Opinions and Questions on Boost Contoller

[dj_remy]

I'm looking to get the Hallman PRO Boost Controller Kit from Extreme PSI, but I'm wondering if the boost can be decreased since I running a EvoIII 16G on 14psi stock, I would like to take it down a bit till I can get injectors and such, and is it a good manual controller for the price?

lower boost yes/no?

good quality yes/no?

 

[No_Skillz]

Boost controller can only lower to what your wastegate is set at. If you are running 14 psi with no MBC, I'm assuming you have a line running from your wastegate to a boost source. In this case, 14psi is the minimum you can run.

Quality is good. Hallman is a brand name on a simple device. Can't really screw it up.

 

[dj_remy]

okay, everyone is saying to run lower than 14psi w/out other upgrades, how am i supposed to that then? is it unsafe to run 14psi w/out injectors and safc?

 

[No_Skillz]

If your wastegate arm is adjustable, you can try lengthening it to see if can get less psi out of it. Or you can unhook your wastegate arm, which would result in zero psi. Otherwise, there is no way to run less than 14psi unless you change the wastegate. Some people might say you can get away with 14psi. However, if it were my car I would simply baby it and stay out of boost until I got the necessary mods.

 

[dj_remy]

okay, i'm sorry man, i just don't have alot of experience with turbos, how can i tell if my wastegate arm is adjustable?

and i guess for now the boost controller is pointless.

 

[Rob10_99]

Where your at, its cold right? I think you will get boost cut at that level.
Boost cut isn't from boost, its from the amount of air your MAF is sending to the ECU.

But as for that controller, everyone seems to like it, its simple and easy to use.
Most people will use a sharpie to mark different settings on it, or if their under the hood and bump it.

There will be a nut and some threads on it, if you break the nut loose and disconnect the wastegate arm from it you can turn it in/out. Don't loose that clip!

 

[dj_remy]

Where your at, its cold right? I think you will get boost cut at that level.
Boost cut isn't from boost, its from the amount of air your MAF is sending to the ECU.

But as for that controller, everyone seems to like it, its simple and easy to use.
Most people will use a sharpie to mark different settings on it, or if their under the hood and bump it.

What are symptoms of boost cut?

no it's not cold right now, 78-95 during mid-day.

controller sounds good, but now i think it may be pointless.

 

[No_Skillz]

If your wastegate arm is adjustable, there will be threads on it and the end will be able to screw in and out. If it is stock, then it's just a rod and non-adjustable. The boost controller will be useless if you are trying to run LESS boost.

You should be able to get away with 14psi on an EvoIII 16G without fuel cut provided you have done a great job fixing boost leaks. However, I make no guarantee about the safety of your motor. Basically, get fuel mods soon and don't extensively boost until then.

Fuel cut feels like someone took a sharp jab at the brakes while you are doing a pull. It is basically your motor shutting off to prevent it from grenading (however it will turn right back on since you are in gear and thus being cranked).

 

[dj_remy]

okay, haven't had that yet, haven't driven without the overdrive on yet, now i wont, only got it up to 4200rpms once, sounded a little funny, but just found some holes in my bypass valve hose, and my FPR vacuum hose was completely off, and there is a leak in a vacuum hose on the intake manifold, so I'm gonna fix those, get some gauges, 255 FP and AFPR, that should solve some of my issues, than later (asap) get injectors and safc.

 

[No_Skillz]

No point in a 255lph pump with AFPR if you are just going to tune with a SAFC down the road. 190pump and 550 injectors are maxing out an AFC.

If you are planning on using DSMLink, then I would suggest 255lph, AFPR, and some monster injectors.

 

[Maranello993]

Whenever you decide to get an MBC you should definitely get the Hallman Pro RX. I have it and it is perfect. I suggest you buy DSM link not an AFC, I bought an AFC neo and I haven't installed it yet because I'm going to sell it for DSM link.

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

It sounds like it's a good time to do a boost leak test if you found as many problems as that. Go through that whole engine and check for leaks and any other problems you can find. I too would agree 14 psi on thta turbo should be ok IF everything else is working right, but throw a few boost leaks, maybe a worn FPR, and a few other potential problems in there and things get a little risky. Make sure everything is working right.

 

[dj_remy]

too right, i'm gonna give it a good look and test on Monday, thats the soonest I can get to it, but I got a new lower IC pipe from Dejon to install, the two gauges plus the bezel, and I beleive my actuator arm IS adjustable, so after the install and boost leak, I'll get it to 14psi deffinatly, but my FPR is faulty, so I'll prob get the new one anyway, 255 fp was just so i have room for more upgrades w/out doing that again.

Oh yeah, got an intake on the way, MAF adaptor and all, will that help with faster spool up, thats starting to frusterate me? (come with new vaccuum haose for the bypass valve, solve two problems at once)

 

[dj_remy]

okay, got the boost gauge and elec oil press gauge on and working, but no boost leak test....made one, my buddies letting me use his bicycle pump tomorrow, my gauge tells me I'm only boosting about 8-10 tops it looks like, but could have leaks. I'll get back with that.

My accuator arm has a bolt and threading looks to be adjustable, how do I lower or raise boost?