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Tina's Turbo (1990 Laser RST)

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That’s a good point. A hairline crack is forming on the inside of the exhaust housing. However it isn’t through to the outside, so I can’t drill it and weld it. I was going to wait for it to pop through and then fix it. But if the $100 Chinese eBay special exhaust housings aren’t bad, maybe I’d do that instead. Was considering a 16g, but the only semi reliable brand I could find was CXracing. I know their stuff has gotten better over the past few years but I still am not sure if I’d trust one of their turbos.

I’m with you 100% on not using stainless in cast. Unfortunately, it seems that stainless is the only material offered by arp for the turbo to manifold. I’m not sure what their thought process was on that one.
I would steer clear of their turbos still, same Chinese turbo that all the other vendors are selling, but if you find a blown one cheap to rob the turbine housing off of you’re in business! @JusMX141 is who you need to talk to when you’re ready for a 16g, built my 14b I have here (using the 7cm eBay housing with a little work done) and built the 16g I ran cranked to the moon. But yeah I’m with you, I cringe every time I see someone use those stainless ARP bolts in the manifold, why they offer them I’ll never know. I will say searching by bolt dimensions you can buy standard ARP bolts through Summit not listed as turbo to manifold bolts but I couldn’t speak for how they do compared to the OEM ones.
 
That's a great idea Spleen8urLSX- I did not previously know about using the 16g housing on a 14b but it makes sense. I completely rebuilt my original 14b, and have a Chinabay 16g that I used for a short while and is now worthless for resale, but maybe it will come in handy here. Are there modifications you need to make to get it to go together?

I've always had to do things on the cheap, so I never ordered new OEM manifold to turbine housing bolts after I removed the pesky stud- I just reused the old OEM bolts (with another from the junkyard). Has Mitsubishi done something to improve the OEM bolts other than the fancy washers? I understand the age, and the concern especially when running without a ring and the gasket may fail. I make it a point to check and re-torque them a couple of times after a build and have never had a problem, but then I only run stock power. I have had pretty good luck using the higher temperature copper anti-seize- I don't like how the zinc stuff always seems to turn into loctite after it ages.
 
That's a great idea Spleen8urLSX- I did not previously know about using the 16g housing on a 14b but it makes sense. I completely rebuilt my original 14b, and have a Chinabay 16g that I used for a short while and is now worthless for resale, but maybe it will come in handy here. Are there modifications you need to make to get it to go together?

I've always had to do things on the cheap, so I never ordered new OEM manifold to turbine housing bolts after I removed the pesky stud- I just reused the old OEM bolts (with another from the junkyard). Has Mitsubishi done something to improve the OEM bolts other than the fancy washers? I understand the age, and the concern especially when running without a ring and the gasket may fail. I make it a point to check and re-torque them a couple of times after a build and have never had a problem, but then I only run stock power. I have had pretty good luck using the higher temperature copper anti-seize- I don't like how the zinc stuff always seems to turn into loctite after it ages.
Meant Nickel, had been using zinc stuff all day at work so that’s what was on my mind, zinc antiseize is definitely not what you want to use there. As far as the housing goes it’s a td05 turbine wheel, direct change over.
 
Ok so I need to source an exhaust housing. Arp kit from STM is on the way, just couldn’t bring myself to pay $17 shipping for 4 small bolts from dsmparts for the oems. I’ve never had a bad experience with arp and of course I’ll slather them up in anti seize. It’ll be absolutely fine. Probably should’ve ordered new o2 housing to turbo bolts... shoot.
 
Meant Nickel, had been using zinc stuff all day at work so that’s what was on my mind, zinc antiseize is definitely not what you want to use there. As far as the housing goes it’s a td05 turbine wheel, direct change over.
Exactly.
This stuff.
Screenshot_20230202-155411_Amazon Shopping.jpg

Not this.
Screenshot_20230202-155529_Chrome.jpg
 
You like the nickel? I feel like I’ve had better luck with copper but that’s on steam systems that don’t get anywhere near exhaust temps. So my experience may not be relevant to such high temps.
Yes. The copper won't cut it on a turbo bolt. Silver either. Look at the temp limits. You don't have to buy a jar of it. I did because I'm lazy and that's what I found.
 
They have something that's called like "nuclear proof" antiseize as well that I've used in the past on the ARP turbo to manifold bolts, and they were awesome. It's such potent stuff it stayed in the housings threads for like 8-12 years in the elements, and was still there when the new owner of the turbine housing got the turbo housing from me. Lol. It's a high temp anti-seize with a radiation/nuclear symbol on the front of it, is about all I can remember. It worked amazing.


When I do it again(because I'm gonna be going DSM flanged turbo eventually(I'm super not keen on T3 setups for a street car in Florida heat) I'll be ordering OEM bolts and washers though. It's hard AF to shell out the money for the washer/springs for the bolts and the bolts themselves, but it'll be worth it.
 
