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Opinions On My Build Plan

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itbeatown

Proven Member
53
0
Apr 22, 2013
Boekel, NL, Europe
Hey guys!

Just bought a 99 GST and with help from the DSMTUNERS: Upgrade Path, this is what I came up with for my build.

INTAKE PIPE AND FILTER
BOOST GAUGE
1G BOV
BOOST CONTROLLER
EXHAUST SYSTEM
STRAIGHT PIPE
DOWN PIPE
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
O2 HOUSING
FUEL PUMP
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
TURBO T28/16G
CLUTCH
SHORT SHIFTER
LIMITED SLIP DIFF
GAGES
DATA LOGGING
ECU UPGRADES
FUEL INJECTORS 650CC
FMIC
FLYWHEEL
ROLL CAGE
SEATS

Now the goal for this car is to keep it somewhat of a DD> But also be able to enjoy it at the track on the weekends.

I have some parts en route and some installed.

Here is what I have gone with so far:

Injen Air Intake
Aftermarket Exhaust Manifold
Turbo Timer
Manual Boost Controller
1G BOV
IC Piping (just until I can afford a FMIC)
Turbo Back 2.5 HKS Exhaust

I am looking for suggestions and opinions on which brands and parts I should use for the rest of my build. I think I have decided on flashing the ECU instead of going for a DSMLink or AEM EMS.

I know this list doesnt include any handling upgrades. That isnt my main concern but it will be added into the build as I go.

Let me know what you guys think and throw your suggestions at me to point me in the right direction on this build.

Thanks!
 

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The roll cage and seats are kind of pointless. All you really need is: downpipe, catback, 16g, 2g exhaust manifolds are good so keep that, fuel pump (Walbro 255, or 190), AFPR, MBC, 1g BOV, boost gauge, and maybe a heavier clutch. You'll be making around 250whp. After that if you want more power you'll need some bigger injectors and a way to tune. Could get away with some 680's and a SAFC or just get some 1000's and tune with link v3. Then you'd be limited by that 16g around 350whp. Then slap a holset on there and make big power LOL! :thumb: good luck with your build and have fun!
 
roll cage and seats are mandatory for a lot of tracks over here in europe. so im stuck having to do it at some point.

also if anyone has any opinions on going to e85 let me know what you think of it.
 
Add some ARP head studs, NT throttle body and Evoscan would be a good tuning option. If you haven't already take care of the maintenance and might as well get some good cams to open up the power band. BTW cleeeean car.
 
Add some ARP head studs, NT throttle body and Evoscan would be a good tuning option. If you haven't already take care of the maintenance and might as well get some good cams to open up the power band. BTW cleeeean car.

Thanks, definitely was lucky to come across it.

looking into flashing the ecu and using evoscan over dsm link i think. not 100 percent sure on that decision though.
 
Can I ask what your reasoning for evoscan scan over dsm link is? Really clean car wish my body had been that clean.
 
That is a good list, should be a reliable amount of power, nothing ridiculous. However, same question, why not dsmlink? and I also agree with making sure it is up to date on all normal maintenance as well just to keep it in tip top shape. The body is immaculate
 
Dont worry folks I made sure maintainence was done on this car. I will not be that guy who let his dsm go to shit because of maintainence.

So far Ive only seen clear cut how to's for evo scan. Dont get me wrong DSMLink is a nice option, but I have never dealt with tuning before.

Maybe someone could tell me how easy or not easy to learn DSMLink.

I am open for all suggestions, whatever makes the build better.
 
Ecmlink is what you should go for. There are more supports and everything is there already. It is super easy to use. Get the full version and you can control boost with a simple solenoid.


16g is a good option but I would look for a ball bearing to take the abuse a little better and more power. You can get 50trim ball bearing, gt2876, gt3076 or gt3071r in bolt on configuration. Holset journal bearing turbos are a good choice and loved by many dsmers

Arp head studs are good idea. I would add a metal head gasket too. Composite head gasket will work but you can blow a chunk out of it if the engine detonate a bit.

