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Official: 2Gb Front bumper thread

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KeelesKustome

15+ Year Contributor
882
15
Dec 29, 2007
Waverly, Tennessee
due to posting this in the newbie area, and being colded i have moved it here.

decided to shave the fogligt also enlarged the intercooler mouth opening. holes with lord fusor, the same thing we repair ripped bumpers with.
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i was going to shave the emblem, but aftermarket bumpers come without it and i didn't want it to look like a non oem bumper, so i decided to keep it.
a lil more progress I chaned the opening by cuting it 2" higher than it was for more of a mouth opening. I've started wetsanding it here.

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I should have taken more pictures along the way , brain fart on my part.
Things i used:
1.142 lord fusor extreme bumper repair

2. mesh tape acutally i used drywall tape, it's the same stuff.(first page discribes the usage)

3. 80 grit sand paper on a orbital DA to cut down the new material.

4. poly flex bumper repair, it's similar to metal glaze but it's designed to be flexible for bumpers,(this was used to further asure the contore in the shave hole was correct.
made by Evercoat, poly flex, flexible polyester glazing putty. part #100411

5. die grinder cut off wheel to cut the opening for th IC bigger.

6. fine line tape to measure out and put the curve back where you want it at the top of the bumper. lay the tape on the bumper with the new curves , make sure it's porportional and then cut it precisely on your tape line with the cut off wheel.

7. an angle grinder with 50 grit disk, this is used to put the oem curve back in the bumper as the cut off wheel cannot, you'll grind it down slowly contoring the new part to the tape line you had laid.

8. 180 grit on a orbital DA, use this to finish out your poly glaze and use it to make sure your new cut out is smooth and free of any jaged edges,, fix any other bad spots on the bumoper and prime,,,reprime after wetsanding if nesicarry, then paint. i used the 3 step (the correct way) single stage on the bumper, as it's a front bumper and will have minor damage done to it as a dd.

some paint faqs i've posted are here at this link.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/appearance-interior-exterior/72599-dying-failing-clear-coat-merged-7-8-cote-clearcoat-paint-dead-flaking-peeling-rot-5.html#post152061951

on page 5 of that thread.

I am a automotive paint technician for my job, and have been for 8 years,

i did not buy the bumper,,, it's the oem on my car,
I did not cut out anything to fill the foglight hole, i used normal masking tape to tape the front of th bumper to the conture i wanted it,

I then laid my drywall tape in that from the backside, 2 layers,
i then used the LordFusor 142 Extreme Bumper repair and spread it in pushing it through the mesh tape, while at the same time using 7-8 more layers of tape into it similar to laying fiberglass, your just using i different product,

this stuff will go off fairly quickly in 80 degrees or hotter. you then flip the bumper to the front side and remove your masking tape, and sand it down so it can have something to adhere to, if need be to make the round contour even more pronounced, you may use a lil more of 142 on it, if you taped it off correctly a lil bit of poly-flex is all you should need.

you do not cut and splice other bumper pieces into the process because the more edges you have, the more week spots you will actually creat and it will more than likely crack out. this is why you remove the entire foglight assemble and fill the larger hole.

I actually used spies hecker paint made by dupount, it's just their european line.

ohh yeah i haven't used he polyflex with just the tape, i am sure it would make a pretty strong bond, but it has never been taught in any of my I-Car classes, so that tells me it's probly not recomended, although , that does not mean it will not work, if you do it let us know the results.


few up to date photos with the front bumper just sitting up their.

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Nice work! Looks real nice should do a write-up!:thumb::rocks:
 
looks good, my cutouts are for intercooler piping and the shallowness of my center cut out is, so their is plenty of room for my ets intercooler as well. that thing is friggin thick,
 
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I did something simular to mine were I blended, flowed the opening up to the FMIC with FG. How did you or what materials did you use?
The problem i'm now having is that everytime I remove the bumper cover the ABS plastic flexs and the FG doesn't so now I have paint cracks and the FG has seperated in some areas due to this constant flexing. And yes I used the flex addative for the paint. Someone needs to make a FG 2g stock front bumper cover. Just thought I'd ask and bring that up.
 
It's going to look nasty, with a nice big FMIC.
 