They have something that's called like "nuclear proof" antiseize as well that I've used in the past on the ARP turbo to manifold bolts, and they were awesome. It's such potent stuff it stayed in the housings threads for like 8-12 years in the elements, and was still there when the new owner of the turbine housing got the turbo housing from me. Lol. It's a high temp anti-seize with a radiation/nuclear symbol on the front of it, is about all I can remember. It worked amazing.


When I do it again(because I'm gonna be going DSM flanged turbo eventually(I'm super not keen on T3 setups for a street car in Florida heat) I'll be ordering OEM bolts and washers though. It's hard AF to shell out the money for the washer/springs for the bolts and the bolts themselves, but it'll be worth it.
Wound up getting the permatex 1600* rated stuff and arp chromoly bolts. Arps have survived higher temps than this car will see with whatever anti seize I happened to have lying around on the turbo LS so I’m not too worried. So far this car’s track record with OEM bolts has been... poor to say the least LOL. Even worse than my 2nd gen Cummins, which I consider to be the most cheaply built vehicle I’ve ever owned (besides this). And that’s saying a lot considering I have a 3rd gen Camaro.

But in all seriousness, thanks for the recommendation. I’ll buy some next time I need never seize for sure. I would’ve preferred oem, but $17 shipping on 4 bolts is just something I refuse to do.
 
Wound up getting the permatex 1600* rated stuff and arp chromoly bolts. Arps have survived higher temps than this car will see with whatever anti seize I happened to have lying around on the turbo LS so I’m not too worried. So far this car’s track record with OEM bolts has been... poor to say the least LOL. Even worse than my 2nd gen Cummins, which I consider to be the most cheaply built vehicle I’ve ever owned (besides this). And that’s saying a lot considering I have a 3rd gen Camaro.

But in all seriousness, thanks for the recommendation. I’ll buy some next time I need never seize for sure. I would’ve preferred oem, but $17 shipping on 4 bolts is just something I refuse to do.


100% with you in the ridiculous shipping. I like our vendors but their shipping prices are just thinly veiled attempts to make more money. I’d rather they just say the bolts are $20 and shipping is free. Lol
 
100% with you in the ridiculous shipping. I like our vendors but their shipping prices are just thinly veiled attempts to make more money. I’d rather they just say the bolts are $20 and shipping is free. Lol
Exactly. It feels like a trap. It’s like Ticketmaster with their skeevy bullshit. “Service fee” then “convenience fee” then “processing fee” and then before you know it, your $100 concert ticket is $162.47. At that point, no. I’ll scalp one or call the venue to try and get one at will call. Or just not go. But don’t bs me with these fake prices and then tack on an extra 15% + charge at the end.

I mean shipping is expensive. And on larger items I 100% get it and understand. I just wish the price I see the item listed at was more representative of the actual cost instead of a ding it to my cart, putting in my debit card info, entering all my shipping info, contact info, etc and then finding out “oh hey your $20 item is now $45.”

Kind of a stupid rant but I think I’ve got a point.
 
I feel y’all on the shipping pain but this might make you feel better. I just ordered the nuts for the bumper/crash beam for my car that can only be had from Amayama at this point but didn’t realize I had the quantity set to 4 instead of 8! I tried to email their sales asap to change or cancel the order but never got a response. The 4 showed up today. So now I’m paying shipping from Japan for another 4 of the same damn nuts! Stupid me! And they packaged the hell out of those 4 nuts let me tell you. :banghead: Never pays to be in a hurry trying to order from phone while working..well almost never.
 
I feel y’all on the shipping pain but this might make you feel better. I just ordered the nuts for the bumper/crash beam for my car that can only be had from Amayama at this point but didn’t realize I had the quantity set to 4 instead of 8! I tried to email their sales asap to change or cancel the order but never got a response. The 4 showed up today. So now I’m paying shipping from Japan for another 4 of the same damn nuts! Stupid me! And they packaged the hell out of those 4 nuts let me tell you. :banghead: Never pays to be in a hurry trying to order from phone while working..well almost never.
Oof. That hurts. But I’m glad you’re working on the car, I read through your thread a while back and saw the whole backstory, hope she starts coming together for you.
 
Oof. That hurts. But I’m glad you’re working on the car, I read through your thread a while back and saw the whole backstory, hope she starts coming together for you.
Thanks! Been a long journey to get to even this point. Got a nice collection of parts started and just got the adapter brackets welded for the rotisserie. She’ll be upside down soon enough! Can’t wait. Just wish I had more time to work on her, but some is better than none.
 
