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Oil feed from turbo to oil filter

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94EclipseGST

15+ Year Contributor
334
0
Sep 1, 2003
Des Plaines, Illinois
I want to relocate my oil line from the head. When I ordered my turbo from Slowboy, I also got the stainless steel line with it to go from the turbo to the head. Can I use this same line to run to the oil filter housing?

Thanks,
 
No, the length is different. Which turbo did you order?
 
Big 16G.

It looks like lengthwise it might reach down there, but I'm not sure of the attachment hardware.
 
well if you got a line to go to the head then it will most likely have a banjo bolt, maybe maybe not. If it is just a 90 degree 4 AN fitting and it will reach your oil filter just do that.
 
Yea, that line isnt gonna reacxh, I made that mistake ordering one from slowboy awhile back. Since then I got the real location line, but I gave the old line to my friend and he got another ss line about the same length fitted them togeather and got the other nec. fittings to run it off the oil filter housing. So theres an idea for ya.
 
Thanks for the responses guys.

I measured the line and it will reach down there. My concern is the connection part. Does it use a banjo bolt like at the head, or do I need some additional connectors?

Thanks,
Steve
 
You can do it either way banjo or a 90 degree joint I suggest a 90 degree joint. Eiehter way good luck finding a fitting to match the oil filter housing port. I suggest pulling the plug on the oil filter housing and go shopping with the line. Try to get someone to match the thread pitch and size off the plug you took out and get that size joint with a -4AN on the other end to connect to the line.
 
Mike1992 said:
You can do it either way banjo or a 90 degree joint I suggest a 90 degree joint. Eiehter way good luck finding a fitting to match the oil filter housing port. I suggest pulling the plug on the oil filter housing and go shopping with the line. Try to get someone to match the thread pitch and size off the plug you took out and get that size joint with a -4AN on the other end to connect to the line.

Actually, a 3/8 npt fitting will thread into the oil filter housing with no problem at all. I know it isnt an npt, its bpt I beleive but they are so close, it works fine. Ive been running mine that way just using teflon tape to seal the threads for almost a year and have yet to have any problems or leaks.
 
Back from the dead...

I'm swapping my s16g for a new Evo III 16g, and plan on a new stainless oil feed to the filter housing. I've read in other posts about restrictors, inline filters, etc. ... is any of this needed, or does this only apply to some of the higher performance turbos?

Can I just plug the hole in the head and run the line from the turbo to the filter housing... and be off and running?
 
I've read in other posts about restrictors, inline filters, etc. ... is any of this needed, or does this only apply to some of the higher performance turbos?
It's not about which turbo you have, it's about oil pressure. If you have removed BS or oil squirters and have not properly port out the oil pressure relief valve to keep oil pressure under control, a restrictor would be needed. Too much oil pressure/volume in the CHRA is as bad as oil starvation. As for an inline filter, the only time you'll need one is if you're running a BB turbo feeding from the head.

Can I just plug the hole in the head and run the line from the turbo to the filter housing... and be off and running?
Yes.
 
Thanks Bruce... The BS are removed, but I have no idea about the squirters or filter housing.

Should I just leave the oil feed coming off the head to be safe?
I don't see any issues with feeding from the head with MHI CHRA since that is how they came in stock form especially with BS removed (higher pressure at the head), I fed my S16G from the head for 50k miles and the turbo is still solid as a rock.

With that said, port out your oil pressure relief valve, 120psi+ under WOT is just not healthy all around.
 
I have ran the oil feed off of the head on all of my turbos using the factory feed line (MHI turbos) and never had a problem. When I installed my EVO 3 16G I considered doing the SS line from the filter housing. After talking to a local DSM engine builder who has a race team I decided not to. He said he has used oil feed from the head on many high hp DSM's and never had a problem either. I did however purchase a new oem feed line mainly to keep the warranty valid.

Although there is room for improvement on these engines I personally believe that the more you change things from the way it was intended to function the more you open the door to reliability issues. More is not always better when it comes to modifying these motors. Just my opinion. Most shops will disagree because they want to sell stuff.

BTW, I have plenty of Geritol here if you guys need some.
 
Oldman, if I were to use the oil filter housing as the feed sourse for my turbo and I have no balance shafts or squirters(karking motor) how much pressure should I see at the turbo compared to the house > turbo?

One other note on this, my oil pressure switch flickers on and off alot. Thanks for the outstanding input thus far!
 
BTW, I have plenty of Geritol here if you guys need some.
That's not what calan need, he needs them blue pills. :D

hopwoodp said:
Oldman, if I were to use the oil filter housing as the feed sourse for my turbo and I have no balance shafts or squirters(karking motor) how much pressure should I see at the turbo compared to the house > turbo?
I'm not sure what house > turbo means but with no BS and squirters, you must be seeing 140+ psi under WOT at upper RPMs, worse if you're taking your motor up to 8.5-9k like I am, nevermind what the turbo should see, you should be focusing on porting the relief valve path. :)
 
I never noticed any outrageous oil pressure issues at WOT, although I am on the stock guage. I should probably check the filter housing and see if it's already been ported huh? :)
Porting it huge will not hurt anything as long as you don't port it below the plunger, the plunger will not open until the spring pressure is overcomed. Was the BS removal a complete removal? Did you leave the front shaft in?
 
That's not what calan need, he needs them blue pills. :D

LOL ummm... nope. Definitely no problems that require little blue pills

As for my BS removal... it looks complete (previous owner did it, or had it done when they took the motor in for a rebuild). I believe everything is removed.

I'm looking over the filter housing now, and it is definitely not ported. Do you just take the thing apart (sending units, water jacket, plugs, etc) to port it and clean it up? Are there any gotchas or anything in it... like springs and check balls that go ballistic?

I'm looking it up in my service manual as we speak (type) :p

EDIT:

And how in the hell are those housings in the pics so clean? :)
 
Oldman, sorry for the misspelling, what I ment to say was oil filter housing to turbo. Thanks for the input.
 
Oldman, sorry for the misspelling, what I ment to say was oil filter housing to turbo. Thanks for the input.
When you said the switch flickers on and off, are you refering to the stock warning light? As in too low of pressure? Be careful, I was helping another member recently with low oil pressure issues depite the removal of both BS and squirters, turned out the shop forgot to block off the holes for the squiters.
 
When you said the switch flickers on and off, are you refering to the stock warning light? As in too low of pressure? Be careful, I was helping another member recently with low oil pressure issues depite the removal of both BS and squirters, turned out the shop forgot to block off the holes for the squiters.


Yes, it is the stock warning light. For some reason my oil pressure gauge won't work. I checked the wiring and its all hooked up. The motor is from Karking and is an N/T block. And the balance shafts are removed and the bearings are set to block off the oil pressure.
 
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