peon_slayer
15+ Year Contributor
- 242
- 27
- Oct 6, 2008
-
grande prairie,
AB_Canada
Well I figured I may as well start a bit of a build thread here, It will be slow going and no real big progress will happen for about a month or two but hey I got some stuff done already that I want to keep track of haha so here it is!
this is the day we first picked up the car, we were told all it needed was the transmission redone but that's not the case.
once I got it home I started taking out the motor and trans,
since the motor had been pulled I decided to check the timing and I was surprised no valves were bent or piston contact was made as the timing was extremely off. I then cleaned the surface of the block and the head as well. I have also since cleaned the turbo up, and removed the dash so I could replace a few things under there and hopeful get rid of an awful smell in the car.
I did a bit of restoring to some old rusty parts, While putting my dash back inside the car. I couldn't get past how ugly my shifter assembly was and I am a sucker for detail so this had to be fixed.
here is a before shot of the rusty unit.
And here she is looking all fresh and new, I also re lubricated all the joints with grease and I can tell it has made a difference in the way the shifter moves. It is now a lot less notchy and more smooth.
I found a great price on a 6 bolt ported head out of a talon that was fully built with GSC Zero Tick Lifters, brand new rockers, AEM cam gears, 272 Brian Crower cams, Brian Crower springs and retainers, AEM fuel rail, ID1000cc injectors, Weldon E85 fuel -8an fuel line kit, Aeromotive FPR kit, Real HKS cam gears ( verified by HKS themselves ) , and a clear timing cover. Got all of this for a little over 1500$ Canadian and all of this is Brand new or has less then 1000 km on it. Now I know that the head wont fit the car but the parts inside the head will and I can reuse the head on my actual 6 bolt car. Now to decide weather I should run the HKS cam gears on the Evo or on my Talon haha . All the other goodies are going straight onto the Evo!
here are the pics!
upon further inspection of the Evo's rear diff, transfer case, and transmission I was able to safely say none of these were damaged at all like the owner had claimed. That should be good news but its not, this meant the car dying out any time power was applied following a metal on metal sound was not related to the drive line. So what all does that leave? Well I found the problem, about half an inch of crank walk! Block, crank, rods.... All toast!!!
So with the bad news out of the way I found myself a 99 GSX block with the revised thrust bearings so no more pesky crank walk. This motor I found has a brand eagle new crank, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, ARP main studs, and ACL race bearings. It also came with a complete gasket kit, timing belt kit, tensioner, cometic HG, oil pump cover with a full balance shaft delete kit. got everything for $1500! now all thats left is to send out my head to get re surfaced and re assembled with the cams, springs, retainers, and valves. I Disassembled the motor to re lube the bearings, upon doing this I noticed some scoring on one of the cylinder walls and managed to track it down to a cracked piston ring from poor installation. After seeing that I ordered a new ring set and re did all the end gaps.With that out of the way I then continued to Re assemble the motor but soon realized I had a bit of an issue. The previous owner had installed ARP main bolts which is great and all but I did not know what torque spec they used when they had it line honed. A bit on the fence I decided to torque it down to what ARP recommends Hoping that any reputable shop would do the same.Motor finally nearly completed with all accessories awaiting the head to come back from the machine shop I discover that a new gash had appeared on the heads mating surface on the block, still unsure how this could have happened as it has been very well stored and out of the way from anything ( so I had thought ) . Realizing that now it is the best time to kill two birds with one stone I re disassemble the entire motor for a 2nd time to have the head surface decked, and get the mains line bore honed. So as of right now I am currently waiting on the following, Ordered valve stem seals, waiting on the head from the machine shop but they cant finish until the valve seals show up, Ordered Authentic HKS SSQV to match the HKS intercooler pipes, Ordered brass heater core pipes to replace my cracked plastic ones, Waiting on the block to be re machined and for me to re assemble it again, finish debating if I should order the Cusco motor mounts or not.
here is the motor I had picked up, its out of a 99 GSX so its the 7 bolt you want to have with the revised thrust bearings.
