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Problems due to egr?

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Ja17Bmx

15+ Year Contributor
91
0
Oct 16, 2004
Doylestown, Ohio
Alright well I have been boosted for over a month now with no problems at all. Just yesterday I removed the egr valve and replaced it with a block off kit. Now My car will run fine until the ecu tries to activate the egr and the car will run like crap. The vacum will drop to 10, the car wont keep an idle and will back fire. I dont know if this problem is due to the egr being gone, because this never happened before. I did a compression test and everything is the same as when I started the kit. 200 across the board. Is there anything, like a resistor or something I can plug into the egr electronics to trick the ecu into thinking its still there and working, so this wont happen? Or do I have a more serious problem on my hands.:|
 
read some of my lasts posts
i had to block off my egr to put on the portfueler
and it runs like pure dirty butt

welding the spacer into the egr pipe and reconnecting is the last thing i havent done to try to fix my idle problems so that has to be it

some people have their egrs off for years and never seem to have problems so who knows
 
do not remove EGR...

it only is open during cruise conditions, it will only give you better gas mileage, there is 0 performance gains by removing it...

find another way to get your portfueler to work, removing egr is not the answer to any problem, unless the egr itself is broke, and in that case you should fix the egr.
 
The only reason that I blocked mine off was because the egr broke, and I was always told you didnt need it. When I blocked it off, I didnt block off the part that goes into the manifold, but I blocked off the end of metal tube that was connected to valve itself. Does that have anything to do with the problem? And I was told a 10 watt 100 ohm resistor would take away the annoying cel, if I plug it into the egr wiring. Is that correct?
 
A PROPERLY blocked EGR system should cause NO driveability related problems. At idle a bad EGR valve that is partially stuck open will cause a vacuum reading closer to 0 and frequently cause stalling out. It sounds more like you've blocked off the EGR in a bad way. Try blocking it between the valve and the head itself if you must block it.
Doug
 
Doug99RS said:
A PROPERLY blocked EGR system should cause NO driveability related problems. At idle a bad EGR valve that is partially stuck open will cause a vacuum reading closer to 0 and frequently cause stalling out. It sounds more like you've blocked off the EGR in a bad way. Try blocking it between the valve and the head itself if you must block it.
Doug
the wiseman speaks. i would take off your block off plates and put them back on again just to make sure it is blocked right.
 
what kind of block off kit did you get, or what did you use...you only blocked off the side that bolts up to the head?
 
Mopar Performance offers one for the Neon. It's a three piece kit that fits DOHC and SOHC neons and the DOHC parts will fit the 2gnt. I actually used the plates and all the original parts. I just put the plates between the head and EGR and betewen the EGR tube and intake.

I'm currently running the neon with the EGR blocked off too. It's not throwing any codes but 1. it's a 95 with less sensative emissions tests and it's also got a Mopar Performance Computer in it which doesn't seem to throw as many codes either.
D
 
Since were on the subject of egr's does anyone else's CEL come on after the turbo kit install or is that just me?
 
I've never seen a fault code that said any component was bad. It's normally a code like "EGR system failure" or "EGR solenoid circuit". Point being there's not just one code it can have and it's not always conclusive either. It would really make things easier to get the actual "P" code and go from there.

For those looking to get the EGR Block off Kit from Mopar the Part Number is P5007276.
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In this kit you would use the middle and the right darker components and the gaskets that match them. The other plate and the round blue gasket is for SOHC neon use.
They retail for $53.00 and there is at least 200 kits nationwide.
Doug
 
Ja17Bmx said:
The only reason that I blocked mine off was because the egr broke, and I was always told you didnt need it. When I blocked it off, I didnt block off the part that goes into the manifold, but I blocked off the end of metal tube that was connected to valve itself. Does that have anything to do with the problem? And I was told a 10 watt 100 ohm resistor would take away the annoying cel, if I plug it into the egr wiring. Is that correct?



Why dont you just get a a new egr? better gas mileage and lower combustion chamber temp's at cruise you can't go wrong...
 
A new EGR valve costs about $130.00 +/- (p/n 4287638) and the block off kit costs you about $50.00. You save $80.00 but you'll save more in gas long term by NOT blocking it off.
Doug
 
I took my EGR off for one reason... brand new port and polished intake manifold that I didnt want getting all black and gummed up. My car ran perfect with it off.
 
I bought a block off kit from a guy on Neons.org

His name was Vitor, and I can't remember his website. He sold the plates, gaskets, and the Resistor to put into the harness
 
There is a resistor that you're supposed to hook up to the plug. I don't know the right size of it. That should eliminate the code also.
 
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