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Oil light comes on with full oil???

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Fusion1984

Probationary Member
28
0
May 9, 2003
Glastonbury, Connecticut
Was wondering if someone could tell me what might be wrong with my car. My oil light came on the other day while sitting at a light, so I figured it was low. Added a quart and it came on the next day. I checked my dipstick and both times it said it was good. I have a small amount of oil in my intake, but I doesnt seem like its anything to worry about. The only thing I can think of is that I just changed my 98 gauges to 99 white face gauges and the oil pressure gauge was a little off, but Im pretty sure the gauge has nothign to do with turning the light on. If someone can help me out, that would be great. Thanx.
 
The oil light and oil pressure gauge have very little to do with oil level. While a low oil level can cause the light to come on, they're not related as much as most people think.

Typically the oil light comes on when oil pressure is too low. This can be caused by improper idle setting (too low, not enough rpm to pump sufficient oil to lubricate the engine), worn bearings (age and mileage related), a blockage in the oiling system (preventing oil drain back or debris in the oil pan clogging the pick-up tube), a faulty sending unit, or a wiring problem (such as a leaking sending unit that has saturated the sending unit wires causing them to swell, and subsequently short or create higher resistance and giving a false reading).
Doug
p.s. the oil light coming on is not an indication to add oil. You should always check the oil level first and only add enough to get the level between the full and low lines. I fill mine to the full line at oil changes and keep in the middle between services.
 
Doug99RS,
That's not like you saying "just change parts". I expected you to ask Fusion94 what the gauge reads at idle and at driving speed! Then if he answered that the gauge moves up a little at idle and 1/2 scale at 3~4k rpms, you'd write "Don't worry, change the oil light sender unit." Then you might say "WARNING: If the gauge reads very low AND the oil light is coming on - don't drive the car!, till you find a way of getting the oil pressure back up or you'll REALLY toast the engine."
Yeah, that's what you'd say! Right? :laser:--now--:dsm:
{No offense... just being cute!}
It's been a rough week!:(
 
Sarcasm I assure you.

While there are alot of things that go wrong on our cars that are the same from one car to the next, that's still no excuse to suggest parts replacement based on a symptom when there's not been any diagnostic work, like some of the stuff I mentioned earlier in this thread, is a do-it-yourselfer and at little to no cost.

I support actually fixing a car and not becoming a parts swapper.
Doug
 
Originally posted by Doug99RS
That's right. Don't do any diagnostic work. Just replace parts.
Not much to diagnose when you have a lit low-pressure light, a working pressure gauge, and no CEL. You can take the pressure-light sender out, hook it up to your Mityvac II, hook up the continuity tester and confirm it's dead, or you can gamble the $4 for a good spare part on the shelf, save the $30 in shop time, and have the new one screwed in and connected -and the job done- before you got done reading this. Of course, on your way to unscrewing the pressure sender, you might discover the wire's come adrift, saving you even more time/money/steps.:thumb:
 
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