Official Bench Racing Thread (how fast is my car/how much HP can I expect)

[bastarddsm]

Much more than 500whp and it's life expanacy will go down. What thickness are your pins? That is a big limiting point

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Ill dig through my receipts. I didn't build the motor

21mm i believe

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20196&cat=1368&page=1

Thats what ive got.

The specs on the pin wall thickness arent specified like the wisecos are.

Btw happy easter everyone!

 

[11Banger]

Those H-Beams might be a weak spot also... Should have gone with I-Beams IMO

 

[5150DSM]

The physical limits of your set-up are going to be defined by operating condition more than anything. We've all seen the stock bottom end, 500+hp monsters hold together for pass after pass, beyond any reasonable expectation. Also seen fully forged set-ups go far beyond their ratings or go up in smoke at much lower power levels. Hell, I just smoked a set of Manley pistons at less than 400 whp. Your tune will govern your results, if it's tuned well and moderately safely, you should be able to push the hell out of the set-up; one tuning mistake and the whole thing will puff into non-existence. All that being said, the physical weak point I see in your set-up is the h-beams with the 21mm wrist pin, if anything is going to break before anything else, that's what I figure it would be.

 

[phunny]

I personally don't know anyone with that exact setup. What make you choose it? But I'd say you fine with a mid 10 second pass, are you going to drop weight for the 9 second run?

A 9 second stock bottom end is going to be a gutted pos so I wouldn't even use that as a comparison, we all know how much strain weight puts on an engine.

 

[BrokenTsi]

I used to have almost exactly your same setup, but with eagle H beam rods, and I had that engine for 20k miles and trapped 133+ consistently on a 30r @ 33psi.

A customer of mine, has scat/mahle 6 bolt with a 6262 and has been running big boost for years. Never been to the track, but I think it will easily do 135mph as it sits.

My last engine had Mahle pistons on Manley I-beams with a .0035 PTW and I ran 40+psi for 3 years without any issues. (143mph trap speeds) I sold that engine to build a new one.

I tuned Will Stanton's bone stock 7 bolt on the hx40 @ 38psi, and it made 30-40 passes at that boost level. The stock 7 bolt rod finally broke in half, but the car did go 10.3 @ 137mph on that turbo set up.

I would say, that you are just fine for your goal of 9.90's.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

^ thats what i wanted to hear! Sorry mods or posting in the wrong section.
I do plan to put car on a diet
If you wanna help tune me i wouldent refuse

 

[Boosted DSM 32]

Figured I'd jump in on this thread and see what you guys think my car will down the track and what itll trap at with a good run..

Mods list :

Dsmlink v3 full
Speed density
PTE 880's
Rewired 255
4" FMIC
Holset HX-35 8 blade with twin scroll t3 hotside and internal gate
Buscher Stage 5 clutch
3" turbo back
Stock rebuilt 6 bolt block and head

I have alot of track expierience and would like to see a very low 12 to a 11.90 at the track with a clean run on pump gas what do you guys think she'll run?

 

[2stepmonster]

Hey there, I was just wondering if anyone knows a formula to figure out power to weight ratios. I am heading to the track this weekend to try to shut the mouth of someone who has been talking a lot of crap on my car and other DSMs.

I did some digging and found out more about his car. It is a 91 integra. He is at about 10 hp short to my car. And about 12 ft lbs less torque than mine. But my car weighs about 150lbs more.

So its a really close call. He has a 91 integra 1.8 litre non vtec and I have of course the 420a. We both have same mods just about. So excluding driving conditions, traction, and shifting, who would have the advantage here?

Thanks guys

 

[TSiAWD666]

1/4 mile calculators say he has the advantage on you but close enough that the drivers will be all the difference. Under a tenth of a second difference based on your guesstimates.

 

[90_1geclipse]

take it to the track

 

[bluehaze420a]

Its all about the lanch and not missing gears when your evenly matched. 150lbs wont make that much of a difference or just take your hood and seats out .

 

[CountryDSM]

If you are taking it to the track then right before you could do some weight reduction by taking out the passenger seat, backseat, and spare tire and bring another friend and temporarily store them in there for the day at the track Just food for thought it might help make up for any driver mistake.

EDIT: Just realized you have the 4 speed automatic, that might make it a bit harder.

 

[GSXtra]

Wouldn't it have a lot to do with who hits Max power first? I mean if the Teg takes till 6k Rpm to reach max hp and the dsm takes 5500 rpm to reach max power then you will be able to shift earlier and hit max power earlier on the next shift. I raced a Cadillac cts with my audi s4 and even though he had more hp my car hit max hp at 5500 compared to his 6500 and I won cause I shifted earlier

 

[awd_92laser]

Your gona loose bro sorry to say. But yes you have a dodge neon motor in a fat pig of a car man... Good luck.

 

[2stepmonster]

Its all about the lanch and not missing gears when your evenly matched. 150lbs wont make that much of a difference or just take your hood and seats out .

Lol I thought about doing that

If you are taking it to the track then right before you could do some weight reduction by taking out the passenger seat, backseat, and spare tire and bring another friend and temporarily store them in there for the day at the track Just food for thought it might help make up for any driver mistake.

