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2G Oil pressure gauge (not working?)

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Ouroboros

Probationary Member
16
0
Jun 18, 2015
mesquite, Nevada
My Oil pressure gauge isnt working. When i turn the key all the way w/o starting, the needle moves to about halfway on the gauge. But when i start the car the needle drops down and doesnt read. I read through the oil pressure threads on here and cant figure out whether the issue is the gauge, sender, or wiring. Also, the wires to the sender and oil pressure switch read about 12v so it cant be a wiring issue right?(hopefully) One of the other threads mentioned briefly that when the key is turned all the way, the oil light should turn on in the cluster but mine doesnt. Could it just be the bulb/fuse? If so, whats the fuse labeled as? Ill update as i keep working on it. For now im gonna go get some new female fittings for the 2 wires, theyre kinda loose. pic - keys turned all the way

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There’s no fuse for just the oil light and idk if it’s suppose to turn on when you cycle the key so hopefully a 2g guy will chime in. You can check the bulb as it’s pretty easy to remove the cluster.

The wires to the sender and pressure switch get oil soaked and hard so inspect those first.
 
Got the cluster out, hoping theres a diagram somewhere for the lights. It seems like 2 are missing and the copper doesnt look so copper anymore. Side note - busted my cluster holder rip

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Just checked the diagram, its a bulb for the coolant and one for srs. Someone couldve used them as replacements for other lights. Which im about to try, just to see if its just bc the bulb is out or what. As for the oil gauge i still have no idea why it wont function while the cars on
 
So you have voltage at the wire to the sending unit? Next I’d check resistance across the sender. Do this with the engine off (should be low) and then engine on. If resistance increases with the engine on, the sender is functioning.
 
Switched bulbs with the check engine light, bulb works. Maybe the light just isnt supposed to come on? Pic - bulb test (pass)
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The connections on the ends of the wires for the switch and the sender are different but could this mean they were switched at somepoint? Hypothetically If the light for oil wouldve been on and i unplugged that switch wire, the switch would turn off right? So if the wires were switched wouldnt it do that with the gauge needle instead… like it is right now?
 
On one of the other threads it said the wire for the switch is supposed to be yellow and brown which it is though thats why i thought theres no way. And the connections are different. But the oil gauge hasnt worked since i bought the car
 
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Yes the connectors are different but just wanted to make sure PO didn’t accidentally switched the wires around. Both sensors work off resistance so unplugging the switch wouldn’t turn the light on now that I think about it.
 
So the resistance is 43 something which means the gauge is fine right. Can i do the first part with a multimeter instead of the test light?
Yes. Gauge is fine then. Yes you can use a mm.
 
I have it in this setting, it says theres 12v and the needle doesnt even wiggle, just stays at mid point(pic2)just like before. Contradicts the other test for resistance on the cluster. Do i have it on the wrong setting maybe(pic1) ? First time using a mm. Thinking about just replacing the harness anyways its missing the wire for the power steering anyways(pic3)

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You do need the test light there for resistance. Do you have any spare light bulbs you can use?

The wire for ps should be there. It’s probably cut or broken off. I wouldn’t replace the harness just for that but that’s up to you
 
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