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Oil Temperature Gauge Sender [Merged 5-7] temp mount adapter sump

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I just installed my oil temp gauge today and was wondering where the best location to mount the sensor is. I've search and everyone tells me the oil filter housing, but it might obstruct oil flow. I had it on the housing and the temp only got to about 60C(140) and the water temp will be at 80-90C. I then mounted it on the left side of the head, and temps are now 90C. So where do you get best temp reading. I was told temps will be pretty much the same through out the motor.
 
oil filter housing and no it will not effect oil flow...that is what that extra plug is for.
 
My plan is to install a oil temp and oil psi gauge. My car is a 90 AWD Talon.
The problem is finding a oil temp sender that fits in the stock oil drain plug. I know our cars have oil psi senders already but just where should I hook the wire up to is my question?
Thanks and any info would be great
T
 
You don't want to install it where the oil drain plug was. Look to the oil filter assembly, there will be a couple sender units there, one for oil pressure gauge and one for the idiot light (if 1g's are the same as 2g's, even if their not the exact same, they'll be close). There should also be a couple spare plugs in the housing. You can either get some tee's and tee into the sendors or remove a plug and install the sensor there. If I recall most people get a 3/8" npt fitting to screw into these holes.

I wasn't so luckey, I believe the actual thread is a BSP thread which is parallel. I tried a couple different 3/8" npt fittings but they only screwed in about 2 turns (using a spare plug spot) which I didn't like. I got a BSP fitting but it screwed in all the way before it got tight (being a parallel thread) which I didn't like either. I didn't feel confident trusting my oil pressure to those fittings so I ended up drilling out one of the plugs & tapping it. I installed a stainless steel reducing bushing (cant remember the male thread size but went to 1/8" npt female. Then I got the plug/bushing assembly welded and pressure tested it to 3000 psi to check for leaks. My Greddy oil pressure gauge has a 1/8" npt male thread so it just screwed into the assembly.

As far as I know you can't just unhook the wires from the factory pressure gauge and install the wires coming from the new gauge to it.
 
Is it worth buying?
Wouldn't the oil and water temperature in a healthy engine be about the same?
Will it tell me anything that water temp gauge won't?
How important is it to have it?
Thank you.
 
if you're running a high horsepower track car than yes, I think having one couldn't hurt. For the average street car it's not really neccessary. The most practical gauges are boost and oil psi (that's all I'm running on my integra). Next in line would be a nice wideband meter if you can afford it. Oil temps are cheap and you can even have a sensor on your drain plug. I think it's kind of a waste of money, once your car is pushed and everything is heat soaked there isn't much you can do about it. At least if your car leaks antifreeze and overheats your water temp gauge is made to warn you.

Plus do you really want another gauge on a pillar mount that will make your car a target for thieves? On my brothers 2nd gen DSM I opted for dash mount. Yeah 3 gauges running along the pillar look cool but keeping a low profile is a good thing. Thieves know that a good autometer gauge costs $100 so if they see them than your chances of getting broke in are increased.

Get one if you want, but definately don't bother with a AFR gauge, having one of those is a joke. They are cheap but comopletely innacurate reading off a narrow band o2 sensor (o-1volts). Im my opinion they are just a ricer light show.
 
talonproject said:
an EGt gauge is always a must 2

All an EGT will tell you is that something's off in the tune (lean or rich) but not which one. A wideband O2 is a much better option so you can see actual A/F ratio and tune accordingly.
 
andymoraitis said:
All an EGT will tell you is that something's off in the tune (lean or rich) but not which one. A wideband O2 is a much better option so you can see actual A/F ratio and tune accordingly.

Really? So if you run pig rich your egts can get hotter as well? I thought the extra fuel would cool them down.

EDIT: On further thought, that's more combustion I guess...
 
I would say put it where the factory oil sender is on the back of the block, top left hand side, if you're looking at it from underneath.It is a 3/8 npt fitting. You want to get yourself a tee fitting if you still want the stock gauge to work, but not needed as you won't get a cel light leaving it unconnected and hook them up right there. Dont forget the teflon tape so you dont leak. Hope I helped :thumb:
 
For temperature? In the pan would be best, not off a pressure sender.
Don't use Teflon tape on motors. It's for toilets and pipes full of shit. Use Permatex non-hardening.
 
I wanted to hook up my oil temp gauge for a while where is the sender/wire that you tap into for it.:confused:

Thanks
 
You got an oil pressure gauge? I would suspect you install another fitting at that location (or a t-fitting in an oil line somewhere) and install your sending unit there.
 
He was asking about an oil temp gauge, not a pressure gauge. I always thought the sender came with the gauge and you tap it on the oil pan?
 
You can put a temp sensor into a T with a pressure sensor. However, the best location is probably in the sump.
They aren't of a whole lot of value- in a healthy motor, oil and water run at very nearly the same temperature. All the more so in a DSM with a pancake oil cooler.
 
You can put a temp sensor into a T with a pressure sensor. However, the best location is probably in the sump.
They aren't of a whole lot of value- in a healthy motor, oil and water run at very nearly the same temperature. All the more so in a DSM with a pancake oil cooler.

Do they really? I honestly didnt' know that....
 
Our 420As don't have oil coolers... but besides that, Defiant's notion still holds true.
 
I was wondering how to hook up the line with the probe on the end of my oil temp gauge for my non turbo eclipse. It has a Probe on the end and i have no idea how to hook it up, im new to the gauge thing so any help would be awesome thanks guys.

:dsm: Chad:thumb:
 
I have a 3" DP so i had to run the EVO filter which is not bad cause now i only have to stock one kind of filter for the EVO and the DSM.

From what i have see the EVO runs 70C oil temps in the summer and does not get much over 55C in the winter. This temp is taken from the oil pan.

The DSM seem to get much warmer i am thinking about doing a Air cooled oil cooler but i don't want the temps too low in the winter. When i also do this i want to remote mount the oil filter but i can not find any really good kits or pictures of people doing it.

So if you have some post them up

I saw on post one of 110C oil temps off the dsm which seems a little high to me.
 
You can put a temp sensor into a T with a pressure sensor. However, the best location is probably in the sump.
They aren't of a whole lot of value- in a healthy motor, oil and water run at very nearly the same temperature. All the more so in a DSM with a pancake oil cooler.

I would have to agree, but we can not forget that for those that switch to an air cooled oil cooler, the temperatures can be quite different (coolant being higher than oil temp, or vice-versa).

Yet another good reason to switch to an air/oil cooler for track cars (probably not worth it on drag cars).

And as for 110C oil temps from the pan, I would think that to be a bit high as well. I personally never saw anything above 90C earlier this summer while at Road Atlanta for the weekend and I just have a small Setrab Air/Oil cooler mounted behind the Left Half-Moon shape with no ducting between it and the cooler (so it's fairly inefficient).
 
Would it be a good idea to hook up an oil temperature gauge into the oil return line to get an idea of how hot your turbo is getting? Would the oil in the turbo be there long enough to heat up to give sort of an indication?
 
On a water-cooled spool? The oil's temperature will be very near the coolant temperature level.
You'd not see the warning of a temperature-induced failure soon enough to be able to do anything about it.
 
On a water-cooled spool? The oil's temperature will be very near the coolant temperature level.
You'd not see the warning of a temperature-induced failure soon enough to be able to do anything about it.

How about on a ball bearing oil-cooled turbo to check the turbo timer?
 
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