EDIT: Just realized you have the 4 speed automatic, that might make it a bit harder.

Yeah sadly I do :/ and yeah because the launch isn't too good but halfway through first she moves, second goes pretty good, and about halfway through third it starts to struggle which isn't good

Wouldn't it have a lot to do with who hits Max power first? I mean if the Teg takes till 6k Rpm to reach max hp and the dsm takes 5500 rpm to reach max power then you will be able to shift earlier and hit max power earlier on the next shift. I raced a Cadillac cts with my audi s4 and even though he had more hp my car hit max hp at 5500 compared to his 6500 and I won cause I shifted earlier

Yes I agree with you on that but my car is an auto and it hits max around 6k and shifts around 65 unless I manually shift it

Your gona loose bro sorry to say. But yes you have a dodge neon motor in a fat pig of a car man... Good luck.

I agree there but his teg has a 1.8 non vtec. Its nothing special over a neon motor.

 

[2stepmonster]

Just so everybody knows i did beat him. DSM or nothin!:thumbsup:
Thanks guys

 

[99ECLIPSEGSXDSM]

Time slip?

 

[2of9]

Well, this thread is quite entertaining. So, here I go with my list and expectations:

96 Eclipse GSX
- ported 2g mani
- o2 dp with open wastegate pipe (ebay)
- big 16g
- 3" exhaust, no cat
- 650s
- intake
- mbc set at 12psi
- fmic
- ac removed

I'd be shooting for low 14s. as for power...I don't quite know. I would ponder to say between 215-230 depending on the dyno. probably even 205awhp

 

[Chipper308]

okay, so i have a box in front of me with a turboxs bov, dual stage turboxs MBC, boost gauge(and some rain-x and stuff) my car has basic upgrades 3' turbo back exhaust, 3g revised lifters, suspension work. and a stage 2-3 tmz trans. i dont wanna deal with installing all this and have the T25 take a shit in 2 weeks bcuz it sucks....and i dont have the money right now to get a dsmlink. but i do have the money o pickup a used turbo(small 16g prefered or even a 14b/t-28) now without tuning software what am i capable of here? id like to hit the 300-325hp mark without tuning, but safely, if thats not a good idea or not possible then fine, ill take whatever i can get, but none the less id like to move forward and work on my car as this is all a learning experience for me. so my questons are this

What kind of turbo should i look into for a DD with a good price on it that would involve the least ammount of downtime easiest install and what kind of boost can i run thru it and how much HP can i be expecting? also id like to keep the stock injectors for now if at all possible

 

[96awd16g]

most everyone is going to say a 16g and run it at wastegate pressure or a max of 14. If you were to at least log, you could possibly push it alittle further.

and realistically, 300hp is not going to happen, safely, with stock injectors and no tuning.

 

[schalk35]

You need to something to compensate airflow with fuel. If not you will blow the engine. Dont count on getting 300 without some tuning. Maybe 250, I would go with a 16g, and 550's. Keep it at 15 lbs and be happy. I would advise at the very least to get a WB.

 

[Chipper308]

Okay so small 16, great awesome. thats not a direct fit is it? whats the most cost effective way to get that to cooperate with waht i have now? putting 550s in it with the stock tune will have it run like crap tho wont it? and ordering a wideband now, iv got a double gauge pod for the w/b, so its been planned

 

[96awd16g]

You need to something to compensate airflow with fuel. If not you will blow the engine. Dont count on getting 300 without some tuning. Maybe 250, I would go with a 16g, and 550's. Keep it at 15 lbs and be happy. I would advise at the very least to get a WB.

Why would you recommend 550's without tuning? Unless you want a pig rich dog, stick with stock injectors, if not tuning, and keep boost below 15.

IMO for the price of a wb, you might as well log knock and injector duty cycles. If you log and slowly turn boost up, it is a whole lot safer than watching a wb, while WOT hoping it doesn't go lean. Afr's with a stock tune will be fine, until you start running out of injector and/or pump, which duty cycle is going to tell you before afr's do.

A 16g will physically bolt on, but you will need water and oil lines, along with a j pipe. Cheapest solution is buy a 16g install kit that comes with everything. You will not find a cheaper alternative other than a t28.

 

[Chipper308]

Why would you recommend 550's without tuning? Unless you want a pig rich dog, stick with stock injectors, if not tuning, and keep boost below 15.

IMO for the price of a wb, you might as well log knock and injector duty cycles. If you log and slowly turn boost up, it is a whole lot safer than watching a wb, while WOT hoping it doesn't go lean. Afr's with a stock tune will be fine, until you start running out of injector and/or pump, which duty cycle is going to tell you before afr's do.

A 16g will physically bolt on, but you will need water and oil lines, along with a j pipe. Cheapest solution is buy a 16g install kit that comes with everything. You will not find a cheaper alternative other than a t28.

thanks for the 550's input, thats what i was thinking how would these 2 links go on my setup? im thinking this should cover everything:
kit:
TD05 16g 20g J Pipe Oil Feed Line Turbo Install Kit 90 99 Eclipse Talon DSM 4g63 | eBay

Turbo:
Practically new Small 16g - DSM Classifieds

so just find a cheap logger? im assuming there is a tech article on here to self tech yourself what to look for while logging?