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420A Oil psi reading issue

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dannydiazdsm2g

Probationary Member
4
1
Jan 24, 2021
Summerfield, Florida
Ok.. so iv been all over the forms and can't seem to pin point an answer. So I'm writing a new thread. I have a 420a with stage 2 internals. My issue is at idle and while driving I'm seeing 50 to 69 oil psi. Is this normal??? Also my afr gauge flat lined too.. am I about to blow the motor to shit. Read somewhere that it depends on the gauge itself aswell I'm running a aem oil gauge. Sorry if I'm asking a dumbass question. But I would like to know if the reading is fine or do I have something wrong. Bad ground?? Improper location?? I have my sensor installed on the back side of the block where the stock sensor was I have a T fitting for my oil feed line for my turbo aswell but don't have it installed atm.. Motor doesn't leak any oil at all. And I just replace all the seals aswell.
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can't see the video
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oil pressure seems about right
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To start, I fully admit that I have zero experience with the 420A. However...

Oil pressure is roughly proportional to engine speed. At redline the pressure will typically peak between 65 and 80 psi depending on engine and condition, and at idle most engines are typically in the 15-20 psi range, although I have seen as low as 12 psi for a healthy engine. I've never had an accurate oil pressure gauge in an Eclipse but in my old Miata I had exactly 15 psi at warm idle, somewhere around 30 psi at highway cruise, and maybe 60 psi around redline. Those numbers are probably pretty low since the engine was in rough shape, but all engines will follow that general trend due to the nature of mechanical oil pumps. If your gauge is reading over 60 psi at warm idle or if the gauge doesn't vary with RPM, you very likely have a gauge problem. The other option is way too thick of oil and or way too tight of bearing clearances. The picture @dustyboner provided shows 75 psi at 5500 RPM on what I assume is a healthy motor. Values at idle and cruise should be much lower than that.

When you say AFR gauge flatlined, do you mean that it's only showing one value? What are you seeing? Putting the sensor in the stock location is fine as long as you're feeding a narrowband signal to the ECU or have an aftermarket ECU. Making your video not private would probably help answer a lot of these questions.
 
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To start, I fully admit that I have zero experience with the 420A. However...

Fuel pressure is roughly proportional to engine speed. At redline the pressure will typically peak between 65 and 80 psi depending on engine and condition, and at idle most engines are typically in the 15-20 psi range, although I have seen as low as 12 psi for a healthy engine. I've never had an accurate oil pressure gauge in an Eclipse but in my old Miata I had exactly 15 psi at warm idle, somewhere around 30 psi at highway cruise, and maybe 60 psi around redline. Those numbers are probably pretty low since the engine was in rough shape, but all engines will follow that general trend due to the nature of mechanical oil pumps. If your gauge is reading over 60 psi at warm idle or if the gauge doesn't vary with RPM, you very likely have a gauge problem. The other option is way too thick of oil and or way too tight of bearing clearances. The picture @dustyboner provided shows 75 psi at 5500 RPM on what I assume is a healthy motor. Values at idle and cruise should be much lower than that.

When you say AFR gauge flatlined, do you mean that it's only showing one value? What are you seeing? Putting the sensor in the stock location is fine as long as you're feeding a narrowband signal to the ECU or have an aftermarket ECU. Making your video not private would probably help answer a lot of these questions.
Yeah man idk why it didn't post but it showing dots... no reading but the gauge is on. When I first installed it it was reading 14.2 to 15.7 then all of a sudden few days of driving it it stopped reading. And with the oil gauge could it be possible that it not getting a good ground? Had a buddy tell me that.
 
is your wideband a glowshift?
i installed a digital glowshift WB with the bosch LSU 4.9 Sensor for this kid. The thing was all good for a month or two. Then it kinda did the same as yours. I tried recalibrating it, resetting the controller, check all the wiring multiple times and even cut out the splices and re-soldered them in. So i figured the sensor was bad even though there was no error showing (gauge will show a [3] if the sensor is bad). Got a new one, put it in and it still didn't fix it.
That leads me to believe that the controller is a POS, it probably uses a cheaply made circuit board with components of the shitty chinese variety.

I think your oil pressure looks normal but if your worried about the ground for your pressure sensor, use a factory grounding point. There is one under the front seat and one under the stereo.
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^ That's a good point. Here is the failure mode for two of my Glowshift widebands. Obviously this is an analog gauge and it's still showing SOMETHING, but every Glowshift gauge I have ever had has failed quickly. Each of these only lasted a singular year. Glowshift replaced the controller once under warranty but refused when the second one failed. If the gauges you have are Glowshift, I'd just assume the gauges have failed and replace them.
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^ That's a good point. Here is the failure mode for two of my Glowshift widebands. Obviously this is an analog gauge and it's still showing SOMETHING, but every Glowshift gauge I have ever had has failed quickly. Each of these only lasted a singular year. Glowshift replaced the controller once under warranty but refused when the second one failed. If the gauges you have are Glowshift, I'd just assume the gauges have failed and replace them.
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all my gauges are AEM and maybe 6 months old just last night I was driving home from work an all my gauges went out read p00 then back to readings then went out again for about 5 min then came back on. idk it had me scratching my head last ight and couldn't understand the reasoning behind it and it so damn cold in kansas right now cant go work on it. going to rewire each gauge and stall the ground on factory grounding spots
 
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