LSD is a must on gst to control torque steer. It will keep you from running into the wall or hitting other people when you make more torque

Go with 1000cc for future upgrade. A good fuel pump is a must. Upgrade the fuel feed line off the fuel filter too. A nice aftermarket fuel regulator and gauge is a plus.
 
Ecuflash is just as capable and less than half the cost for him. He will be spending $160ish for the cable and the software is free. Then $25 for evoscan if he chooses to log with that.
 
Ecuflash is just as capable and less than half the cost for him. He will be spending $160ish for the cable and the software is free. Then $25 for evoscan if he chooses to log with that.

+1 he already has a 99 ecu so ecuflash will be a good inexpensive way to start out tuning. You should definitely go with bigger injectors if you plan on possibly using e85 in the future.
 
I think I am pretty set on running evoscan and flashing the ecu for now. Im sure once the build gets bigger and I start demanding more hp DSMLink would be the way to go.

I want to push out a nice amount of hp with this build and I am starting to see that the 16g is going to limit me to 350.

Any other suggestions on which route to go for turbo?

And will the 1G BOV hold the amount of boost I will need to be running to go past 350?

Is an upgraded BOV in the future?
 
first off i want to say BEAUTIFUL car....20g turbos will do 400-500 horsepower but they are prone to lag if you want more power than the 16g try a fp hta68 with a nice 264/272 or 272/272 cam setup i would also say port your stock 2g exhaust manifold and o2 housing...crush the 1g bov and it will hold 25 psi or more...but other than that i think you build list is great i would also say possibly a evo 3 intake manifold and a 1g throttle body or n/t throttle body just remember to port the intake manifold so you can take advantage of the bigger throttle bodies. you could also port and polish your head and gasket match your manifolds but i am sure that will come in time and do the arp head studs
 
Already running an aftermarket exhaust manifold, i just starting looking into the crushed bov thread, seams interesting. O2 housing is aftermarket too, due to the turbo back exhaust on it now.

What are some other turbo alternatives to the 16/20g's?

Looking for a decent turbo for a decent price if that helps.
 
I would look into the forced performance line of dsm turbo chargers such as the hta68, hta71, the hta68 is like a 16g/20g cross it spools like a 16g but power is like a 20g....the hta71 is a down ward facing turbo and is suited for 350-450 hp or just look at the classifieds on this site there are normally some good deals on used turbos
 
I would look into the forced performance line of dsm turbo chargers such as the hta68, hta71, the hta68 is like a 16g/20g cross it spools like a 16g but power is like a 20g....the hta71 is a down ward facing turbo and is suited for 350-450 hp or just look at the classifieds on this site there are normally some good deals on used turbos

+1 for marketplace
 
Add some ARP head studs, NT throttle body and Evoscan would be a good tuning option. If you haven't already take care of the maintenance and might as well get some good cams to open up the power band. BTW cleeeean car.

Good suggestions. Maybe some 264's or 272's for cams. It'll move the powerband up and being a FWD car you don't want all the power down low or you'll have trouble hooking up. EVOScan is a datalogging software. ECUFlash is for tuning. ;)

Can I ask what your reasoning for evoscan scan over dsm link is? Really clean car wish my body had been that clean.

Cheaper, just as capable, already in the car...

power, nothing ridiculous. However, same question, why not dsmlink?

DSMLink is great and has awesome user support, but 500+ versus 225 for a tuning setup...

Dont worry folks I made sure maintainence was done on this car. I will not be that guy who let his dsm go to shit because of maintainence.

So far Ive only seen clear cut how to's for evo scan. Dont get me wrong DSMLink is a nice option, but I have never dealt with tuning before.

Maybe someone could tell me how easy or not easy to learn DSMLink.