Try using some fiberglass on the inside of the bumper so it dosen't flex all over the place and ruin the paint-It worked for me
 
Don't use fibreglass on plastic bumpers. Go to an autobody supply store and pick up some proper plastic repair adhesive. As far as adding extra plastic, the easiest way is to find a used bumper at a junkyard made of the same type of plastic.
 
i hadn't had this problem, but beefing it up could actually turn bad for what your trying to achive.

thicker isn't always better.

you may need to trim your bumper to better fit around the intercooler etc.... like i have done, so that it doesn't make your bumper stretch or flex,
you should have a perfect slide on fit, rather than needing 2 people to pull it and hold it on while bolting it up..
it takes time to get the cutouts perfect, but it's worth not damaging your paint.


as for fiberglass on polyurathane, thats just idiotic. some 142 lord fusor will make an idestructable bond.

as for using flex additive, it's not nesicarry.... without bickering , I am a professional painter for a living, and if you still feel the urge, read this first. a post i made on this site as well but can't seem to find it

i talk about the flex additives, in there with all the rest.
paint faq's - CB7Tuner Forums
 
I wanna shave the fog light hole on my new front bumper but doing it without the stock fog covers IDK how I'd pull off the proper bubble... Any ideas...

I already decided to ditch the oem fogs for some Projector HID Fogs in the side holes, hidden.
 
I'd buy one from you.... honestly, we've asked for an aftermarket bumper like that from vendors before, and no one has every answered.
 
I was thinking removing some of the front bumper elements as well so that thread is pretty welcome to me :) Looking forward to see the painted and installed bumper. I think it will look awesome. The only concern I am having is will the sealing of the fog light openings decrease the cooling efficency a bit?
 
to clear a few things up.

the fog lights were completely shaved. the housing for the lights were removed as well, as you would not be able to create a permanant bond without doing so, thus it would cause cracking. I'll take a few photos of the backside to show you.

as for paint, i haven't time to do so yet. i have a little more work that sill needs to be done, and work has had me swamped lately, so theirs been no spare time to work on my car. To buisy painting everyone elses.

and as for the cooling aspect, i truely doubt a hole, filled with a foglight housing, is contributing very much to the cooling of the engine.
 
I would think, and I am no engineer that closing those openings would put more pressure on the main opening and the side openings, thus pushing more air through "4" openings rather than "6"
 
I agree, SO if the same amount of air/pressure is hitting the front of the car with 2 less passages to go, I would think more air would be forced through the front and side openings. If path of least resistance is the issue then it would remain the same as before as the air could still go "around" the car if it wanted to.

Someone with a better understanding of aero chime in. I am interested in a "professional" point of view.
 
Air follows the path of least resistance.

So as long as the bumper is tight/sealed to the FMIC and the FMIC is sealed to the rad, there will be no cooling issues.
I'd like to do this with my 2Gb Talon bumper one day.
 
I had this rant on another thread and the above statements are correct that air will follow the path of least resistance. The frontal area of the bumper is a high pressure as in air pressure. For example that pressure is used to push down on front splitters for grip.
One of the better ways for cooling is to tilt the radiator down, have a dam underneath the front to push the air up and though the radiator out a large opening in the hood to vent. This way your creating a low/high pressure areas to create suction, down force. Like an aircraft wing, but in reverse.
The air, having no place to go but through the coolers or side ducts, air will flow up, down, over or around. And having a smooth transition such as the shaved F/L area will help in directing the air flow. Any type of turbulant air flow with just add to drag. Look at NASCAR on qualifing day. They tape up damn near every hole, crease, and joint that they legally can to direct air over rather that through the car. No drag, more speed.

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Modifying-UnderCar-Airflow-Part-1/A_2455/article.html
http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Modifying-UnderCar-Airflow-Part-2/A_2456/article.html
http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-1007-honda-s2000-tuning/index.html
http://physics.info/drag/
http://www.modified.com/tech/0607_sccp_automotive_aerodynamics_part_1/index.html
http://www.modified.com/tech/0610sccp_automotive_aerodynamics_part_2/index.html
 
i agree with you completely. i would love to have a wind tunnel to really play with the idea.
 
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