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Problem with Spyder MPI relay

Hristo

Probationary Member
11
2
Jan 4, 2021
Texas, Ohio
hello guys i have the following problem on my 1999 non turbo eclipse spyder.
Yesterday i drove about an hour in a raining condition i got home shut off the car everything normal. After that i go start the car and when i tried to shut it off it wouldn't, it kept running even after i pull the key. So i stalled it in gear and began searching.
I pulled the ignition key terminal nothing happened it stayed on then i go to the MPI relay pull it out and car turns off. I tested the relay it works fine. I used a multimeter on the relay terminal and it reads constant voltage to it.

any suggestions?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Hristo

Probationary Member
11
2
Jan 4, 2021
Texas, Ohio
No I found out that when I switch the ignition to ON position and turn it back to OFF the only way the cluster lights and the car to shut down is to pull either the fuel module or the fuel relay. I checked the fuel module harness and u found out that it has 2 out of 5 pins that have constant 12V. Is that normal and what should I do ....
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
13,977
1,010
Feb 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
Which two pins have constant 12V?

Pins 3 & 4 of the fuel pump relay and pin 4 of the MFI relay should only have 12v when the ignition switch is in the Start or normal run position. Pin 3 on the MFI relay should have constant 12v.
 

Hristo

Probationary Member
11
2
Jan 4, 2021
Texas, Ohio
Which two pins have constant 12V?

Pins 3 & 4 of the fuel pump relay and pin 4 of the MFI relay should only have 12v when the ignition switch is in the Start or normal run position. Pin 3 on the MFI relay should have constant 12v.
i have constant 12V when ignition is OFF on this fuel module blue/black and white/black wire and constant 12V on the fuel relay red/black wire.No idea what to do, car starts perfectly and runs perfectly it Just dosent want to shut off. When i pull out the key the radio goes out but car keeps running and the lights on the cluster stay on. Its like something is not killing the voltage to the fuel module or the relay

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Hristo

Probationary Member
11
2
Jan 4, 2021
Texas, Ohio
I tested the relay it works fine when not in the car but when i plug it in and put ignition key to on it clicks and when i return the key it dosent(as if it stays on because something keeps feeding it 12V) I take out all the fuses in the car plug out my ecu and the damn thing still gets voltage. Where can it come from i dont think i have short somewhere because everything on the car works normal, i dont have blown fuses. I'm learning on the idea that this Fuel module is the problem i dont think its normal to have two out of 5 pins with constant 12V when key is in OFF position and all fuses are out but i cant find almost anything about that module because they add the damn thing only on 1999 eclipses. When its not pluged in i turn the key on and off everything is normal (it wont start obviously because it dosent send signal to the fuel pump) but the idea is that i dont have this strange stay in ON position when i turn the ignition key to OFF
 

MattHDSM

Proven Member
86
46
Oct 20, 2018
Ottawa, ON_Canada
If I'm reading the wiring diagram right and tracing back correctly, if the ignition is off and you're still getting 12v out of the relay (Pin 1, Black/Red-Stripe), that would indicate something wrong prior to that relay as the relay only has one source of 12v, the ignition switch, so maybe a faulty ignition switch?

I don't think it's the relay module as it looks like the relay module is supplied 12v from the relay on Pin 1 and 5v from the ECM on Pin 2 (maybe being used to modulate the 12v input for the fuel pump?). Now this is a guess but I'm thinking Pin 1 supplies 12v to Pin 3 which supplies the fuel pump itself. Once through the pump, current re-enters the relay module through Pin 4 and is sent to ground through Pin 5. I'm not quite sure what the fuel pump check connector is doing.
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
13,977
1,010
Feb 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
So the Black/Blue and the Black/white wires from the module go to the fuel pump.
As mentioned the Red/Black wire to the MFI relay should have 12v on it all the time but I shouldn't be able to switch that 12v to the red wire on pin 1 of the MFI relay except when the Ignition switch is on (Pin 4) and the ECU is pulling the wire from pin 3 to ground. If pin 4 of both Relays isn't going to 0v when you turn the ignition off you have a problem with the Ignition switch or wiring.
 

Hristo

Probationary Member
11
2
Jan 4, 2021
Texas, Ohio
Could this fuel module gone bad and not stoping when i turn the key OFF. Or if its a ignition related problem where do i check.I opened this and cleaned it but no luck there

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MattHDSM

Proven Member
86
46
Oct 20, 2018
Ottawa, ON_Canada
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On the ignition switch, check for continuity between Pin 1 (White) and Pin 2 (Black/White-Stripe) with the key in the off. If you have continuity, something in the switch is likely shorted and will need to be replaced.
 