DSMLink is more user friendly and has more support. However the ECUFlash route is used by EVOs and is very similar to the flashable ECU in our cars. The software is the same. There's a member named 'recompile' on EvolutionM that made a bunch of 'how to' videos for tuning. They're even on youtube. Also, Google "Merlin's guide to ECUFlash" or something like that. It's a 170 page PDF for tuning EVO 7-9 which is very similar to our cars. Also, search "Ceddymods" on this site. There's a couple long threads about the tuning software for our cars. He also has a website with a how to tune your car section. Ceddy.us I believe is his site. Here...
ceddy.us


Ecmlink is what you should go for. There are more supports and everything is there already. It is super easy to use. Get the full version and you can control boost with a simple solenoid.

16g is a good option but I would look for a ball bearing to take the abuse a little better and more power. You can get 50trim ball bearing, gt2876, gt3076 or gt3071r in bolt on configuration. Holset journal bearing turbos are a good choice and loved by many dsmers

Arp head studs are good idea. I would add a metal head gasket too. Composite head gasket will work but you can blow a chunk out of it if the engine detonate a bit.

LSD is a must on gst to control torque steer. It will keep you from running into the wall or hitting other people when you make more torque

Go with 1000cc for future upgrade. A good fuel pump is a must. Upgrade the fuel feed line off the fuel filter too. A nice aftermarket fuel regulator and gauge is a plus.

Everything is already in his ECU he has now... I agree with looking at a Holset turbo. Maybe an HX35. It'll give you more power, be inexpensive, and have a little more lag than a 16g which will let you get out of the hole a little more before the power hits. The 16g is a great turbo and hits hard for what it is, but on a GST it might cause a lot of wheel spin. An LSD in the trans is a good idea. Also, might want to look into getting a GSX front axle. If I remember right, the GST axle goes straight from the trans to the driver's side wheel. On the GSX's, there's a carrier bearing on the axle that bolts to the block to make the axles more equal length. Maybe only the 1g FWD cars had the longer axle though. Not sure.


Ecuflash is just as capable and less than half the cost for him. He will be spending $160ish for the cable and the software is free. Then $25 for evoscan if he chooses to log with that.

The software is 5-25 bucks from Ceddy depending on which software you get. But still, pretty darn cheap.

+1 he already has a 99 ecu so ecuflash will be a good inexpensive way to start out tuning. You should definitely go with bigger injectors if you plan on possibly using e85 in the future.

I agree. If going e85, look at maybe some 1000cc injectors.

I think I am pretty set on running evoscan and flashing the ecu for now. Im sure once the build gets bigger and I start demanding more hp DSMLink would be the way to go.

I want to push out a nice amount of hp with this build and I am starting to see that the 16g is going to limit me to 350.

Any other suggestions on which route to go for turbo?

And will the 1G BOV hold the amount of boost I will need to be running to go past 350?

Is an upgraded BOV in the future?

If you buy the "Big Maps" from Ceddy's website which I think is 25 bucks, you'll have all the room you need to grow power-wise and have the ECU handle it. He also has a speed density package too. That might be 35. I'm not sure. I suggested a Holset HX35 earlier in my post. Also maybe a 20g turbo might be better. You can crush the 1g BOV or do the "Dodge mod" on it to hold more pressure.


Any input on the td05 or td06 20g's?

They're decent turbos. It will offer more power than a 16g and have more lag but being a FWD car, more lag might be a good thing so you get rolling more before the power hits.

first off i want to say BEAUTIFUL car....20g turbos will do 400-500 horsepower but they are prone to lag if you want more power than the 16g try a fp hta68 with a nice 264/272 or 272/272 cam setup i would also say port your stock 2g exhaust manifold and o2 housing...crush the 1g bov and it will hold 25 psi or more...but other than that i think you build list is great i would also say possibly a evo 3 intake manifold and a 1g throttle body or n/t throttle body just remember to port the intake manifold so you can take advantage of the bigger throttle bodies. you could also port and polish your head and gasket match your manifolds but i am sure that will come in time and do the arp head studs

I agree with the EVO3 intake. Being in Europe it hopefully won't be too hard to get. Also, you can get an intake off of an RVR. It has the same runner and plenum but a 52mm throttle body opening like the 2g cars. And the ARP head studs. Also, look into eliminating the balance shafts.