Here I am just putting on the front case / oil pump gasket, you can also notice that it is re lubed with nice red bearing assembly lube.
new case and front main seal good to go.
different view.
Water pump on.
this is the day we first picked up the car, we were told all it needed was the transmission redone but that's not the case.
once I got it home I started taking out the motor and trans,
since the motor had been pulled I decided to check the timing and I was surprised no valves were bent or piston contact was made as the timing was extremely off. I then cleaned the surface of the block and the head as well. I have also since cleaned the turbo up, and removed the dash so I could replace a few things under there and hopeful get rid of an awful smell in the car.
I did a bit of restoring to some old rusty parts, While putting my dash back inside the car. I couldn't get past how ugly my shifter assembly was and I am a sucker for detail so this had to be fixed.
here is a before shot of the rusty unit.
And here she is looking all fresh and new, I also re lubricated all the joints with grease and I can tell it has made a difference in the way the shifter moves. It is now a lot less notchy and more smooth.
I found a great price on a 6 bolt ported head out of a talon that was fully built with GSC Zero Tick Lifters, brand new rockers, AEM cam gears, 272 Brian Crower cams, Brian Crower springs and retainers, AEM fuel rail, ID1000cc injectors, Weldon E85 fuel -8an fuel line kit, Aeromotive FPR kit, Real HKS cam gears ( verified by HKS themselves ) , and a clear timing cover. Got all of this for a little over 1500$ Canadian and all of this is Brand new or has less then 1000 km on it. Now I know that the head wont fit the car but the parts inside the head will and I can reuse the head on my actual 6 bolt car. Now to decide weather I should run the HKS cam gears on the Evo or on my Talon haha . All the other goodies are going straight onto the Evo!
here are the pics!
upon further inspection of the Evo's rear diff, transfer case, and transmission I was able to safely say none of these were damaged at all like the owner had claimed. That should be good news but its not, this meant the car dying out any time power was applied following a metal on metal sound was not related to the drive line. So what all does that leave? Well I found the problem, about half an inch of crank walk! Block, crank, rods.... All toast!!!
So with the bad news out of the way I found myself a 99 GSX block with the revised thrust bearings so no more pesky crank walk. This motor I found has a brand eagle new crank, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, ARP main studs, and ACL race bearings. It also came with a complete gasket kit, timing belt kit, tensioner, cometic HG, oil pump cover with a full balance shaft delete kit. got everything for $1500! now all thats left is to send out my head to get re surfaced and re assembled with the cams, springs, retainers, and valves. I Disassembled the motor to re lube the bearings, upon doing this I noticed some scoring on one of the cylinder walls and managed to track it down to a cracked piston ring from poor installation. After seeing that I ordered a new ring set and re did all the end gaps.With that out of the way I then continued to Re assemble the motor but soon realized I had a bit of an issue. The previous owner had installed ARP main bolts which is great and all but I did not know what torque spec they used when they had it line honed. A bit on the fence I decided to torque it down to what ARP recommends Hoping that any reputable shop would do the same.Motor finally nearly completed with all accessories awaiting the head to come back from the machine shop I discover that a new gash had appeared on the heads mating surface on the block, still unsure how this could have happened as it has been very well stored and out of the way from anything ( so I had thought ) . Realizing that now it is the best time to kill two birds with one stone I re disassemble the entire motor for a 2nd time to have the head surface decked, and get the mains line bore honed. So as of right now I am currently waiting on the following, Ordered valve stem seals, waiting on the head from the machine shop but they cant finish until the valve seals show up, Ordered Authentic HKS SSQV to match the HKS intercooler pipes, Ordered brass heater core pipes to replace my cracked plastic ones, Waiting on the block to be re machined and for me to re assemble it again, finish debating if I should order the Cusco motor mounts or not.
here is the motor I had picked up, its out of a 99 GSX so its the 7 bolt you want to have with the revised thrust bearings.
Here I am just putting on the front case / oil pump gasket, you can also notice that it is re lubed with nice red bearing assembly lube.
new case and front main seal good to go.
different view.
Water pump on.
