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Tina's Turbo (1990 Laser RST)

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I will never understand some of the hackery with these cars people thought would work, I mean yeah I’ve done it too but like you said at least my hack jobs work. With his fancy rubber deal he would’ve been better off just leaving it out and not tightening it.

And just upgrade to the 91-94 throttle body and sensors now, you’ll thank yourself later. You could even be fancy and pick up a non turbo throttle body to eliminate the stupid elbow while you’re at it.
 
I will never understand some of the hackery with these cars people thought would work, I mean yeah I’ve done it too but like you said at least my hack jobs work. With his fancy rubber deal he would’ve been better off just leaving it out and not tightening it.

And just upgrade to the 91-94 throttle body and sensors now, you’ll thank yourself later. You could even be fancy and pick up a non turbo throttle body to eliminate the stupid elbow while you’re at it.
Maybe I’ll work on sourcing one today. Should be plug and play minus switching two wires I believe. May as well do it while the injectors are out and the car’s down for paint anyways I suppose.
 
I slept on it and came up with a theory: I think this car has been f***ered with despite its super low mileage and one owner status. I think the PO had a mechanic work on it who didn't know what he was doing.

The exhaust cam was off by a tooth when I did the t belt. Since I dialed in the base timing, the car has ran like crap. I have never pulled the fuel rail but it really sounds like its missing a spacer.

So that leads me to believe the car wasn't idling right due to any number of leaks and the exhaust cam being off so instead of fixing it correctly, he advanced the timing to make it idle. Now that I fixed the cam issue and timed it correctly, the issues that the advanced timing were previously hiding are now coming to the surface.

Even the dsms owned by rich old car collectors get ratted out it seems.
How did you set timing? You couldnt have been at 22 deg. Did you ground the timing check connector?
 
How did you set timing? You couldnt have been at 22 deg. Did you ground the timing check connector?
Yeah but now that you mention it, I wonder if I was getting good continuity. I didn’t feel great about the connection I made there. Meant to do better. I’ll go back and recheck when I get the fuel rail back in. Good catch!
 
We got the trunk cleaned out, all of the peeling clear and paint patched temporarily (the paint isn’t a perfect match but it’s better than peeling paint/clear until we get the car professionally painted or wrapped), interior vacuumed, and drivers door weatherstripping reworked with new clips. Found and rehabbed the original Mitsubishi toolkit too. Progress is slow with other projects going concurrently but we’re making progress.
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Clear plastic covering FINALLY coming off the passenger side door sill after 30 something years!
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Interior is cleaning up nicely considering it hasn’t been detailed or anything yet.
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I need some of those Plymouth door sills to match my horn pan! Been rollin the past few years with my horn pad saying Plymouth and my door sills saying Mitsubishi, wonderful progress you guys are making.
Also I really like the look of the Plymouth font. It just looks so period correct
 
Something so satisfying about peeling that plastic off. What a cool gift from the previous owner.
It’s the best part of any new appliance purchase LOL
 
Hey Tina- Could you post a source/link for the blue plastic clips for the door weatherstripping? How well did the work? Did they work for those holes that have been ripped wider in the rubber? Thanks!
 
I need some of those Plymouth door sills to match my horn pan! Been rollin the past few years with my horn pad saying Plymouth and my door sills saying Mitsubishi, wonderful progress you guys are making.

If they're still there, there's a laser in my local junkyard. I don't think they're gray though, I think they're tan.

Hey Tina- Could you post a source/link for the blue plastic clips for the door weatherstripping? How well did the work? Did they work for those holes that have been ripped wider in the rubber? Thanks!

I'm curious as well!
 
Ok so the blue clips came in one of those no name variety packs from eBay or something where it’s like $60 for 500 pieces or whatever. They worked great on the holes that had been ripped wider. The part that goes inside the hole and grabs the weatherstripping is actually wider than the oem clip and that’s why I chose to use them over the oem ones. They fit the holes perfectly and retain the weatherstripping tightly. Definitely better than the oem fasteners and certainly cheaper. Plus the rest of the clips on the kit are super useful as well.

Plus the prong design that grabs the door is much more robust than the stock Christmas tree style
 
nice build! i just read it all. keep it going.
i just met you guys a few hours ago at the gas station. white galant here. it was cool meeting you guys. loved the white supra. i was kicking myself for not checking out the supra before i left but half my mind was on getting my shopping done...
hope to see you guys at some meet this summer. love the supra, love the laser.
 
Hey everyone! I’m not dead, haha, I just got logged out and couldn’t get back in but finally got it working!

Been driving the Laser around and it’s so much fun! Even been able to drive it in this warmer Midwest weather. It definitely likes to be driven so glad it’s able to get some use with the strangely salt-free winter.

nice build! i just read it all. keep it going.
i just met you guys a few hours ago at the gas station. white galant here. it was cool meeting you guys. loved the white supra. i was kicking myself for not checking out the supra before i left but half my mind was on getting my shopping done...
hope to see you guys at some meet this summer. love the supra, love the laser.
Thanks for stopping by the thread! Best of luck with the vr4, hope to see it out running around. We’ve seen a few dsms in the area and a few 3000gts lately. We’d love to get a little dsm cruise going!
 
I like what you’ve done with the car I just wish the rear was half an inch lower. How do those coilovers ride?
I (the other half of the team speaking) wish the same, but Tina likes the rake and this one’s her show. I think it looks goofy though LOL. We would have to cut some of the coilover threads since the rears are as low as they go without modification. But it wouldn’t be hard. We love the ride actually. Plenty of adjustability, minimal body roll. Our roads are good awful here though and an hour driving on the busted up surface roads is enough. On decent roads though I can’t recommend them enough.

Good to hear you’re still around! Was curious what was going on with it.
Just the stupid monthly password change thing. But then couldn’t get into the email account to reset it so we were locked out. 4th Gen camaro is going up for sale so we want it to be perfect for whoever buys it, bought an e39 540i/6, had a wheel bearing turn into a full axle out front end rebuild on the f250, all stuff we drive more than the Laser so it was on the back burner anyways.

But it overheated while driving last week so we’ll be playing with it again soon.
 
I (the other half of the team speaking) wish the same, but Tina likes the rake and this one’s her show. I think it looks goofy though LOL. We would have to cut some of the coilover threads since the rears are as low as they go without modification.
Is the body of the coilover threaded into the bottom mount fully and bottomed out? Or are the collars stopping it? If it’s the collars you can remove one and end up with 2 instead of 3
 
The male threads of the lower mount are bottomed out against the top of the upper portion internally. Cutting about 3/4” of threads off would solve this problem with no ill effects.

Stock ride height is somewhere in the middle of the threads so there’s about 4” of completely unusable thread unless you wanted to use coilovers to lift your dsm. They should’ve designed it where stock ride height was close to the maximum length of the coilovers to give more adjustment on the lowering side since literally nobody is looking for a lift kit.

But as for the quality and adjustment, I think they’re a great product at a great value. I have them on the Supra and would put them on the e39 if that car didn’t already sit perfect with the factory M sport suspension.

They wouldn’t cut it for actual track use but let’s be honest, 99% of us just want a cool lowered look with some more stiffness and less body roll and they do that really well.
 
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