Hey guys its been a while since I was last on here, last time I was I had just sold my 2G and 1G and picked up a 94 Toyota Supra. Sadly things didn't work out and I eventually had to sell the Supra. However I did manage to come across an old Gem I used to maintain as a kid and when the opportunity to pick it arrived I couldn't say no. About a year ago now I received a phone call saying that the car I used to look after as a kid was either mine or it was going to the scrap yard so I arranged a trailer and saved her from the crusher.
I already had a motor I was building for another one of my cars but that one will remain a bit of a secret for a while as I want to focus on this one but with that motor I could have this car going... or so I thought. The first attempt at putting the motor together seemed to go great but upon first start up something seemed off, the car was missing real bad and smelled like fuel. I tried everything from verifying my timing was ok, trying different MAF sensors, Tried to see if it was a bad coil, went through lots of plugs and finally decided to check my compression. Usually this would have been one of my first thoughts but I had just built this motor so I was doubtful it could be the compression right? Wrong cylinder 1 had 0 psi while all others were 165 on the dot. At this point I decided it best to wait until spring to get it going as I dont have a shop and winter was right around the corner.
The following Summer began as scheduled the motor was pulled again and everything was inspected. Block and head checked for warpage, pistons pulled out to make sure it wasn't a bad ring land, and the head was given a brief look over. Next was re installation pistons got another new set of rings just to be sure, new head gasket hoping for a better seal added in with some ARP studs and in she went. Now moment of truth she fired right up but with that same miss. As I sat we tried to think what is it that we could have missed and what else could cause this. So one last time the motor came out and was disassembled, this time my focus was on the one part we didn't pay much attention to The head. We decided it was best if we disassemble it just to be sure that everything was ok, glad we did because it wasn't. Two valves both on cylinder 1 intake side were bent causing the car to lose all compression in that cylinder, it also explained the un burnt fuel I was smelling.
This time the car received new OEM valves, and 3rd gen Lifters, plus another new MLS head gasket. Now it was time to drop this motor back in the car, doubt filling my head and every other little thing I could have missed. We paused for a moment and waited then turned the key, she took her first proper breath. No more missing, no more fuel, just the proper sound. 5 years since the last time I got to hear a 4G63 come to life, and the sound my car made when it started for the first time made me beyond happy.
well thanks for reading all of this and here are a few pics and a video for you to enjoy!
Well got a small update for today, managed to score two really good deals today for the car. I wound up finding a spare auto transmission, torque converter, transfer case, axles, and output shaft for just 80$! I also found got lucky and a local was selling a 14b turbo So I grabbed that too for 140$. Not to shabby for just 220$ haha
How she looked when I got it
Almost all apart, also no snapped bolts
I have seen a lot of weird stuff in turbo's before, but I have never seen clumps of mud, rust and grass all in one housing before...
Here you can see the rust chunks I was referring to, the pic makes the blades look damaged but that is just a weird camera jedi trick cause the blades are perfect.
Ah much better!
Cleaned up the outside too, but I think I still may use my other cover instead as long as it wasn't damaged.
I painted the hotside and o2 housing with VHT Flame proof header paint, I heard good things about it so I decided to give it a chance. I dont think it looks too bad.
Well that's all for now, things will be a bit slow as the car is currently 6 hours away from me but that's not stopping me to get as much done as I possibly can while I wait. Also like to point out that this turbo is basically only going on to move the car to its new home and then the real fun begins.
Well there is a bit of an update tonight, I managed to get the car in perfect working order now. I had to change the turbo, Tcase, some coolant lines, and a few other small items. Replacing the turbo really scared me as when I took it off I discovered the old nut holding on the impeller wheel had almost completely came off, so I dodged a bullet there. Sadly when I put on the new one I ran into a few issues. The first being that the top oil line banjo bolt on the turbo snapped, luckily I had a spare. Next we swapped tcases which went very smoothly, this time I made sure it had oil in it . The only other big thing that changed was that a water line had ruptured spewing coolant everywhere. After all this was done I made sure to prime the system of oil and then checked for leaks. Finally the car is at a point where there is nothing wrong and all I need to do now is bring it to the city and start driving it. Here is a small video of it finally running properly, the clacking sound is one of the exhaust mounts rattling that will soon be fixed when I get my exhaust in the mail.
Well got another big update for the car, I met a local DSM guy who is pretty chill and has a ton of the parts I needed so we managed to make a pretty good deal on all the stuff. So I managed to score a good shape head with BC springs and retainers, brand new GSC Zero Tick lifters and BC 272 cams, with AEM Tru-Time cam gears that are brand new and the head has even got a mild port job. Along with that I also got a brand new AEM fuel rail, brand new Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors, Aeromotive FPR and a Weldon fuel filter with -6 fuel line to run from the tank all the way to the rail, plus a bunch of -an fittings to go along with it all. Not to shabby for under 1700$
All the parts are starting to almost fall into place and things for once seem like I may actually achieve my goals, So lets hope this momentum keeps up all the way to the finish line, now for some pics!
whats in the box Jimmy whats in the box?!
