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Picking up 98 GSX SAFC Reliability

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99OZDSM

15+ Year Contributor
267
44
Jun 16, 2007
Virginia Beach, Virginia
I'm about to pick up a 98 GSX with about 50k miles on it.

*I've been doing research and I understand that DSMLink/ECU Flash are the most modern and arguably better options, but I'm not here to discuss that.

I want input on running this setup reliably as a Daily Driver. I understand that tuning is the most important part, but this is what I know about the car.

4G63T Stock Internals/Transmission (Except for ACT 2600 Clutch)
16G Turbo Ported and Clipped (owner doesnt know if small/big/evo3)
Greddy FMIC
Buschur Racing Upper I/C Piping
1G Blow Off Valve
Upgraded Fuel Pump (From Buschur, but owner doesn't know which one)
RC 550cc Fuel Injectors
Buschur Racing 2.5" Turboback (w/ Hi Flow Cat)
Weapon R Air Filter

Apexi SAFC I
Hallman Manual Boost Controller

EGT Gauge
Boost Gauge
A/F Gauge

I can tell this guy is an old school DSMer. From a very basic standpoint this is what he does to tune:
Based on (1) fuel octane, (2) boost level adjustment in psi, and (3) Super AFC adjustment. If you are running 100 octane unleaded gasoline, and max out the boost (23 psi), then you can adjust the AFC to lean out the air-fuel ratio to a level that keeps the exhaust gas temperatures under 900 degrees Celsius.

Right now I have the engine set for 17 psi boost and I have enriched the air-fuel ratio so it can safely and reliably run on 93 octane gasoline. He also sates that with this setup the 0-60 should be in the low 4s?

Any thoughts on if this is a reliable setup? at 17 psi with these mods. Thank you.
 
That's a very reliable setup if everything is done well.

You can pull a 3.5 second 0-60 out of the setup but in my experience it will take a 5500 rpm clutch drop (not a slip) which puts a lot of your drive train at risk. Can even twist your drive shaft. A nice slip though at 4500 would still net you a high 3 sec.
 
SAFC will do the 17psi, specially in a daily as you're not pushing it every second. I know a lot will bash it, and as you say, this is not the question. It will definitely be able to handle what's stated there. Although, if you were driving a N/T before, and you jump into this car with an ACT 2600, your left leg will definitely need to get stronger :p
 
Thanks guys for your input, it's greatly appreciated. The guy also said the car has seen 40-50 drag runs. So I would assume that it may have some transmission/drivetrain problems in the near future?

And I am completely fine making my left leg stronger. I like the feel of a harder clutch v. a soft one.
 
I'm about to pick up a 98 GSX with about 50k miles on it.

*I've been doing research and I understand that DSMLink/ECU Flash are the most modern and arguably better options, but I'm not here to discuss that.

I want input on running this setup reliably as a Daily Driver. I understand that tuning is the most important part, but this is what I know about the car.

Any thoughts on if this is a reliable setup? at 17 psi with these mods. Thank you.

These statements are kind of contradicting... . I realize you say your not here to discuss link or A flashable Ecu. But in asking if this is a reliable setup. Your opening yourself up to a discussion about why other ways of getting a tune are going to be more reliable.

Being the car is a 98 you already have a Flashable Ecu. I'd pick up a 98 gsx with that low miles in a heartbeat. But a SAFC is far from Ideal any more. The amount you can do over tricking things just leaves it as a no brainer to me. Sell the SAFC to someone on Craigslist for their honda and Pick up an Openport 2.0

Real timing control with the ability to add things like Nlts and Antilag/2 step. Just loading up the bigger maps you have a EMS that with some of the largest and highest Resolution Timing and fuel maps for ours cars... .
I'm willing to bet a couple quick changes to the ROM and the car would be a lot better off.

That's just my $0.02, As far as I'm concerned anymore there is no reason to trick our ecu's too many other options out there anymore to not use anything like a SAFC... . Sure plenty of success stories over time. But thing to remember is there were not as many options as in the past. Many people made by with stuff like this becasue it WAS the only way... .
 
My plan is to eventually get ECMLink or Flash my ECU. Right now I'm on a budget and I'm getting the car with SAFC already installed so, for now, I was wondering if the setup, as is listed above, would be a reliable setup.

I will running the car, AS IS, until I can afford to swap in a better option.

If SAFC was complete trash, then I would just pass on this car.
 
Im not sure how similar safc and maft are, but I have maft and its junk. Im soon upgrading to ecmlink soon. I have a 99 GSX with 77k miles.. Buy that GSX before somebody else, you wont regret it
 
The AFC will be fine for now. Just keep a mild a/f ratio, like around 11, and don't muck with anything else. This is assuming that a/f gauge is actually attached to a wideband o2 sensor, otherwise you'd want to keep your oem o2 sensor voltage at around .91 at the lowest. You can't run the ragged edge with an s-afc but if you err on the side of safety it works fine.

TL;DR don't let the AFC be what prevents you from getting the car.
 
Being the car is a 98 you already have a Flashable Ecu. I'd pick up a 98 gsx with that low miles in a heartbeat. But a SAFC is far from Ideal any more. The amount you can do over tricking things just leaves it as a no brainer to me. Sell the SAFC to someone on Craigslist for their honda and Pick up an Openport 2.0

Real timing control with the ability to add things like Nlts and Antilag/2 step. Just loading up the bigger maps you have a EMS that with some of the largest and highest Resolution Timing and fuel maps for ours cars... .

I agree. Sell the SAFC and get a Tactrix Cable. Yes, the SAFC can be reliable. When my brother owned my 95 GSX, it had a SAFC in it. 680 injectors, big 16g, fmic, mild cams, 6 bolt, 3" exhaust... it dyno'd at 296awhp and the car drove fine for 1000's of miles. He ran into tough times, I bought the car, pulled out the SAFC and sold it. I then put in a flashable ECU. Editing fuel maps, timing maps, turning off any CEL you want, edit idle rpm, cooling fan control, redline limit, NLTS, anti-lag, turn the factory boost gauge into a knock gauge... pretty much anything you want. It is much better. The cable is about 180 new or you can try to find a used one. Evoscan is 25-30 for datalogging. If you get 100 for the SAFC, put that plus about another hundred and you have a fully tunable setup...
 
Thanks TSIAWD, you have been extremely helpful. I will be sure to take your tips into consideration while he is showing me how to tune it.

I was skeptical because the results I found while researching SAFC was mixed. Some people said it is fine depending on goals//on the other hand, some people completely bashed it. So, I figured I would just ask.

FLASH1970, I did not know the flashable ECU was $180. I'll be sure to do some research and possibly get it once I have the money.
 
don't let the AFC be what prevents you from getting the car.

I think this sums it about up... . You really should be fine with the AFC on the car. But I would seriously Invest in a Openport 2.0 and Evoscan. Then as I said recoup some of the cost by ditching the SAFC. I'm sure once you get up to speed with the flashable Ecu and see what you can do first hand. You will be wondering how you got by on the Safc/ :thumb: Here is some info on That
 
Thanks, MY1GDSM. So many people in this forum bash on SAFC, which led me to become skeptical.

Thanks for the link, I'll be studying that thread when I go to do my research on flashing the 98 ECU.
 
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