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Pivot shimming?

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spooledu1st

15+ Year Contributor
91
0
Jul 8, 2003
TK, New_Jersey
I need some help! Just put my awd together and a can't get it in gear. I tried adjusting the rod and that did not help. So I guess I have to take it all apart and shim the pivot right. My question is how much should I shim it. I can't get it in gear while running.














:dsm:
 
Sorry I frogot to tell you what I am using all brand new 2600 pp, act street disk, fidanza fly.
 
if your thinking abou shimming the ball on the fork i suggest doing this first.

Get under the trans, and pull the rubber boot out off the fork. measure to see if the fork is at least center while the TOB is just touching the clutch or the fork is positioned towards the drivers side. If your TOB is just touching the clutch and your fork is off towards the passenger side maybe a little off center you need to shim. I had to do this last week ugg... after i had got everything back in, it all had to come right back out!

If you dont understand what im talking about check out RRE's Page

Let me know what you find
 
Yes the fork is more tword the passanger side. My qestion is what sixe washer do you use to shim it. Only reason im asking is cause i dont feel like doing it 3 times.
 
I used a semi thick lock washer outta my nuts and bolts bucket. It dramatically changed things, i got about 1/4 back to my drivers side. start off small 1 little washer moves things way far!
 
Another option is Taboo's longer Slave Cyl rod (don't have to take tranny out :) )

When I put my 2600# in I was going to shim it also.. but my friend (and helper) mentioned that Jon Shepherd did not recommend that (forgot why). So I followed the TRE clutch adjustment FAQ and was good to go.

Did you get your flywheel surfaces to teh recommended "step" height? That would contribute to your problems as well.
 
I don't think that Taboo's longer slave rod will help in this case since the clutch fork is already offset to the passengers side. The longer slave rod will just push the fork into the side of the bellhousing.

I would start with a standard lock washer under the pivot ball, something about 2-3 mm thick.
 
Well I took another look at it and the fork was centered. So the only thing it can be now is the pedal. Im shipping my tranz out to Shepard tommorow and he said to send him the pedal so he could weld it. Thank alot for your help
 
Guys,
If your clutch fork is not in the middle then somethine else is wrong. Shimming a pivot ball is a bandaid for another problem. I run a custom act 3200 + lb pressure plate and have never shimmed a pivot ball. The only things that affect the clutch fork position are Improperly stepped flywheel and/or wrong t.out brg. This is assuming you are using an act street disc or similar setup.

Now to the real problems. Putting a longer rod in the clutch master is also a bandaid. Problem is 9/10 times the lever on the end of the clutch pedal shaft has elongated the slot and you now have sometimes over an inch of lost travel that you will NEVER get back by putting the longer rod in it. A longer rod more times than not causes more problems by pushing the clutch master cylinder piston in to far and blocking the compensating port. There is NO way to get around fixing the pedal problem. It sucks but must be done. For the everage person I recomend just getting a new pedal and lever from mitsu as well as new bushings from mitsu or Taboo. For more experienced they can be welded IF you pull the lever back to where it should be then weld it carefully as not to melt the bushings.

Other things that are a must are a stainless clutch line, properly bled system and a clutch slave and master that are in good working condition.

Hope this clears up some confusion
John Shepherd
 
I bought a new OEM Pivot Ball when I did my clutch. Is there any reason why other people don't do this? It was only a few dollars.
 
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