Good luck on your build.
 
Of you are keeping it a street car, be sure to just get a half cage, in the case you get into an accident, your head doesn't hit a tube.

Also, you'll want a fuel pump rewire, if that hasn't been mentioned yet.
 
For a potent, reliable, no bull street build I would suggest the following:

Small 16g turbo with ported hotside
Ported/SS O2 housing (ebay is just fine)
Ported Stock/FP Race/SS manifold
ARP Head Studs
Stock/Composite head gasket (proven good for over 500hp)
Heavy stock cams (such a G stamped cams) or mild 272 cams (BC, HKS, etc)
1000cc+ injectors (go as big as possible)
Walbro 255 pump with an AFPR (Aeromotive or Fuelab)
Decent FMIC with hard piping (Punishment, VRSF, etc)
South Bend SS/TZ clutch
Stock resurfaced flywheel (I'm not a fan of aftermarket, especially with a Kevlar clutch)
LSD with some meaty tires (sidewall is good!)

That will get you into the 300hp range, an easy 350hp with E85. Which I would highly suggest if possible. Once you get your hands dirty with tuning and whatnot, then your already geared up for a bigger turbo, manifold, etc. But I personally ran a setup just like the one I described before switching to a Holset, and I was never disappointed with the torque on command.
 
For a potent, reliable, no bull street build I would suggest the following:

Small 16g turbo with ported hotside
Ported/SS O2 housing (ebay is just fine)
Ported Stock/FP Race/SS manifold
ARP Head Studs
Stock/Composite head gasket (proven good for over 500hp)
Heavy stock cams (such a G stamped cams) or mild 272 cams (BC, HKS, etc)
1000cc+ injectors (go as big as possible)
Walbro 255 pump with an AFPR (Aeromotive or Fuelab)
Decent FMIC with hard piping (Punishment, VRSF, etc)
South Bend SS/TZ clutch
Stock resurfaced flywheel (I'm not a fan of aftermarket, especially with a Kevlar clutch)
LSD with some meaty tires (sidewall is good!)

That will get you into the 300hp range, an easy 350hp with E85. Which I would highly suggest if possible. Once you get your hands dirty with tuning and whatnot, then your already geared up for a bigger turbo, manifold, etc. But I personally ran a setup just like the one I described before switching to a Holset, and I was never disappointed with the torque on command.

right now i am sitting on turbo back exhaust, tubular exhaust manifold, swapping out for the 1g bov this weekend or next, and an injen intake.

looking into ordering the openport cable and setting up evoscan and ecu flash this weekend.

fuel pump and re wire kit are in the mail along with my mbc.

next upgrade is the turbo, im thinking going with either a 20g or a holset depending on what i cant find when the time comes.

then injectors, fmic, clutch and flywheel.

then im looking at intake, throttle body, head studs, cams.

once i get to that point i think i will be safe to go with coilovers, brake upgrade, bushings, and work on handling.

i found a nice street cage for the car that is approved for use at the track so thats a +1.
 
IMO, the turbo upgrade should be close to last, but one of the first things you figure out. If you want to run a 20g, build the setup for it and then install the 20g. Otherwise you'll be one of those guys with a massive drag racing turbo running 5psi because they can't support it properly.

As for a Holset, I would research thoroughly before going out and buying one. They're great turbos for their price, but they're not an entry-level upgrade. To give you an idea of what I mean, here's my Holset H1E (HX40) next to my Small 16g.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
i found a nice street cage for the car that is approved for use at the track so thats a +1.

Here in Europe? Link? :thumb:


Regarding the turbo, why don't you consider running an Evo III 16G?
I know you have many Evo IIIs over there in the Netherlands or at least many companies that import Evo IIIs from Great Britain.
 
I am afraid the Evo III 16g is going to limit me on the amount of horsepower i can push out.

I think they sit at about 350 max?

The 20g gives me just enough of what i need, especially with supporting mods.
 
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