polverari
5+ Year Contributor
- 102
- 15
- Jan 29, 2018
-
São Paulo,
South_America
(As I always do, I apologize for any translation errors)
I have a 2g GST and I am recently having overheating problems.
Basically, the car only gets hot when I'm idling. Even with the radiator fan on (starting at 195 ºF), it keeps heating up.
What I noticed is that if I keep the car stopped, however, revs to 2000 RPM, the temperature starts to fall and returns to normal (under 194º F)
Like, if I start to ride the car, the temperature will also return to normal.
1 - The car is currently without a thermostatic valve. (I removed it, to test if it could be the problem)
2 - The water pump is relatively new (Gates), it is about two years old.
3 - The car is using coolant additive (a simple one [Paraflu] but is using)
4 - The radiator is made of aluminum, I bought it on eBay and has about two years of use, as well as the water pump
5 - Many and many tests were done on the head and all the car repairs shops told me that they did not find any abnormalities. (Compression test [150-150-150-145], tightness test, a series of tests that I will unfortunately not know how to write in English. They use a screwdriver to try to found water in cylinders, they injected compressed air into the radiator cap and cylinders, etc.)
Is there a way for me to "test that the water pump is good" without having to remove it to inspect?
I have some ideas in mind, but I would like to see your opinion, maybe I can get some valuable tips before I go for more hard and expensive solutions (remove Water Pump, remove the head, etc...)
Thanks!
I have a 2g GST and I am recently having overheating problems.
Basically, the car only gets hot when I'm idling. Even with the radiator fan on (starting at 195 ºF), it keeps heating up.
What I noticed is that if I keep the car stopped, however, revs to 2000 RPM, the temperature starts to fall and returns to normal (under 194º F)
Like, if I start to ride the car, the temperature will also return to normal.
1 - The car is currently without a thermostatic valve. (I removed it, to test if it could be the problem)
2 - The water pump is relatively new (Gates), it is about two years old.
3 - The car is using coolant additive (a simple one [Paraflu] but is using)
4 - The radiator is made of aluminum, I bought it on eBay and has about two years of use, as well as the water pump
5 - Many and many tests were done on the head and all the car repairs shops told me that they did not find any abnormalities. (Compression test [150-150-150-145], tightness test, a series of tests that I will unfortunately not know how to write in English. They use a screwdriver to try to found water in cylinders, they injected compressed air into the radiator cap and cylinders, etc.)
Is there a way for me to "test that the water pump is good" without having to remove it to inspect?
I have some ideas in mind, but I would like to see your opinion, maybe I can get some valuable tips before I go for more hard and expensive solutions (remove Water Pump, remove the head, etc...)
Thanks!