Hristo

Probationary Member
11
2
Jan 4, 2021
Texas, Ohio
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On the ignition switch, check for continuity between Pin 1 (White) and Pin 2 (Black/White-Stripe) with the key in the off. If you have continuity, something in the switch is likely shorted and will need to be replaced.
I checked it no problem there. The only way to shut of engine and cluster lights is to pull the fuel module(in the picture)

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Hristo

Probationary Member
11
2
Jan 4, 2021
Texas, Ohio
Is there a way i can rewire something and make it like the normal 2g eclipse, where the fuel pump starts working when you put the ignition in ON position and get this module out of the car. I dont know what to do anymore 😔
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,634
1,176
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona

Hristo

Probationary Member
11
2
Jan 4, 2021
Texas, Ohio
Also i just found out that the car starts and runs when i start it without the fuel pump relay and when i turn the key OFF it shuts down like everything is normal.. but i tested the relay it works fine. What is the need of this relay when i can start and turn off the car without it
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
1,634
1,176
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Yesterday i drove about an hour in a raining condition
I am not sure if this is your case but as you said this ⌃.
I have some experiences on my car and motorcycle that relays/switches weirdly worked but it always happened/started "only" in a rainy/humid day. All my cases were caused rust build up on relay switch contacts by moisture. So if I were you I would try to replace the suspicious one with a new or a good used or inspect/clean the contacts before trying to bypass the fuel pump relay module.
 

Hristo

Probationary Member
11
2
Jan 4, 2021
Texas, Ohio
Ok guys i want to thank for all your help and fast responses and i am officially closing this case. I rewired the fuel pump bypassing this stupid module. Now when i turn the key in ON position the fuel pump starts, car fires up working like a champ and when i shut it off IT SHUTS OFF 😃 Thank you all again and have a nice weekend
 

MattHDSM

Proven Member
86
46
Oct 20, 2018
Ottawa, ON_Canada
I checked it no problem there. The only way to shut of engine and cluster lights is to pull the fuel module(in the picture)
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I missed the part in your earlier post about the gauge cluster lights staying on. Something else is going on that is causing a problem if removing the fuel pump module is the only way to turn off the cluster lights. Tracing back both wiring diagrams leads back to the ignition switch as the power source, but fuel pump module shouldn't be able to interact with the cluster lights like that.

I'm glad you're able to actually turn your car off now, but I think the re-wire is just a band-aid solution. That said, if it gets you back and forth to work and wherever, you gotta do what you gotta do.
 

Hristo

Probationary Member
11
2
Jan 4, 2021
Texas, Ohio
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I missed the part in your earlier post about the gauge cluster lights staying on. Something else is going on that is causing a problem if removing the fuel pump module is the only way to turn off the cluster lights. Tracing back both wiring diagrams leads back to the ignition switch as the power source, but fuel pump module shouldn't be able to interact with the cluster lights like that.

I'm glad you're able to actually turn your car off now, but I think the re-wire is just a band-aid solution. That said, if it gets you back and forth to work and wherever, you gotta do what you gotta do.
I didnt mentioned it above but the car is a stroked 4g64 block with a 4g63 head.It dosent have a cam sensor instead the guy i bought it from installed a CAS.So there are some unknowns on the whole Electric circuit. For instans (sorry for the off topic but if someone has an answer on that too would be greatly appreciated) when i drive the car with the 10A Room lamp fuse in when it worms up im driving it and when i rev it to 4000 RPM the car looses power and throws a missfire cel. I take out the 10A Room lamp fuse (the one in the engine bay box) car runs no missfires no problem i just dont have some of the functions the circuit gives, so again some funny unexplainable electrical issue 🙄 any thoughts on that?
 

MattHDSM

Proven Member
86
46
Oct 20, 2018
Ottawa, ON_Canada
I didnt mentioned it above but the car is a stroked 4g64 block with a 4g63 head.It dosent have a cam sensor instead the guy i bought it from installed a CAS.So there are some unknowns on the whole Electric circuit. For instans (sorry for the off topic but if someone has an answer on that too would be greatly appreciated) when i drive the car with the 10A Room lamp fuse in when it worms up im driving it and when i rev it to 4000 RPM the car looses power and throws a missfire cel. I take out the 10A Room lamp fuse (the one in the engine bay box) car runs no missfires no problem i just dont have some of the functions the circuit gives, so again some funny unexplainable electrical issue 🙄 any thoughts on that?
Oof, sound like the harness may have been chopped up a bunch at some point. Might explain the weird electrical interactions going on. I'd recommend posting a build thread or update your profile to include all the mods that you're aware have been done, that way you won't have people like me assuming you have a stock build LOL. Could help out with future troubleshooting.
 
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