Phantom KNock Sensor - grounded

[hose101772]

Originally posted by 1gawddsm
Oh and my father worked for MObil for 13 years and has a 148 Mensa IQ and his thoughts (and I concur) are that if any gas station ever did what you claim they did they would be commiting fraud and would be sued by every customer whos friggin motor detonated from it ! go figure....

Well I'm betting you cant name 3 cars made in the last 15 years that have a high octane demand that were built without a knock sensor.I dont think 95% of the public could tell the difference if they had infact been sold a lower octane fuel than advertised as 95% of cars on the road would not benefit from a higher octane.So if you were lets say-in any car that needs 91-93 octane,a station sells you an inferior rated fuel.How you are going to know?I dont many people who ride around with a logger in the car at all times,except dsm'ers.Its very comforting to know your "daddy" has a finger on the pulse of every unbranded gas station and gas selling store in this great land who buys fuel based on no factor but price.Go ask "daddy" what happened.He'll know,right.Nothing changed but fuel in tank and the motor went,as a matter of fact,it went the first time i really boosted it up after i left the gas station...Oh I've figured it out now that I've been "informed" the smart guy's kid.The gas lid shuting set off a harmonic imbalance that made its way to the cas and advanced my timing 10 degrees while at the same time caused a backpulse in my fuel feed line.The extra advance combined with the lack of fuel caused the detonation.Theres a difference in being smart and a smartass.You do neither well.BTW-Dont be an ass,youve shown that you do that well,I was just trying to warn everyone to not run out and start removing their K/Ss.Good to see most everyone knows better.

 

[1gawddsm]

Originally posted by hose101772


Well I'm betting you cant name 3 cars made in the last 15 years that have a high octane demand that were built without a knock sensor.I dont think 95% of the public could tell the difference if they had infact been sold a lower octane fuel than advertised as 95% of cars on the road would not benefit from a higher octane.So if you were lets say-in any car that needs 91-93 octane,a station sells you an inferior rated fuel.How you are going to know?I dont many people who ride around with a logger in the car at all times,except dsm'ers.Its very comforting to know your "daddy" has a finger on the pulse of every unbranded gas station and gas selling store in this great land who buys fuel based on no factor but price.Go ask "daddy" what happened.He'll know,right.Nothing changed but fuel in tank and the motor went,as a matter of fact,it went the first time i really boosted it up after i left the gas station...Oh I've figured it out now that I've been "informed" the smart guy's kid.The gas lid shuting set off a harmonic imbalance that made its way to the cas and advanced my timing 10 degrees while at the same time caused a backpulse in my fuel feed line.The extra advance combined with the lack of fuel caused the detonation.Theres a difference in being smart and a smartass.You do neither well.BTW-Dont be an ass,youve shown that you do that well,I was just trying to warn everyone to not run out and start removing their K/Ss.Good to see most everyone knows better.

Hey man, im just asking you a simple question which you dont seem to be able to answer, HOW DID YOU KNOW IT WAS LOWER OCTANE FUEL???? see my pocketlogger doesnt have a FUEL OCTANE sensor, i guess yours does. And why do you buy gas from shady no-brand-name gas stations ? see i stick with mobil and exxon. See if you were SMART at all and you had really figured out that you got a "bad batch of gas" you couldve sued the shit out of that gas station, oh but wait, you had NO CLUE if the gas was really a lower octane did you? so you couldnt prove shit.

 

[1gawddsm]

you think just because you blew up right after you put new gas in that it was the BAD GAS....this reminds me of when i replaced my alternator and a day later my battery died...now did i go and think oh my alternator must have created a bad batch of voltage that blew up my battery....no, i dont think so. the fact was the battery was dying also, just like your motor was probably about to blow up no matter what gas you had filled it with.

 

[1gawddsm]

and BTW if im not smart why is my car that i tuned with no knock sensor just fine and dandy for months now and yours blew sky high....hmmm i wonder whos smart.....oh thats right you are, im just the luckiest person in the world with a stock motor that just cant break.

 

[hose101772]

OK ASS-IF YOU BELIEVE THAT ALL GAS SOLD IS ALWAYS "AS LABELED" THEN YOU'RE A FOOL.THAT IS YOUR ARGUEMENT,IS'NT IT,THAT FUEL COULD NEVER BE WRONGLY LABELED.THEN I HAVE TO ASK,WHY WOULD IT MATTER WHERE I BOUGHT IT?YOU HAVE ABSOLUTELY NO CLUE!!!YOU HAVE DONE NOTHING HERE BUT SHOW YOUR ASS AND YOUR IGNORANCE.

 

[Rodman]

One thing to note here guys. Although I am all for using the knock sensor, many, many people have still blown their engines with it working in the car. When you start increasing HP with bolt ons and start messing with the air flow (afc, maf translater, ect) the knock sensor may not be enough to save the engine.

 

[newports01]

would this work on a 2nd gen?

 

[HighPsi91]

Relocating the Knock sensor to somewhere non engine related is something I have done for many years. I drove my one DSM like that for well over a year with no problems.... just more power and gas mileage. You do not need a knock sensor however you do need to know how to tune. If your air/fuel ratio is where it should be and timing is where it should be its going to be fine. I dont recommend doing this to the general DSM public because too many guys are too quick to crank up the boost knob without thinking. Also if you ever get a bad tank of gas that is bad enough to ruin your engine there should be some warning signs before it gets that far. Even without a knock sensor you can feel reduced power and usually hear signs that something isnt right. If thats the case keep your foot out of it untill you fill up again.

 

[moonstation2000]

my last car was a 86 vw scirocco that i installed a high compression 2.0 liter engine in (comes with a 1.8 low compression). never got around to installing the knock sensor. used timing to set a "safe" setting. but come summertime i could hear knock. i have a long commute and fill up 3 times a week, 2times in ny and once in pa, always at the same stations. in summertime with the ac on i started to hear knock in ny. realized after a while i only got it from ny gasoline, never in pa. needless to say i switched stations.
but i definitely believe that gas stations sometimes rip you off on premium. after all 99.99% of people will never know, only people that really tune and push their cars hard will ever notice the difference.

 

[LightningGSX]

1- Washers,different torque,etc. will only lessen the accuracy of the sensor.Reading knock has little to do with the actual voltage output of the sensor.Its more frequency,waveform,etc.And JET how do you know the voltage its "supposed" to output? Knock sensors are piezo elements which turn vibration into a small voltage.The voltage is affected by bore size,block temp,noise,resonance of the sensor, and other things.The voltage output on your EMS is probably not even close to actual knock, unless its calibrated to your engine frequency and your knock sensor resonance specifically.If you have phantom knock I'd look into electrical system noise(engine grounds, sheilding the sensor wires,etc.)
2-EGT guage will never indicated A/F or timing.EGT's are practically usless.Exhaust temps are a product of too many things(A/F,Timing,flame speed,cylinder pressure,block temps,etc.).So if you think about it there are just too many variables in the equation to yield any "useful" information from a EGT guage(Without measuring other things and some complex math).The only thing they are good for is letting you know of imminent engine damage.
If you don't believe me or if you just want to know more SAE,Bosch,NACA and alot of the OEM's have alot of published information on this.Some has to be purchased though.