AEM Fuel rail
Injector Dynamics ID1000
Fuel Filter and hose
GSC Zero Tick Lifters
Cams and gears ( don't worry the cams are standing up and down now, that pic was taken the second they got out of the head. )
BC Springs and Retainers
Head pre washed
head after washed
Now if you will excuse me I need to go and stare at all my new shiny parts xD
Sadly this may be the last update this summer for the car as some things happened this past long weekend. I drove up with my box of parts all happy to work on the car and install as much as I could but first decided to take the old girl out for a quick sprint before putting on all the shiny new parts. while out in mexico I came across my cousin and his BRZ ( modded ) and even though Old Red is stock I still managed to show the BRZ who's top dog, even in the corners. while on my way back from mexico I encountered a sudden engine vibration that quickly disappeared. Moments later all my engine lights came on and there was no power and the engine was off.
We began searching for the problem and could not spot anything until I got underneath the car and noticed my crank pulley bolt hanging on by a thread... Yup my head I just managed to fix is probably trash along with all the valves and possibly my brand new Wiseco HD pistons . Now I already have a new head waiting to go on but my concern is why did the bolt come loose in the first place it was properly torqued and even had blue toctite on it. the crank it self is not stripped as I was able to re thread it into the crank no problem... Oh well I wont know until I pull the head I suppose but that wont happen for a bit I am assuming...
So until next then, remember kids always double check peoples work xD
Wow exactly one month ago since my last post haha, I finally got my Aeromotive FPR also got a clear timing cover to show off my new cam gears. Oh I also managed to snag a set of Authentic HKS cam gears out of my new Evo 1 too haha. So now I need to decide which cam gears I want to run on Old Red. Needless to say I will probably focus on my Evo for a little bit before I come back to my talon next spring as it currently sits 6.5 hours away from me. But here are the pics of the shiny new parts!
Wow been a hot minute, so figured I'd give an update on this as a lot has happened. Since the last major update the car has been fixed and I'm happy to say it is running and driving awesome. Currently the setup is a sb3076r ball bearing turbo, still has a the built bottom end, fp turbo manifold and intake tube, 2g mas air, Rx 550cc injectors, forced four smart 100.1 shift box and a old ROM flashed ecu that is about to get swapped out and is the reason for the update!
I've been hording a link stormX ecu waiting till I made my own harness for the car but the ROM flashed ecu is causing very odd afr and I do not feel comfortable long term driving it like that so in the mean time I decided to make a patch harness for the ecu. To do this I took an old friend non EPROM ecu and de soldered the header connector off the ecu. I then played connect the don'ts ant attached each wire to the specific pin to the ecu. Please note in this pic it is not finished as I want to test it before I pot the connections but this will give you all an idea of what I made . The wires that are not attached are two for if I decide to add coil on plugs, a spare signal ground wire, the 5V+ wire for the map sensor and two for a ignition relay to make the factory MPI relay still function. Should be testing it tomorrow if the weather holds . I'm pushing to have my first shake down test at the drag strip on the 29th with the current baby set up I'd be happy with a low mid 13 low 14 as it is now the car feels as fast as my EcoBoost mustang which is running a 13.6 so here's hoping I'm right. If we can get out to the track I will post results even if they are worse then expected as I'm having a hard time getting it to build boost off the line currently, only able to get about 3-5 psi max which bogs the car on launch.
Little bit of an update with the car, got the ecu put in and have a very basic " tune " in it I am no tuner but I have got it good enough that I trust the car to get me to and from work safely now. at first I was having an issue with the ecu reading that it was extremely lean and no matter how much fuel I added it would still read lean. fast forward a bit and I find out my o2 sensor was bad and the car was actually super rich already and fuel needed to be pulled. with the new sensor now working I was able to start getting a map together that would help me get the car to and from work and also to the tuner when the time comes. time for issue number 2, after a day or so of taking logs in the city I decided it was time to take her out on the highway. when I was greeted with 210 degree intake air temps. I let the car cool down fearing I most likely cooked the motor, limped it back home and tried figuring out what would cause this, now keep in mind at this point the car is on a GT3076R ball bearing dsm flanged SBR turbo and still rocking the factory side mount and piping with the 1g throttle body elbow so I figured that had to be bottle necking the air flow and causing extremely high iat.
picture of old setup
So off to the shop to get some fab work done, I had a old 2g vrsf intercooler kicking around but no piping so here are some pics of that.
so from the pics you should be able to tell that in order to make it fit nicely we had to cut the passenger side pipe and make it straight instead of a 90 bend. after that it fit pretty nicely. pls ignore the green wire its for testing purposes and will be getting removed soon.
so now that we definitely shouldnt have a iat temp issue its time to get back to getting some logs aaaaaand same issue.... 210 degree iat. Now at this point im feeling both defeated and broke , I message my buddy who installed it as he is also a tuner and got his opinion on this and this is what we found out, also in these pics the car was not running just ignition power.
this is with the iat sensor plugged in,
and this is with the iat sensor unplugged,
note how the only change is the ECT, so what that means is this whole time the issue was never IAT temps. I had mixed up IAT and ECT wires while pinning the ecu, luckily this was a super easy fix with the link ecu and I had it fixed in less then 5 minutes. With this change the car now needed to be re mapped again slightly because the sensores were never reading correctly but again not a hard task to fix.
