts. We also need rear subframe steel or aluminum bushings for the 1g that are not expensive. By the way, who sells aluminum moter mounts. LOL. Thanks.

Avid Racing is releasing an aluminum motor mount set for both generations with urethane inserts sometime around February starting with the 1G. They will then also release a rigid full aluminum mount set shortly after.
 
The Beatrush drive shaft bushings (carrier bearing) for the Evo 8-9 can be used for the DSM's. They will drop right in and are made from aluminum.

Link to the bushings
Pure Tuning

I shall look to pick up a set after the the money sucking season ends, heh. As far as shims my car only had a single washer on the top of each which are rusted badly. I'll be looking them up in the shop manual I guess and see if I can't get a good driveline angle.
 
Do those come with shims? The factory actually shimmed each carrier bearing seperately to get the right angles on the driveshaft. Each car is not the same and there are multiple replacement washers, in different thicknesses, that you can order from Mitsu.

Never heard this one before! I just checked our parts system and no shims are listed for that application. Called my Mitsu parts supplier to see if he could find anything in his system and he said that doesn't exist. Also checked the Evo and nothing is listed there either.

For shits and giggles since I have access to several gen DSM's and Evo's I'll measure the ones without the upgraded bushing set to see if there is any difference in the washers. Regardless if there is or isn't a shim option used for this application any shim used would have to be large, not small, as a couple hundredths of an inch isn't going to affect the driveshaft alignment.

I've been working on Mitsubishi's for for a long time and have installed a couple dozen of these bushings without complication without "shims".
 
The shims are the washers that go on either side of the bolt. They're not thin shims like you'd think about in machining applications. I'll see if I can find the part numbers again and post back.

Edit:

Part # MB241174 should come with 5 little spacers for each side of the carrier bearing. These don't get stacked 5 to each side, you use them to "shim" the carrier bearing to the right angle. I can't find the original thread but there is one the galantvr4.org somewhere and many people have gotten rid of the deceleration noises using these spacers correctly. You're basically trying to create equal drive shaft angles between the carrier bearings.

Hope this helps.
 
I've been working on Mitsubishi's for for a long time and have installed a couple dozen of these bushings without complication without "shims".

How do you mean "without complication"?

I think you mean without "noticeable problems" however, driveshaft angle is very important.

Just because you're not getting instant driveline noise or problems doesn't mean that it's "correct".
 
some more Galant Vr4 specific parts. There are barely any out there anymore for us galant guys. yes most engine and chasis parts are interchangable for the most part but there are alot of peices that don't exist for us, but do for 1g's
 
many people have gotten rid of the deceleration noises using these spacers correctly. You're basically trying to create equal drive shaft angles between the carrier bearings.

I am very interested in this as I had no idea that any shimming was needed. Is there a proper way to measure the angle? I do get deceleration noise and would like to try this.
 
I am very interested in this as I had no idea that any shimming was needed. Is there a proper way to measure the angle? I do get deceleration noise and would like to try this.

I hate to have a tech discussion in the wrong area but the way I've seen it done is to get a magnetic angle finder, like this: Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices, and slap it on the driveshaft just after the t-case yoke, after the first carrier bearing, then after the lobro joint. Once you have your starting numbers try to shim so that they are as close to the same angle as possible.

Hope that helps :thumb:
 
DSM version of the FP Evo Red turbo.
Yeah I know it would be a little different because the evo turbine housing is twin scroll sort of (I call it 1.5 scroll because it only has one wastegate). The compressor wheel is already available (HTA3076), so I guess the trick would be to get the goodness that is in the evo red turbine section translated into the DSM format. Or, heh heh, FP could make a divided version of the FP race manifold to go along with the turbo in twin-scroll form.
Why not the DSM76HTA? Well the evo red turbine wheel is several mm bigger, is a much newer design aerodynamically, and it looks to me like people are getting better results from it than from the GT30 based turbos.

Gary
 
How do you mean "without complication"?

I think you mean without "noticeable problems" however, driveshaft angle is very important.

Just because you're not getting instant driveline noise or problems doesn't mean that it's "correct".

No I mean exactly what I said "without complication" hence why you were able to read it.
Stating "without noticeable problems" is insinuating that there is a problem but isn't noticeable which is not what I said. There have been no complications/issues that I'm aware of using these bushings on any Mitsubishi I've installed these on. If there is a procedure then I stand corrected, but none of the literature or software we posses contains this info.
Besides anyone who has even grabbed their driveshaft and jerked it around with the old OE bushings knows they have a ton of slop which isn't very precise. That last sentence sounds kinda....
 
A lot of people are re-shimming after filling the carrier bearings. This holds the driveshaft more secure and allows you to get better results.
 
i would love for STM to start makeing those v band exhaust mani's that they used on the black gsx they built that was a clean setup
 
+1 for the 2 seater Spyder conversion.

I found a company that used to make it but they dont anymore. Kazetech or something like that. Its been a while since I looked in to it. But I have seen it on ebay a time or two. I would get one. I like the look. The ones with the roll bar look kind of stupid and alittle bit too much like a mustang. Oh well.

The other thing we need is more parts meant specifically for the 4G64.

Yeah yeah yeah I know the 4G63 is the same thing and blah blah blah. Thats crap. Everything i do is 3 and 4 trips to autozone or checker. I have parts from all sorts of cars other then mine. Mostly from the help of guys in this forum and others like it.

just my 2 cents.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top