Wound up getting the permatex 1600* rated stuff and arp chromoly bolts. Arps have survived higher temps than this car will see with whatever anti seize I happened to have lying around on the turbo LS so I’m not too worried.
I feel obligated to say it again. That antiseize wont cut it. May as well not use it. I know firsthand. Use the nickel.
So far this car’s track record with OEM bolts has been... poor to say the least LOL. Even worse than my 2nd gen Cummins, which I consider to be the most cheaply built vehicle I’ve ever owned (besides this). And that’s saying a lot considering I have a 3rd gen Camaro.

But in all seriousness, thanks for the recommendation. I’ll buy some next time I need never seize for sure. I would’ve preferred oem, but $17 shipping on 4 bolts is just something I refuse to do.
 
I feel obligated to say it again. That antiseize wont cut it. May as well not use it. I know firsthand. Use the nickel.
Figured the 1600* was the nickel. If not, I’ll get the nickel stuff.
 
I feel obligated to say it again. That antiseize wont cut it. May as well not use it. I know firsthand. Use the nickel.
So I’m nowhere near needing it yet but I bought a jar of the nickel based on your info here just so I didn’t forget, LOL.
 
Got the car on the road today for the first time! It ran great. Started right up and had so much more power than I expected! It was a blast! But when I got back from my brief ride, the alternator belt had begun slipping off the water pump and I had a horrible knocking. Scratching my head trying to figure out what it is, check out the video and see what it sounds like. It only started after driving around, not after the first startup. Plugs looked a bit lean but nothing to be too worried about.

Compression isn’t great either, 135/110/115/125 but the car has been sitting for so long I wouldn’t be surprised to see that go up as everything starts wearing in together again.

 
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I’d imagine the compression will come up like you said, rings might be a bit sticky from sitting but they’ll come back. I can’t open the link to the video but did you perhaps service the timing belt? A bad auto tensioner will make a knocking noise if it’s the old original one or I’ve seen some of the Dayco ones bad right out of the box. Worth looking at and I’ve had it happen.

EDIT: Some of the “experts” will probably tear my head off for saying this but dump a can of Berryman’s b12 in the tank and the rings will probably come out of it even quicker, while I’m not much into the YouTube guys Derrick from Vice Grip Garage cracks me up and got me turned on to that stuff, if you know about the I-Talian tune up and have seen it work then you know what I mean.
 
I’d imagine the compression will come up like you said, rings might be a bit sticky from sitting but they’ll come back. I can’t open the link to the video but did you perhaps service the timing belt? A bad auto tensioner will make a knocking noise if it’s the old original one or I’ve seen some of the Dayco ones bad right out of the box. Worth looking at and I’ve had it happen.
Thanks. I fixed the link to the video, I think, and I did the timing belt with a brand new OEM tensioner.
 
I’d imagine the compression will come up like you said, rings might be a bit sticky from sitting but they’ll come back. I can’t open the link to the video but did you perhaps service the timing belt? A bad auto tensioner will make a knocking noise if it’s the old original one or I’ve seen some of the Dayco ones bad right out of the box. Worth looking at and I’ve had it happen.

EDIT: Some of the “experts” will probably tear my head off for saying this but dump a can of Berryman’s b12 in the tank and the rings will probably come out of it even quicker, while I’m not much into the YouTube guys Derrick from Vice Grip Garage cracks me up and got me turned on to that stuff, if you know about the I-Talian tune up and have seen it work then you know what I mean.


Are you FREAKIN KIDDING M--- just kidding. I've heard of that, and have heard of squirting some ATF in the cylinders too. It's worth a shot for sure!


Also OP, oof. To me it sounds like a belt is rubbing on something or slapping against something. It doesn't SOUND like engine knock or anything like that, it sounds like something hitting plastic. But, it could just be the audio of the video itself disguising it.
 
Are you FREAKIN KIDDING M--- just kidding. I've heard of that, and have heard of squirting some ATF in the cylinders too. It's worth a shot for sure!


Also OP, oof. To me it sounds like a belt is rubbing on something or slapping against something. It doesn't SOUND like engine knock or anything like that, it sounds like something hitting plastic. But, it could just be the audio of the video itself disguising it.
I sure hope so. I get the feeling it’s some kind of belt thing, the water pump pulley and crank pulley don’t seem to line up well with the alternator pulley. Wondering if I may have some kind of misalignment there
 
Got the car on the road today for the first time! It ran great. Started right up and had so much more power than I expected! It was a blast! But when I got back from my brief ride, the alternator belt had begun slipping off the water pump and I had a horrible knocking. Scratching my head trying to figure out what it is, check out the video and see what it sounds like. It only started after driving around, not after the first startup. Plugs looked a bit lean but nothing to be too worried about.

Compression isn’t great either, 135/110/115/125 but the car has been sitting for so long I wouldn’t be surprised to see that go up as everything starts wearing in together again.


Is the harmonic balancer new? If old, I would check it. Maybe it started to separate.
 
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