Now finally with all that sorted out the car is starting to really come alive, I took some time the other night and put on my Mitsubishi valve cover after painting it, and removed the maf thanks to my cousin helping out and giving me a K&N filter that fit my FP intake pipe. Here is the semi final product.
So I said semi final, thats because I plan to redo the FP intake tube to match, get a black coupler for the fp intake to get rid of the blue, and get a proper exhaust and o2 housing on the car. I am also deleting the cruise control rewiring the iat, map and tps sensors and looming it nicely, adding a fan controller, a second fan as one is not cutting it, and adding a mac valve for boost control. then this revision of the car will likely be done until it is time to do a timing belt job.
Made a very small but extremely noticeable change to the car two days ago also quick warning this one is a big read despite being a quick fix, I have been having an issue with the car just straight up feeling super slow pretty much as soon as I put the new ecu in the car. Well I discovered the issue so once again its a bit of a story time! So a while ago I put in a Forced four Smart 100.1 shift box, anyone who is auto you need this piece it will change your car drastically and imo was worth every penny. In order for the box to function it needs a few things but for this story the only one that is important is the TPS sensor signal. So keep that in mind, anyways back to the story.
After getting the Link Storm X ecu into my car it was originally set up to use the stock harness completely but for some reason I had 2 sensors that just did not want to play ball and those were iat and tps, so I completely rewired those 2 sensors directly to the Link Storm ecu using a new connector for the TPS and unplugging the factory TPS. After doing this I now had a stable connection and both sensors were reading as they were supposed to so all was good. Well a month or so goes by with me driving the car and consistently feeling like the car just seemed slower then it should be with the mods it had so I decided to hook up to my shift box and see if I could figure out why its shifting so early. On one of the first pages you see there is a tab that shows you your throttle position and allows you to recalibrate it. well my TPS reading was reading about half when the car was off and had only accessory power and obviously me not touching it so I decided oh that must be the issue and recalibrate the TPS ( this was a big mistake ). So now after attempting to recalibrate my TPS I didnt notice that the value saved as full open for both 0% throttle and 100% throttle, and me being super smart leave work heading home and jump straight onto the highway. At first Everything felt amazing 1st gear for the first time was actually allowing me to rev higher then about 3000rpm before shifting and it was building boost fast. However like they say all good things must come to an end and as soon as I got on the highway heading home Issue number 2 came up, and what that issue wa my trans was no longer shifting or holding gear unless I was practically WOT. This meant I was now on the highway stuck in 2nd gear cause if I used 3rd I would easily blow past the speed limit on a highway that has high cop traffic and lots of photo radar as well now I was revving the engine really high which in turn started to have the ECT go up enough that the Link ecu started to do its job and pull fuel to tell me something was wrong and to pull over ( thank you Link ECU ) . Once I pulled over I popped the hood left the fans on and shut the car off to cool her down, and restarting the motor every few minutes to cycle the coolant. During this time I began looking at the engine truthfully looking back at it I have no idea what I was looking for its not like any of these symptoms immediately screamed engine issues but thats what I did and it lead me to see the issue. So remember how I said I rewired my TPS and unplugged the factory one and that the shift box needs a TPS signal? well I looked directly at my factory TPS plug that was just resting there and thats when it clicked that I had never re wired the new TPS wire back to the shift box. Now was the hard part I had to drive the car back to my buddies place as its a lot closer to him then for me to get home, this involved a whole lot of pulling over and cooling the car off oh and I got the car off the highway and back into the city cause I could get it in 2nd at a lower rpm in the city. Finally get to my buddies place and make the repair, and let me tell ya I think I have like 30 new grey hairs from this experience cause man that was a stressful trip back to his place trying not to over heat and manage a normal speed through town. So after the repair and recalibrating the TPS one more time on both the ecu and shift box I go and try to test the car so I do not repeat the same highway mistake as last time, and it was immediately better. just driving down his alley at a normal idle it shifted into 3rd with no issues and not revving to the moon. I get out of the residential area and get into the throttle a bit and truthfully it was a bit emotional cause for the first time since 2015 when I first got the car, I was able to feel what all the hard work between all my friends, family, and myself have put into this thing. Currently the car is just on pump gas and no meth at 17psi with the SBR GT3076R bolt on turbo its awesome even with my limited tuning knowledge. The car will be going and getting properly tuned next month but only a street tune as next summer the turbo set up will be getting changed out for my Holset HX40/35 hybrid and then sometime next year she goes onto the dyno.
sorry for the long read but I thought this was a good one!