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Spyder Please help me get the timing belt right on my 99 2G 2.4 (Spyder GS)

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alexr254

Proven Member
276
99
Jun 18, 2021
Palm Coast, Florida
Can anyone give me some pointers?
I just changed the timing belt on a 99 GS Spyder with a 2.4
I triple checked all marks. They all line up. Its set TDC at Cyl1 and i am pretty sure its at compression stroke.
Ill check again later today if i cant find anything else.
For the compression stroke i was told its just the cam line that should be in the right position. Is this wrong?

I made sure the oil pump is in the correct orientation. Falling towards the line and not away.

BUT at start up the engine is shaking very badly. Feels like its misfiring badly. No check engine lights and no fault codes. It starts and runs. But poorly.
Can something have went bad? Maybe the crank sensor? I have no CEL.
I also changed out the spark plugs (to iridium's), but reused the old cables. maybe a cable is bad from when I pulled them off? But I figured a real misfire would cause a check engine light or show up on the OBD2 scanner. But nada.
I am not sure what to do next. Again, i am 99% sure all timing marks are lined up correctly. I have already taken it apart and put it back together 3x. This is driving me NUTZ. Please help before I pull out all my hair. Whatever little i have left.

Here is a pic of my marks

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I can't see the Cam dowel pin in your picture but if it's on top the timing marks all look good.

Did you check the phasing of the rear balance shaft? The front one is easy but because of the way the oil pump drives the rear shaft the marks can line up and the shaft will be out of phase causing excess vibrations.
 
Here is a video of the vibration I’m getting now. Yes the dowel is on top. It’s definitely TDC and compression stroke.
for the rear balance shaft I did the gravity trick - testing several times to make sure the weight dropped towards the mark and not away from it.
I was not able to get to the plug on the side to check with a screwdriver. I don’t have a lift. I tried to get to that plug but was not successful in unscrewing it.

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Well I did the timing again just to be sure.
Timing is right on.
I used all OEM belts at well.
Still has some vibration and feels like weak or delayed ignition.
im going to replace the ICM.
this is driving me nuts.
 
Ground cables?, plug wires not pushed in ? Minor vacuum leak? One of my plug cables came off due to vibration, no code was thrown. It just felt like it was running on 3 cylinders and was shaking very similar. Unplug one spark plug wire from one cylinder while vehicle is running amd see how it reacts. Plug it back in and do the same to each cylinder. Whichever doesnt react or make it run worse would be the cylinder that isnt getting a clean spark(from wire, or ignitor etc)
 
Yea I’ve tested just about all that.
I’ve replaced all cables. I’ve replaced all spark plugs.
No vacuum leak that I can see.
It does feel like it’s not working on all cylinders.
 
I see marks on the trigger plate like it is or has hit something. Is that orientated the right way and what does the crank sensor look like? The last time it was replaced? What plugs did you put in?
I missed that. I concur. Trigger plate hit something.
 
You are changing the belt as a course of maintenance correct? Not because the belt broke?
Yes just for maintenance.
It’s not a daily driver. But was at close to 90k miles.

It’s still an ongoing issue. But I don’t think it’s timing related.
It runs perfectly fine at speed. No power loss at all. And it does not shake or vibrate much at all when at 900rpm or above.

However in Drive or Reverse while
Idling the RPMs drop to about 500-700. Jumpy idle. Lower with AC on. Almost stalls.

For now I unplugged the TPS and manually adjusted the screw so the RPMs stay at about 900-1000 while in Drive/Reverse idle with AC on.
I’m going to try replacing the IAC valve and the TPS.
 
I see marks on the trigger plate like it is or has hit something. Is that orientated the right way and what does the crank sensor look like? The last time it was replaced? What plugs did you put in?
Yea it was that way when I opened it up. I replaced the crank sensor with a new one when I did the timing belt.
As well as the water pump and balance belt.
The trigger plate is in the right orientation.
Timing is fine now. No power loss at speed.
Just have an issue with low and jumpy idle while in Drive/Reverse.
 
I really need to make my own thread about part quality for community info.
In general if a car manufacturer doesn’t use a company to manufacture parts for them just don’t use them. You will chase your ass diagnosing parts that work but have issues, don’t fit right, or just won’t last. European vehicles used Bosch plugs but they were having so many issues a TSB was issued to put NGK’s in them. I’ve replaced 3 sets of injectors on a A4 after telling a warranty company our shop does these a lot and there will be issues. Scan vehicles for codes and see a circuit fault because the computer knows the Chinese fans they just put in aren’t correct. If you chase an issue will faulty parts it will never be right.
 
I will definitely go get NGKs tomorrow. Should I stick with iridium or just get regular cheapos?
I know some engines don’t like irridiums as well. Wasn’t sure about this one.
Well I changed the spark plugs to NGK. Same results.
I’m going to replace the IACV and see if that helps.
At load in idle (with AC on in Drive/Reverse) the RPMs drop to a point where it’s almost stalling, and the engine is vibrating because of the low RPMs.
 
I’m sorry man. I didn’t realize it was just when loaded.
I should have used the right spark plugs anyway. Not a big deal and easy to do. Now unfortunately I don’t think I can just replace the IAC valve, I can only find the entire IAC assembly available for my engine.
But I think all things are pointing to the IAC.
 
If the TPS isn't adjusted correctly then IPS (idle Position Switch) inside it may not be telling the ECU that the throttle is closed. That the trigger to the ECU to manage the idle speed and respond to changed in load like from the AC and putting the car into gear.
 
Yes just for maintenance.
It’s not a daily driver. But was at close to 90k miles.

It’s still an ongoing issue. But I don’t think it’s timing related.
It runs perfectly fine at speed. No power loss at all. And it does not shake or vibrate much at all when at 900rpm or above.

However in Drive or Reverse while
Idling the RPMs drop to about 500-700. Jumpy idle. Lower with AC on. Almost stalls.

For now I unplugged the TPS and manually adjusted the screw so the RPMs stay at about 900-1000 while in Drive/Reverse idle with AC on.
I’m going to try replacing the IAC valve and the TPS.
Did this ever work
 
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